Wacky Iraqi

Yes, I remember the 'easy scrambling to the summit' as described by Becky. Horribly loose in places. Wet in the gully will be OK; there was ice in it when I was last there. Thanks for the info.

Looking for any beta on route conditions for the 'classic' N ridge Mt Stuart route. Not doing the Great Gendarme; is the rappel gully still snow-filled? I did it 7 years ago, but not with the snow year we have had. Going to be hot up there; we ran out of water on the last trip. Long day, long story.

My first time up Mt Stuart via the W Ridge in '95 I encountered snafflehounds for the first time. Persistant little buggers and amazing climbers. At one point we had our food bag hanging from a chock 15' off of the ground above our bivy until we watched one jam DOWN the crack headfirst, only to be disuaded at the last minute by a near strike from a rock. It was only after rigging the climbing rope between two trees on the ledge that we got some peace; they just wanted our food. I took a party up to the same spot to bivy 3 years later. Fueled by my horror story of the above-mentioned sleepless night one of them brought a paintball gun. We never saw or heard a single one that night! Remember, we are the intruders there, not that I like them any more then anyone who has had a hole chewed through their pack or the cork grips of their trekking poles devoured. As to anesthesia by saliva..........? Sounds like BS to me.