Adam Watts

Wanting any beta/ route conditions for any of these routes, have a trip next week and would like to know before I choose: White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glaciers - Glacier Peak Blue Glacier - Mt. Olympus emmons winthrop - Rainier

The First Ascent line of Tents and sleeping bags are vastly underwhelming. Heavy double wall tents at over 10lbs? No thank you. Sleeping bags that don't even give details on their fill weight? Pathetic attempt to enter the gear field.

Terrible news. Hope a speedy recovery!

Thanks for the responses guys! I think I with carry a standard 24" picket and then buy a 36" picket and cut it in half for a 18" picket. Each person will have 2 piece of pro and it will save on weight.

Is carrying 2 pickets overkill, or do many climbers do that? What is the typical setup?

If one uses their ice axe as a second piece of pro it really limits their ability to clear the lip of the crevasse and to use the axe itself to prevent the rope from cutting then into the lip. So does that mean that for a 2 person glacier team that everyone has 2 pickets?

In regards to a 2 person glacier team how much snow protection is required for each member to carry? I remember reading that every member of a glacier team should carry at least 1 piece of pro like a picket or fluke but does that ratio change when there are only 2 people of a team? If each member of a 2 person glacier team has only 1 piece of pro, one can't back up their snow anchor which is always taught. I was thinking that each member of a 2 person team might carry 1 24" inch picket and 1 snow fluke. That way one could arrest the fall and place probably the picket first because it might be easier to place then back it up with a snow fluke for a bomber anchor.

I would be really interested! Unfortunately Wednesday evenings I have school. Maybe Tuesday night would work better for me as well like Bubble

If that is vantage/Frenchman Coulee that is very much an access issue! We can't have vantage gone!!

My Helios vest is a bit on short in length in the torso but I still think its the warmest garment for its weight I have ever seen.

I hope you get better Dane! I have long been a big fan of Cold Thistle, wish you the best!

Having been to vantage twice and I am still confused on how the guide book splits up the climbing areas on the Sunshine Wall. I have been reading The Best of Frenchman Coulee The way I typically access Sunshine Wall is by dropping down Gully 2 through the rock tunnel. Once out of the tunnel I take a right and it the path continues down to for a long while. I am confused as what the maps have as center, left, right. Are the Tilted pillars directly to the left once your exit the tunnel?

My girlfriend wants to go somewhere warm since last week we were up on Rainier in the snow. Where do you guys think the best sport climbing in WA state is? I have been vantage once and it was warm and fun. I'd like to sport climb and practice putting in pro to get more familiar with my cams and nuts. What about Leavenworth?

Looks great denalidevo! I hope my trad partner can come along! Did the Tooth in September and that was my first trad route. Not comfortable doing all the leading.

I was thinking of heading up to the Enchantments this week. Since I will be in the area I was also thinking of climbing Prusik peak for the first time. Do you think it will be too cold to climb this late in the season? Should I return in mid summer to climb it instead?