moss killer

Thanks for the replies everyone. Even the not-entirely positive ones We knew going into it that bolting that pitch would ruffle some feathers, it was inevitable. I appreciate your thoughts on the matter kayfire. Our reasoning was not, however, to "save climbers the hassle of hauling up a big rack". Believe me, you need a pretty big rack to do this route. The fact is, almost no-one has that much big gear. So not only would you be hauling an extra fifteen pounds of monster gear for only that pitch, but you would have to beg/ borrow/ buy/ or steal an assortment of stuff that would be very hard to scare up. For anyone wanting to do it with trad gear the pitch would take about 1 #5 camalot, 2 #6 friends, 2-3 #4 big bros, and 2 of those new #5 big bros. (depending on your comfort level of course) Kris

Trip: Squamish BC - Polaris Date: 8/6/2008 Trip Report: Hi everyone, I haven't posted here for a couple of years so I'm pretty rusty at this (bear with me). I wanted to share photos and a topo of a route that my friend Reuben and I had been working on for three years. We actually completed the first ascent last August (2007), but since there isn't an updated Squamish guide coming out for some time we thought this would be a good way to spread the information. Polaris ascends the Zodiac wall of the Chief on the other side of the North Gully from Angel's Crest. Here are some photos from bottom to top on the FA, enjoy! Kris Wild following the first pitch, 5.10c. You can see the recently rock-scoured North Gully below. [/img] Reuben Shelton starting the steep second pitch 5.11c (5.11a, A0) [/img] Here's Reuben beginning the fourth pitch. Don't worry, it's only 5.10c and you don't need anything bigger than a #4 camalot. After that it's bolted.... Sorry to the purists, but there's probably only a handful of people in the country with a rack big enough for this pitch. This is how big the crack starts out as at the belay: And here's how big it is at the top: Reuben chillin' out on turtle ledge before pitch five. So named for his uncanny ability to always have to take a crap when he got here... Reuben staying serious getting in touch with his inner Ninja after the crux of pitch six, 5.10c. Here I am following the same pitch. I think this is some of the steepest perfect 5.9 hands in Squamish. (But I'm probably biased...) The seventh pitch bears a striking resemblance to Astro-logger, but I think it's easier. 5.11b Pitch eight is is a sport route. 45m of bolted face climbing. 5.11b The roof looks a little daunting from this vantage point! Here's the business: If you weren't tired already, pitch nine is the crux. Here I am stepping into the crack that begins the pitch. It quickly shrinks from hands to a knifeblade seam, which leaves you bear-hugging an arete as you battle up to the rest below the final roof. The Acrophobes of Angel's crest are visible in the background. 5.12a (5.11a, A0) The grand finale, although easier, is the roof just before the belay. Here's Reuben following the crux pitch. Reuben following the last (tenth) pitch. 5.10c Exhausted celebration as we put our three year project to rest! We hope you've enjoyed the pics. Here's a copy of the topo for ya' too. Make lots of copies and hand them around! Thanks for lookin' ! Kris Approach Notes: POLARIS 5.12a (5.11b, A0) 10p FA Kris Wild, Reuben Shelton, August 6, 2007 Approach: As for Angel’s Crest. 200m up from the entrance to the North Gully. (100m uphill from the “tree start” to Angel’s Crest) It’s on the left and it’s the only corner. Gear: One set nuts, double set cams up to #2 camalot size, one #3 and 3.5 P1. Up right facing corner, past ledge (old belay) up the next corner through roof and out right to belay. 5.10b, 50m (This pitch was originally Nostromo, 5.6, A2, John Manuel, Bruce Fairley, 1982.) P2. Start left of station and climb into the steep open corner, (pulling on the bolt at the top of the corner will drop the grade to 5.11a) then face climbing and cracks to a large ledge. Watch your rope drag! 5.11c, 55m P3. Out left past flakes and up a widening crack to the base of THE corner. 5.9, 20m P4. Up! Exit via the chimney and use the right-hand station to belay. 5.10c, 40m P5. Scramble up the chimney on the right behind the large pillar, then on top of it and across the balanced boulder. Discontinuous cracks and face climbing lead up and left to a belay beside the main corner. 5.10a, 30m P6. Tune in to your inner ninja for the puzzling crux entering the corner (or pull on the bolt and skip it, you sissy), up the corner to belay at the cedar tree. 5.10c, 30m P7. Up the corner passing 2 trees. At the roof, head left past 2 bolts to belay on a ledge. 5.11b, 55m P8. Face climbing up the white wall, out right to belay. (One #3 camalot optional.) 5.11b, 50m P9. Step right into the crack. Follow it with increasing difficulty until it is possible to clip a bolt and step left to a ledge. (Pulling on a couple of pieces of gear and the bolt make this about 5.11a.) Traverse up right to a perch below the roof, then pull wild moves through the roof and left to the belay. 5.12a, 30m P10. Up nice cracks to the final belay. 5.10c, 30m Descent: Either rap the route with 2 ropes or walk up and right the same as for Northern Lights.