bvl

Copper Basin (take the trail that heads up there) Just make sure you do a very good job of burying your shit a long ways from the creek, as that is the source of the villages drinking water. Granted they have a filtration plant, but it is the thought that counts =) Starting from the basin, or a little bit lower is the least Bushwacky way to get to Copper, you should gain at least 2000' on the trail before leaving it.

Summit post lists Pulpito del Diablo as 70m-90m, seems about right.

Trip: Parque El Cocuy, Colombia - Date: 12/17/2013 Trip Report: When I moved to Colombia a year and a half ago I had one goal, getting to Parque Nacional El Cocuy. With that goal accomplished I think I am ready to move back to Washington. We only had 5 days to spend in this amazing area, I wish we had 2+ weeks. The scenery, mountains, people, and weather were incredible. With limited time and big goals we hired a guide to coordinate transportation and lodging logistics, and to make sure we didn't get lost on the approach. For us it was well worth it, but if you have the time it is a very easy area to go self-supported, good roads, transportation and places to camp. The trails are pretty good too, a little braided in places, but easy to negotiate in the light. At each trail head there are cabins/guest houses where you can get a decent bed and good meals for a reasonable price. We did both of our climbs as single-push days from the cabins (4,000m). Currently the park holds the highest climbable peak in Colombia in Ritak U'Wa Blanco at 5,330m. There are 3 higher peaks in Colombia but they are in areas controlled by Narcos, or Natives, and the natives don't appreciate any outside influence, or people climbing their sacred mountains. Fair enough. Current estimates give the glaciers in El Cocuy 25-50 years before they are gone. Get it while you can. Anybody up for a last ski descent? After 2 days of acclimation hikes we climbed Pan de Azucar (5,120m) on the 17th. The weather pattern had been clear mornings until 10am when the clouds moved in, but this day it was overcast when we started out at 3am, with the clouds breaking just was we reached the summit. It was a straight forward walk-up ascent, with a little exposure on the summit ridge. This was Tara's first climb and she was a total champ! She never thought she would like climbing, and then she tried it. Once we got back to the cabin, we caught a ride to the north end of the park, to get set up for climbing Ritak U'Wa Blanco(5,330m) on the 18th. Tara decided to sleep in and skip this peak, relishing in her accomplishment on the previous day. Ritak U'Wa has the biggest glacier in the park, and the views were amazing. Statue of the U'Wa creation story God Sleeps in the stones, Breathes in the plants, Dreams in the animals, Whispers in the water and Awakes in man Poster inside the National Park office, Smokey the bear doesn't seem so hot anymore. Endemic Collared Lizard La Vieja Cool Rocks Frailejones with Pulpito del Diablo and Pan de Azucar in the background Base Cabin for Pan de Azucar Bring your fishing pole if you go. First site of Pan de Azucar, STOKED! Summit ridge of Pan de Azucar Last steps to the summit, Possibly the biggest smile I have seen. Ritak U'Wa Blanco poking through the clouds on the decent Pulpito del Diablo. There are a number of rock routes on this tower. It took an hour to descend on the bedrock that the receding glacier has exposed in the last 50 years. Guide Hilberto with Ritak U'Wa negro in the back Summit of Ritak U'Wa Blanco Almost there Summit views Pan de Azucar on the far right On the bus ride back Tara asked, "What does it take to climb Cotopaxi" She is hooked! Approach Notes: Fly to Bogota, 12 hour bus to the towns of El Cocuy or Guican. 2 hour drive to trail head.

Love the photo of Fernow and 7 Fingered Jack!

Beautiful photos. You are making me homesick for the cascades.

For the Holden end of things, all you need to do is email the registrar - registrar@holdenvillage.org - I think - (check the website to make sure this is correct) and let them know when you are coming and that you have extra gear. Then we'll make sure we have plenty of room for you and your stuff on the way up. If you have any other holden logistic questions, or want to know what the snow conditions are like, give me an email - tbvanloo at gmail Brennan

Nice work! It was great talking with guys over lunch before you took off. I think Dumbell pass just got added to my list of places to go before it all melts. Brennan

I have some pics of Holden ice from Friday, all around the copper creek basin. Most of it is 1-2 pitches in length and about 1.5 hours from the village. Due to our slow internet connection and my struggles with posting pics I'll email the pics to you so you can post them, if you want them. I'll keep my eyes open and let you know if I see anything else.

I'll try to do that.

I have seen some potential lines in the big creek area, as well as just E of hart lake. I am not sure if the waterfalls that wayne mentioned are in in the winter, but if they were, they would be amazing. I am working at Holden this winter, so if you are thinking of coming out, give me an email and I can tell you what things are looking like- maybe even take a few pics. tbvanloo at gmail Brennan

What size bindings on the kilowatts?

Trip: Bonanza Peak - Mary Green Glacier Date: 9/24/2011 Trip Report: This route is still in great shape. Easy scrambling up the waterfall slabs. Crevasses were open, and easily negotiated. One very large crevasse below the snow thumb that has a very large snow bridge over it. Easy transition from snow thumb to rock. No snow on rock route. 4 rappels down. Easily down climbed waterfall slabs. Back in time for Saturday night pizza at Holden. Approach Notes: Easy to follow climbers path from lake to Holden Pass.

You are correct that there isn't any recent beta. As far as I have seen nobody has come through Holden to climb it since late july (I live at holden) Their is still a small patch of snow in the gully above the schrund. Wish I could help you more, but, it has probably changed a lot in the last month. Negotiating the waterfalls at the toe of the glacier could be your most interesting part. In late July we easily got around the schrund on the rock to the right. Have fun! bvl

Indeed, it is a nice place to live for a year or two. Christian, if you come through next winter, let me know, I would love to do some skiing with you. Brennan

Trip: Foreskin - Date: 5/20/2011 Trip Report: After Feck and friends came through Holden Village last month, I figured I should post something from this area beings that I live at Holden. Although Holden is surrounded by numerous peaks over 8,000', only sub-summits are visible from the village. These peaks, beautiful in there own right, are generally given the name of the closest named peak. Thus the two most visible peaks from the village are called Buckskin, even though Buckskin proper (8,124') is a mile south of them. I had heard of a former staff member refer to them as second-skin and foreskin. I found it amusing, so thats what I'll call them, as I try to avoid double entendres such as: I have been staring at Foreskin all winter, Getting off Foreskin was easier than I thought, Foreskin shouldn't be easily dismissed etc. Foreskin and Second skin from the Village (March) L to R Foreskin, Second-skin, Buckskin (A fun summer traverse) from Copper peak I had been eyeing this climb for most of the winter, and finally had decent weather, and someone to join me on on Friday. The only hitch was that Dale had to work in the Kitchen at 11:00. Approach in Blue, Descent in Red There was a lot of post-holing on the way up, with a few cliff bands to negotiate, so we were hoping for a better way down. When we gained the main E ridge, the snow was a little firmer in places. There were still some large cornices remaining, but they had very little over-hanging. The summit was sunny and warm, but we needed to get down quickly so Dale could get to work. We decided to head down a coulior that we knew would take us to Copper creek. At 10 am, the snow was still hard, and coupled with a debris runnel in the middle, and avy debris at the bottom, it was not a fun ski, but later in the day it would have been grand. A month or two earlier and it would be doable to ski from the summit to within a two minute walk of the village, with only a 100'-200' section of booting to get above copper creek before the final ski down to Railroad creek. Next year . . . Here is a slightly better picture of our decent route, I'll try to take a better picture when it stops raining Dale and the village Second skin, ridiculous summit pose, Maude, Fernow, part of Copper Holden Village (lower right) and the Railroad creek valley Bonanza View from my front porch Approach Notes: Walk out front door.