WillK

Yes, divide camp trail is an enjoyable way to access both the adams glacier and the north cleaver routes. The trail meanders along the south side of adams creek until hitting the pct. Crossing adams creek can be interesting, but generally speaking the higher you go the easier it gets. We did a rising traverse after the creek crossing cross county in open terrain, to gain the tarn at 7500. I love that side of the mountain....more goats than people.

Got turned around 2 weeks ago at upper schrund on Jeff Park Glacier...upper wall (vertical, abt 20') of the crack was too soft and melting to climb (in our humble opinions).

For those interested...no skiing to be had as of today on St Helens (luckily, I was hoofin it). But, good "climbing" conditions (it is a hike). The scree and gravel was frozen in place on the upper 1500, making for great footing on the way up and less than comfortable down-walking. Very little snow on the route/no pons needed. Made for fast conditions: 2.5 up, 1.5 down from the trailhead to the rim and back....Hopefully the coming storms will dump some fun stuff on the mtns for you all...

Was up the DC yesterday. Leave early. Route traverses a bit east towards Emmons shoulder. Few obstacles. Good snow conditions overall.

Nice run dude. You passed my wife and I on the trail at about noon (about 12 miles from the TH). We do a lot of ultras and admire your pursuits on this site. Way to go! What a great day to be up on Olympus....

This January on Hood's southside we saw a dude without crampons or ice axe make the summit. He used rocks that he dug up in the Hot Rocks by the Hogsback as "picks" to help him ascend the chute. He carried a parachute and was planning on base jumping off the top. (This is not a joke). Once on top, he decided that the base jump was not worth it, and enlisted a couple strangers to lower him down the chute with their rope that had been brought in case of emergency. Not cool. This was the same day that the guy fell in the Pearly Gates and broke an ankle. Hood attracts all sorts of folk.

Trip: Mount Jefferson - West Rib Date: 6/28/2009 Trip Report: Quick update on a fine route on Jeff. On Saturday evening we hiked 3.5 hours from Pamelia Lake TH (3000')to high camp at 7500' via Milk Creek canyon (still mostly full of snow, but a few waterfall "death traps" must be negotiated). Sweet sunset on the lower West Rib. Climbing by 0600 Sunday morning. Route was mostly snow, with a few scree patches and choss piles that had to be skirted. 2 extended sections of about 45 degree snow that was firm and fun. Gained the west side of the north horn and scrambled up a 4th class face to tjavascript:void(0)he standard "ramp" leading to the summit. Placed 2 pickets and clipped a piton en route to the top. Pinnacle "ramp" was a mix of fairly steep rock, snow, and ice. Rapped off the summit and instead of downclimbing the class 4 face we traversed snow towards the north ridge and then under the west side of the pinnacle. Back to high camp with little difficulties by 1500. 2.5 hour hike back to the car. Crystal clear skies, beautiful mountain, great team of 5 from Corvallis. Have a great summer, all! Gear Notes: 50 meter rope, used 2 pickets, horn on summit is wrapped nicely. Second tool might have been nice. Approach Notes: Milk Creek canyon is melting quickly. It will be very difficult to hike the creek once the waterfalls fully open.

Did the traverse last October 1. The Red Line on the North Ridge of SS is the most direct. The screefest descent from Middle leads directly to a great water source in a basin between Middle and South. This is convenient as it makes carrying lots of fluid unnecessary. From there, the obvious/fastest/ most reasonable(?) line is your red line: straight up the treed slopes below and then onto the North Ridge proper. Very direct. As for gear: Obviously, lugging around a helmet is a pain, but, as you know, it's needed here.

Psychobikere: I hiked up the West Rib from Pamelia Lake via the Milk Creek "snowfinger" last Monday May 25-26 and camped about 8k. Didn't go for the summit as I was solo. The Pinnacle appeared to be completely rimed over. Talked with a group that turned around at Red Saddle (via SW Ridge via Pamelia) due to the rime (and deciding to forego the Traverse). I'd love to hear about your trip...good luck. Maybe the Pinnacle will be doable for you...Check with the Detroit Ranger Station for the latest road conditions. I did not encounter snow until Pamelia Lake itself.

We climbed with Kevin Skilling from Corvallis High. You should come along on the next trip...

The ramp up to the Queen's Chair was nice and firm. The chair itself was a great place to relax, enjoy the warming sun, and gear up for the final push. We found perfect snow conditions from the QC up to and across the summit ridge. Go get it.

Trip: Hood - Leutholds Couloir Date: 3/12/2009 Trip Report: A bit late on the report...But, for those interested in a fine alternative to the crowds on SS of Hood...Last Thursday, 3/12, 3 of us from Corvallis climbed Leutholds. Left T-Line at 2:45, summit at 12:15, back to the car at 3:15 (12.5 hrs RT). Great snow conditions up the Palmer and across to Illumination Saddle. Bright, full moon. Easy to drop down onto the Reid, then not so easy traversing waist deep snow over to Yocum. Very slow going. Fairly tiring. The deep snow continued until almost to the Hourglass, where we finally found firm snow/some ice. Very little icefall - we climbed fairly early and it was cold. Queen's Chair was great - fine views/no wind/first direct sunlight. Perfect snow up to the summit ridge - no problem traversing to the true summit. Watch for north side cornices. Snow was a bit soft coming down the Old Chute - went straight to Hot Rocks, up to the Hogsback, and then down to the Palmer. In all, a great route. Saw nobody until we got back to the Miracle Mile on the descent. Start early, climb when it is cold. Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear/rope + pickets (which we didn't use). 2nd tool very optional. The couloir itself was not particularly steep or icy. Wear a helmet. Approach Notes: Boring slog up Palmer. Typical wind blown fare to Illumination Saddle. Then deep snow to the couloir. Don't waste your time with snowshoes.