stevetimetravlr
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Posts posted by stevetimetravlr
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I agree George, to pull the hangers on those anchors, and not replace the pin. Going that way on Right Gull looks easier and so folks get led over that way be the anchors, when in reality continuing up the crack to the ledge is the best way.
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Sorry to hear that the guy had the pin pull on him. Maybe the anchor there should be chopped and both pins pulled. It suckers people over that way, when in reality the standard, easiest and gear protected way is straight up the crack from the right pillar, instead of traversing left to that anchor.
Ivan, That block needs glued, because its going to cause all kinds of hell when it goes, you're right.
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GZ, Best all around for Beacon imo is DMM offsets in regular size nuts, and the DMM offset brassies in the smaller sizes.
The hammer is apparent Bill, but its hard to see the tree in the forest.
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I am a hoping so if I can get out of Dodge on the next south bound train.
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So can anyone go out and jug the ropes, or just the folk with jumars?
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Can you find the hammer in this photo?
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3rd ascent good for me. Ready when you R.
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Right on Ivan. You're a "chip" off the old block!
Hey, you still owe me some knifeblades from when you did Smooth Dancer was it?
Topher, here is some evidence of the chippers at work...just not right I tell ya.
I know!!
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Bill nails it, literally and figuratively!
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It is not considered chipping a route to place a pin, but placing bolts alongside cracks is considered very poor style in general, and scoffed at by the climbing community in general.
Serenity Crack would not be climbed free by 99% of the people it is today if it had not been pinned out for years aid climbing, and creating bomber locks and clean placements.
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That Ben is just a crushing it. Keep on firing it Ivano@!
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Adam's Crack? that's sick..
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All you can handle Bill! Can I tape up first?
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Pink, that was not directed at you. Kev was pullng another boner. Bill, got to let us have some fun!!!
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What history at Beacon are you referring to John? One fatality in 100 years, and that was a rappelling accident. I am not in disagreement with the above, but the same can be then said of the Index Town Wall, the other bastion of traditional climbing in the NW. Should we pull all the pins at Index and replace them with bolts? Town Crier and Green Dragon both have tons of fixed pins among others. The Flying Dutchman is similar and a multi pitch route. What happens if fixed gear fails? Then the person who made the decision to clip it pays the consequence and is responsible. But the liability rests with the person clipping the gear, whether its fixed or they placed the piece. You accept that when you make the decision to lead a certain climb. Only in a climbing gym do they guarantee the clips. No one can guarantee that outside the gear will stay good, even bolts. Period. To many natural forces working on it. That said, I sure am glad to see some of the questionable bolts being replaced out at Beacon. Kudos to the guys doing the work!
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That is one hell of a crag. I am now jonesing to get up there and check it out. Not sure if I can drag the Plaidman away from the Adventure Queen, but maybe can twist Ivan's arm to take me for a spin. Looks wild with tons of potential, but out in the boondocks.
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I haven't led the Dutchman this year, TR'd it a few times. Some Portland folks led it last week, and had no complaints about the pro. My thought is that replacing the pins is mandatory if George was able to wiggle it around.
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Bootied your biner George on Sunday. Yeah, those pins are looking decrepit. Couchmaster on the first ascent with Jim the Flying Dutchman, he's offering some replacement pins, but does he offer....... a bolt or two? ;
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Oh man, you guys should have gone to Beaver Creek last instead of with Edgar.
Another grand adventure..
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Beacon
in Columbia River Gorge
Posted
chop chop