jstluise

Yeah you're right, better safe than sorry.

Well, with all this talk about the summit pyramid, I think we'll just leave the rope and glacier gear at home and go super-light. I'm not really concerned about running the glacier unroped this time of year.

As opposed to going up the central gully? I think I would feel more comfortable staying in the gully, but I guess we can take a look when we get up there. How did you finish the pyramid, DPS? And did you bring a rope to rap off, or just downclimb? Thanks everyone, good beta here.

Brand new, never used. $80 http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/3999844924.html

Sounds like we shouldn't have any problems. We'll have some daylight by the time we get up to that point, like you say. Do you recall how many hours your climb was?

Well that is good to know, thanks. I mapped it out best I could and it seems like it would only be about 12-13 miles roundtrip, but a trip report over at summit posts mentioned it was 15 miles and took them 16 hours...maybe they were just slow. (http://www.summitpost.org/shuksan-in-a-day/734236)

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! I think we are going to shoot for Shuksan (Sulphide Glacier) on Saturday, with Eldorado being our second choice. One thing I am concerned about is the approach to Sulphide, as it seems like there may be some route-finding issues, especially when we take off from the car in the dark. Any beta on this? From the most recent Cascade River Road report, you can get to the Eldorado trailhead. We'll save Sahale for when the road opens back up, since there are many other options for us. And I'm adding all the other suggestions to my list!

Awesome! Thanks! Maybe I'll give them a call in a couple days for another report (if the website doesn't change). But, now you have me looking at Eldorado as an option.

Black Peak would be out, too, because of the Highway 20 closure...but I'll add it to the list! I'll check out Sulphide Glacier! Thanks!

If I understand correctly, it said it was closed at the park boundary. I'm assuming that means at the very beginning of the road? http://www.nps.gov/noca/parknews/cascade-river-road-wash-out.htm

Was planning on heading up to Sahale this Saturday, but road closures changed that plan. Can anyone recommend something similar to Sahale (class 3-4 at the most) that can be done in a full day? We were planning on getting the drive out of the way on Friday after work so we would have a good start and pretty much all day to complete the climb. We haven't ventured up into the N. Cascades except for Baker, so here I am

Wow! Thanks guys! Excellent advice here! After all your advice, I think my best plan of attack will be to get myself a pair of full tech tools...I'll be keeping an eye out on the used market. As it was said, using my piolet along with a hammer will get me going, and then I'll always have a full set of tools for more technical stuff when I get to that point. Then, if I find that I don't like my Raven Pro, I can always pick up a Sum'Tec or Venom adze at a later date.

How well does the piolet do when in swinging mode? I haven't been in the situation where I've needed to swing my ice axe (raven pro), and obviously a reverse curve pick of an ice tool is preferred to the positive curve of a piolet tool when climbing ice, but I guess I won't know until I try it. So even though a technical tool is overkill, it's really the only option (not considering the hybrid)? From what I gather, either a piolet with a tech ice tool would be good, or even a hybrid paired with a tech ice tool might be an option (since the hybrid give you almost the same functionality as the piolet). At least if I want to give ice climbing a try in the future, I'll already have a set of tools if I forgo the hybrid. Hey Silly, in regards to a comment you made earlier in the thread: When you say one tool, are you meaning just that: one tool (a piolet)? Or do you mean your piolet with a tool? Seems like some people call a piolet a tool and some don't. Thanks guys for the words of wisdom! Been wanting to get out on more technical stuff for a while and you guys are getting me started in the right direction!

Cool, thanks for the input. So, in a situation where you are carrying a traditional axe and a second tool, are you ever using them simultaneously, or do you stow the traditional axe and just use the tool by itself? I guess that is where I'm confused... And if that is the case (stowing the poilet), then I would think bringing a long a hybrid tool only would be a good compromise to bring a poilet and a second tool?

Thanks for the info! Sounds like a good route for next year! So are you saying get a pair of fully technical tools (eg cobra/viper), or more of a hybrid axe (eg venom/sum'tec)? I'm leaning toward picking up a pair of the BD Venom tools, as I'm sure they will get me through mostly anything I tackle in the near future. Just not sure if a fully technical tool is overkill... Is it typical to use a traditional ice axe paired with a tool? It seems like if you in need of a tool, it would be better to have two tools rather than one tool and a traditional ice axe. Thanks for the advice!

I figured the Finger wouldn't be an option late in the season, just threw it out there as an option for our progression into more technical terrain. I completely agree with you. That seems like the most natural progression (getting comfortable with 1 tool). I guess that will be a goal for next year. Now the question is what tool to get. Thinking something like the Petzl Sum'Tec or BD Venom would be a good step up from my traditional axe and will get me on those next routes. Time to do some research!

Thanks! I'll keep that route in mind! This probably deserves another thread and I'm sure the answer is out there somewhere, but since I am here I will ask. What would you recommend as a "second tool"? Something along the lines of a hybrid tool (eg BD Venom) with a hammer, or a full technical tool (eg BD Cobra/Viper)? Seems like a hybrid would be a good next step, but I'm wondering if I should just skip that and go with a technical tool, since I really want to progress toward more technical routes.

My climbing partner and I have been up DC and Emmons a handful of times, with a summit via Gib Ledges, too. I'm gathering beta for our next route choice, and was thinking Kautz Glacier or Kautz Cleaver. Maybe Fuhrer Finger/Thumb? We both just have axes, no tools (and no experience using tools). Haven't climbed anything that requires a second tool, yet. That's why I'm curious about if our next route selection will require them. But, we are efficient and very comfortable with our axes. Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated! Just looking to get away from the crowds and try something new, and it seems like moving to the south side of the mountain is the logical choice. I'd really like to get up to camp Hazard Also, our busy summers won't permit us to get up on the mountain until the first half of August. By that time, these routes might not be feasible for us? Might have to save a new route for next year. Thanks!

I'm right there with you. While I'm sure the small shop employee has a good idea on what I should buy, that is only one data point. Going online to check out gear reviews, forums, etc, and talking to other climbers I know gives me a much better idea of what I should buy. I've always used this method and I'm happy with all my gear because of it...actually I can only think of one time where I returned something that was used, and that was because of a manufacturers defect (I exchanged the item with a new one and haven't had problems since). All the other returns I've had at REI are brand new items, mostly items off the online outlet where you can't try it out in person. A pair of running shoes for half off? Sure, I'll order it. Crap, they don't fit? No problem. I stopped by REI today to get some fuel canisters for this weekend, and so I popped into customer service to see what the scoop is. They guy basically told me that all the news outlets put a pretty bad spin on the new return policy. Now, this is what he told me: -First off, the return policy becomes effective today, meaning that jacket you bought 2 years ago is still covered. Only items purchased after today fall under the new return policy. -Secondly, there is still a lifetime return policy for item "defects". I didn't ask about how subjective that is, i.e. who decides if it is a defect or just wear? Of course, you would think the user would be honest and not try to return something they used for years that finally wore out. This idea was touched on in this thread. Anyways, as far as I'm concerned, after talking with the REI employee, nothing much has changed for me, since I've never abused the system. Defects are still covered, so that is good enough for me. Now the only thing that has changed is that I only have 30 days to decide if I want to hang onto that latest outlet deal that I might find...but I think I can deal with that.

Okay, the leaking boot was a bad example. I guess the main point I was trying to make is if I have a product that I only get to use a handful of times in a season (compared to a someone like a guide that uses it every day), that may not be enough time to discover if any defects exist. Then next season comes around and then I do discover a defect, I might be out of luck. Sure, I guess that is my fault for not putting it through its paces, but it was the REI return policy that would help out in situations like that. It was kind of like an extended warranty. Heck, if they offered an extended warranty at a price I would probably take advantage of it for big ticket items. Everyone is making good points in this thread. Going to a local shop to buy gear that comes with input from their employees is a good idea, and I've done that before. But that's not the only way to make a decision on what gear to buy; gear reviews and ratings online give you a pretty idea if the item will last or if you should avoid it.

I was just using the boot leaking as an example. But, a goretex boot shouldn't leak after after 5-10 trips, and in which case, I would consider them defective. I did gather that defective items can still be returned, although it seems like that is going to be subjective.

Exactly! People like that definitely ruined it for us. My backpacking boots are 5 years old and in pretty good shape, but one started leaking. I've gotten tons of miles out of them and definitely my moneys worth, so I would feel pretty guilty returning them. So what happens when my $400+ pair of mountaineering boots that I wear on ~5 trips a year springs a leak or something else 2 years after I bought them (when they should last much longer)? Looks like I'm SOL now. Well, backcountry.com still has a lifetime return policy. I'll be going there for big purchases for now on.

http://seattletimes.com/html/businesstechnology/2021116265_reireturnsxml.html 1 year return policy...30 day for outlet items. Disappointing...especially when I pay more money for items at REI just because of the return policy, when I could have saved money and bought them online. Oh, and how about a heads up? Policy if effective starting today apparently. Not even an email or letter to their members?

Thanks for the response. I've climbed it twice before (almost three, turned back last year because of crappy weather), so I am familiar with the route. I don't foresee there being any problems with the route, but just thought I would check to see if anyone has been up there recently. In the past we've done it in a day (a long, 15hr day), but this time we are going to take it easy and get up to camp on Friday after work. Still keeping an eye on the weather, though...it is no fun when you can't see the views from up there!

I'm looking for some beta from anyone that has been up to Summerland/Meany Crest/Fryingpan/Little T. I'm hoping to get out this coming weekend (pending weather), but I haven't seen any reports on Little T this season. Thanks!