mitch334

I lost my BC #4 cam at Index in the areas of Rogers Corner, Breakfast of Champions, or Morning Star. It is marked with pink spray paint at the bottom of the stem and I believe it has a trango biner on it. PM or 701-367-9517 Thanks!

Sold.

Bump for price update.

Brand New, Never Used Scarpa Rebel Ultra GTX Mountaineering Boots. Size: 43 Price: $450 $425 Features: * automatic and semi-automatic crampon-compatible. * stretch Gore-Tex keeps your feet warm and dry * extremely light with a flexible cuff * innovative tongue and gaiter system reduces bulk and provides incredible fit and protection Weight: 1/2 pair: 1 lb 9 oz / 710 g (weight based on size 42) Ref. http://www.scarpa.com/scarpa/rebel-ultra-gtx

Nice TR Aaron. I love this route! Say, I found a small blue OR stuff sack on the scramble to the base of the route. PM me if this is yours, and I will find a way to get it back to you.

SOLD.

Nice work guys! It was a great day to get out and climb.

I am looking for recent photos / condition updates for Black Peak, NE Ridge. I have not made it out to the WA Pass area this year. Thanks!

Nice work Matt!

Arcteryx Alpha SV Jacket Size / Color: Men's Medium / Blue Ray Cascade Climbers Price: $550 Condition: New with tags A fortress for extreme mountain conditions; ideal for climbing and alpinism. Our most durable waterproof shell built with GORE-TEX® Pro Shell. Features Material: 489N Gore-Tex Pro Shell 3L Insulation: Fabric Waterproof Rating: guaranteed waterproof Fabric Breathability Rating: guaranteed breathable Fit: standard Center Back Length: (medium) 30 in Length: Venting: underarm zips Powder Skirt: no Pockets: (external) 2 front, 1 sleeve, (internal) 2 Seams: fully taped Wrist Gaiters: Hood: yes Liner-Compatible: yes Weight: Recommended Use: taking on the most severe weather Manufacturer Warranty: lifetime Ref: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056LT9N2 Ref: http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Alpha-SV-Jacket

Nice work guys!

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arête Date: 8/7/2011 Trip Report: Short Version: Brandon, Aaron, John, and I climbed Serpentine Arete for a BOEALPS ICC alpine outing. The route is fun and has some great pitches low in the route; however, I am not sure it outweighs the amount of risk due to loose rock; especially if you are behind a party. The bulk of our loose rock issues were during the simul-climbing below the 5.7 variation to the right side of the summit block. I think if we stayed left (closer to the arête) less loose rock and route finding would be less of an issue. A very sincere apology to the party below us for any rockfall we sent your way. Some came from above us (without warning) with very near misses for all 4 of us. I’d say most of it was definitely our fault. The worst was a large ledge they blew out from under my feet while simul-climbing just below the last 5.7 variation pitch. Saturday: • 04:15 Left Stuart Lake TH • 06:00 Colchuck Lake • 08:30 Start Route • 13:30 Top of main pitches before simul-climbing • 16:30 Lost below 5.7 variation (around pitch 10) • 20:30 Summit • 00:00 Colchuck Lake • 02:15 Back at Stuart Lake TH Detailed Version: We climbed Serpentine Arete car-to-car in 22 hours (see timeline). It's not an impressive time at all (some say EPIC). We planned to finish the route car-to-car in 15 to 17 hours. Our long route time is due some confusion at pitch 1, a sprained ankle around pitch 8, and at pitch 12 we spent a long time figuring out where the route went (we were far right under the 5.7 summit variation). We were climbing by 08:30 at the base of the rock seen in Alpine Dave’s trip report. We decided against the 5.7 crack in the corner and decided to simul-climb up and left to the ramp between pitch 1 and 2. Bad idea. The leader headed too far left and was on some unprotectable terrain just below the pitch 1 and was uneasy simul-climbing this. Meanwhile, a baseball sized rock from above came whizzing by his head. If I did it again, I’d pitch this out. Pitch 3 went very smoothly aside from my near encounter with a small rock. At the crux (pitch 4) we choose the far right crack. This looked easier and more protectable than the standard middle crack. Pitch 5 went well. I got to the piton and headed left up to a boulderly dihedral (well, with a pack anyway). This led into a nice belay spot nested into large flake rocks. Pitch 6 started just to the right and up the ridge. From here on out (Pitch 7-14) the route follows benches of ledges filled with lots of loose rock and section of low-fifth class pitches. We simul-climbed almost all of this rock. When in doubt here we tended right. I think we eventually ended up too far right to the point we were below the 5.7 variation pitch that Fred Beckey talks about. It was difficult to tell this was the “route” and wasted a lot of time in this area. Rap slings, lots of loose rock, and little good pro was not comforting. We eventually pressed on knowing it was getting late. Just below the last pitch, a very large ledge blew out from under my feet. My heart sank knowing people were below us. I was very fortunate that they were not below us at this time. There are at least 2 more very large boulders that will let loose anytime. The 5.7 variation had great rock just sucked to get to it. We summited at 20:30. Now for the slog home in the dark… More Pictures areHERE. Dragontail Base of the route for us started on the hight in the snow. The money pitch. Pitch 5 Large Flakes on the left after the piton The start of simul-climbing Nash The way we took to the 5.7 variation The Summit! Gear Notes: Ice Axe & Crampons Full Rack, with 14 Slings (10 Singles, 4 Doubles) Approach Notes: Ref: Alpine Dave's trip report Summitpost (picture: Overlay 1) for pitch numbering.

Good question robertjoy. It does seem a little redic. We took our time on the way in b/c we had all day. A 2 hour lunch break relaxing on the rocks was awesome. So awesome, I almost fell into an alpine nap.

Trip: Black Peak - NE Ridge Date: 7/10/2011 Trip Report: Short Version: Nick, Jason, Matt, and I simul-climbed the NE Ridge of Black Peak for a BOEALPS ICC alpine outing. The weather and route was in great condition. We had snow from the parking lot to the start of the climb. The actual route was snow free except for a short section between the false and actual summit. Get out there before the boulder field shows up! Saturday: • 09:00 Left Rainy Pass TR • 12:00 Heather Pass • 18:00 Setup camp at Wing Lake Sunday: • 05:00 On the trail • 06:30 Reached the start of the climb • 11:30 Summit! • 13:30 Back at Wing Lake • 16:30 Back at the Cars Detailed Version: We were finally off after a little confusion about what trail to start from due to some variations in maps (its up the hill behind the trail head sign). The trail was easy to follow after the first few steps out of the parking lot. Soon enough, we were at Heather pass. The traverse was now underway. We stopped to have lunch by a nice stream just before Lewis Lake. Remember not to pee in the stream you are planning to use. Off to the traverse again. Soon we were Wing Lake to setup camp. We found a few nice tent pads just off the snow by a great water source. We ran into a group that had a “friend” (goat) that followed them the entire day. He soon got sick of them and we passed to us. Jason made sure he wasn’t welcome. We were on the road by 05:00 AM. The snow was great. We are glad for the snow all the way up to the start of the climb. People say the ridge gets better the higher you get, I agree. Mt Logan looked intense, another day. The descent down the Southwest ridge was free up high and had patches of snow in the base of the gullies but it was doable. A nice glissade from the notch was well worth it. Hike went fast on the way out. Remember to not miss the trail after Heather Pass on the way out. Click HERE to view more pictures. Thanks! We missed the obvious start... Lake Ann From Heather Pass Camp by Wing Lake Looking West from camp (Decent from SW Ridge) Jason and the "pet" Goat Sunrise Gaining the ridge Gaining the ridge to the base of the NE Ridge Jason Leading Looking back at our approach from the NE Ridge More NE Ridge and more... Summit! Southwest Ridge Gear Notes: A few cams (.5, .75, 1, #4 link cam), half set of nuts. 4 single and 8 double slings Crampons ball-pow Approach Notes: The parking lot is still full of snow... During our parking lot route finding adventure, we helped push some "hikers" out.

Fun trip! Thanks for the invite! Next time let's hit up Serpentine Arete.