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McToasty

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  1. I climbed it yesterday - quite a climb. The start of the first pitch is a bit dusty with plenty of lichen but it is a bit cleaner when you get to the business. Same is true for the 2nd and 3rd pitches. The fourth pitch is a bit dirty, especially in the hand jams and around the tree. I dusted off the little ledges while up there but didn't have any tools (besides my sweaty hands) for cleaning the crack. My advice would be not to try the crux thin face pitches in the noonday sun.
  2. I climbed it yesterday - quite a climb. The start of the first pitch is a bit dusty with plenty of lichen but it is a bit cleaner when you get to the business. Same is true for the 2nd and 3rd pitches. The fourth pitch is a bit dirty, especially in the hand jams and around the tree. I dusted off the little ledges while up there but didn't have any tools (besides my sweaty hands) for cleaning the crack. My advice would be not to try the crux thin face pitches in the noonday sun.
  3. Thanks for the info. To those interested in climbing these pitches of Birds of the Sun, it is still a bit dirty/lots of lichen and not super easy to protect - bring TCUs for the lower pitch and small nuts for the last pitch.
  4. My partner and I climbed the first three pitches of Birds of Prey in Squamish last weekend - up to the fourth class section. Then, we went a bit amiss and instead of heading up the final crack and chimney pitches, we went straight up a finger crack in a left corner (bolted stance at bottom of corner) to a set of bolts and then up a thin crack to a pod to a sloping ledge with a bolt to the top. Both pitches felt sort of, um, hard. So, after realizing our mistake and noting that they weren't listed in the Squamish Select guidebook, we went to the store in town to check out the full guidebook. Unfortunately, there is no mention of these pitches there either. Anyone out there have any knowledge of these two pitches? Thanks!
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