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obwan

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Posts posted by obwan

  1. It really depends on your experience in my IMHO - really, if you have spent some time on snow/ice/rope travel and just needs some ins/outs of crevasse rescue, then the short course would work. If you are a poor man - then a copy of the " Freedom of the Hills" may be a good value. Then you take some buddies out and practice, practice - as they say in the above, seriously -- the only thing that really works is good glacier travel, and don't fall in.

    :yoda:

     

  2. Thanks for the warning Alex. I think the ease of access and proximity to Seattle lull some visitors to the Alpental Valley into a false sense of security, but make no mistake, it is very threatened by avalanches.

     

    Alex and Dan:

    A good reminder - for any newbies, it's called "Avalanche Alley" for a reason. Especially with the early heavy snowfall conditions.

    :yoda:

  3. Obviously, in the Czech Republic they do not know the "Euro" method of glacier rope travel for 2 (even 3) climbers using the "butterfly knot" as a "stopper" to shorten the fall and help with rope dynamics.

    With 5-6 butterfly knots every 3m between climbers that takes care of 30-35 meters, and still leaves some tail for each climber to set up a pulley system.

    Nice music though. :yoda:

     

    Maybe they can get a copy of Freedom of the Hills (Edition 7, pg.387) or later.

    p.s. The Mountain decides who lives and who dies - beware of the slippery slope.

    btw, when you fall far enough to scream - that's called a "Screamer" not a "Whipper".

  4. The Mountain-forecast.com has of course the best detail, especially regarding the wind speed. Since Mt. Rainier is well known for creating it's own weather, the high winds and thunderstorms can be nasty. Typically the early part of July has been problematic with the last week or so getting better. It looks like things open up for a better start on Thurs - Sat in the predictions, I did the Emmons the 3rd week of July once and went up to Camp Schurman to wait things out. You could also maybe get some current conditions from the climbing rangers at the White River Ranger Station at 360-569-2211. Good Luck :tup:

  5. Get on Amazon.com and order a copy of Washington Scrambles - a good way to get started on nontechnical summits, and put the Freedom of the Hills on the bookshelf for awhile.

    You could also try the popular I-90 corridor hikes if you have summit fever - such as Mail Box Peak, Granite Mtn. or McClellan Butte.

  6. I agree - no way this time of year you will get 5ft of snow on The Mountain. We have been having only light storm conditions lately - you could check with Rich Marriott at King 5 News - he's a mountain climber and good weatherman. Other wise just keep checking on the local weather and mountain conditions.

    www.nwac.us is a good source also.

  7. When this thread began - you mentioned it was an 8-9mile technical bushwhack. Now it's sounds like there is a road about 1 mile or so to it. Nice - and here I thought it would be more difficult than looking for the Renton Granite.

    That is like the 'roadside climbing' for drive-up belay from the car bumper, that us Neanderthal hfc climbers like - I love those short approaches.

    :yawn:

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