tradhead
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I pulled a tick out of my scalp also on the drive home after visiting SCW on Sunday.
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Check your PM's.
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I'd discourage you but YMMV. Touring is really gear intensive for a reason unfortunately.
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Josh - I have also always enjoyed your trip reports and enthusiasm for the mountains. Hope that you are healing up well and feel better soon!
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I found some gear on the East Ridge of Forbidden this weekend. Looked like it was left recently. ID including marking to claim.
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Nice job guys. Looks like a great couple of days in the alpine. Forbidden is awesome.
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I am planning to attend tomorrow night. Oly, if you have any more size M tee's can you bring one for me?
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It seems like, with a couple of these:
http://www.madrockclimbing.com/products/product.asp?_item=100085
that it would be possible to figure out a way to have it fix a rope to a bolted anchor such that you could follow using a mini traxion. That being said, it would probably be easier to come up with a system to clip the anchors with a quadcopter.
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Adam - thanks for posting. It is excellent to get your mission posted here as well as the Leavenworth Climbing Rangers' contact information out there so that more climbers are aware of your group's goals and how to contact you if needed.
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Are the climbing rangers core climbers that have been appointed rangers, like in Yosemite?
Why have the Leavenworth climbing rangers not chimed in yet to add their personal perspective on this discussion?
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Nice job you two! Sounds like you scored weather-wise up there last weekend. Way to sneak in some great climbs between the storms.
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John Ramuta has always done a great job for me too. He has given several pairs of my shoes new life when I was ready to toss them because they were so blown out. That and his soles don't delam unlike some of the other guys mentioned in this thread.
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Scottwesh - you mean like this:
These were a pair of 1980's Asolos that my friend John borrowed last year to go ice climbing. They had some issues on the approach.
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Another +1 for Ramuta. I've had many resoles done with him and never had one delam, and they come back shape-wise looking close to new. Fast too.
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Second that. Max is the man.
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I bought several 1/2" Dynex (BD) and two Dyneema (WC) shoulder slings just under two years ago. The Dyneema slings are still very supple and mostly not exhibiting any obvious wear while the Dynex slings are very worn and getting obviously brittle. I am planning on replacing them soon with WC dynneema and do not plan on buying Dynex in the future.
YMMV - just one data point obviously.
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To those that are envious of AT over a splitboard, you're right - they have a lot of advantages:
1) you can get a really light set-up if you spend $$$
2) faster up/down transition
3) way better on gentle rolling terrain
But there is one advantage of splitboards that is key for me as a climber - the ability to ride in my climbing boots if needed. Climbing in AT boots is something that I have done a long time ago but not something that I would do by choice again. I'm sure this will invite plenty of contrary thoughts; feel free to flame on. You know what they say about opinions...
Anyway, back to the OP's question. I am on my second splitboard now and would recommend trying to rent (or borrow) a few before buying one. Touring can be a lot of work at times and you don't want to ruin your fun with a set-up that doesn't function well. My first split was an old Duotone that rode like and weighed as much as a 2x8. I could make it work but it was a challenge both up and downhill.
My new Prior floats in the powder and is fast uphill. Karakorum K-clips are superior (faster transition) due to the wet snow around here, and splitboard specific bindings are lighter and better than the Voile plates in every respect except for cost.
One worry that kept me away from the Mojo is that it is cap construction unlike many of its competitors. But the price is right so personal preference will dictate there.
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Skip the upgrade and spend the $500 on a climbing trip.
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Hello.
Sorry for replying a year later but I missed this when you posted it last November. Is this still for sale? (I'm guessing not...) If so, I would be interested in purchasing it. I am in Seattle so bear that in consideration if you're interested in selling the bivy so that we can make plans to meet or that I can pay you and have it shipped.
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An extended trip to Squamish.
Other than that, finger cracks climb a lot more like face climbs than other (larger) cracks. Milk the feet and rests and don't plug up the best jams with gear. Perhaps obvious advice but more pertinent to thin cracks than hand cracks or wider IMO especially if the crack is constricting.
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Regarding the increased impact forces associated with autolocking belay devices, this point was raised by the UIAA a few years ago. There was a study that they published (which I can't seem to locate in my very quick internet search) that came to the same conclusion as the Beal data.
The conclusion of the UIAA study was that autolocking devices should only be used for TR belaying and not lead belaying due to increased anchor loads. Obviously not a universally accepted theory from what I see at the crags these days.
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Another option is the Greyhound bus line. Kind of slow but when my buddy rode it up there from Seattle a few years ago he had no issues.
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Mike - I've only used the older Camelbak Omega bladders, never the Antidote. I can imagine how the removable tube would be a bad idea. Makes cleaning easier but as you've observed, an easy opportunity for leakage.
One option would be to permanently glue the tube in place using food grade RTV silicone. You can find it on the internet for a few dollars a tube and it is probably available at hardware stores as well (I've never looked for it so can't say for sure...) Silicone is pretty flexible so I'd think that this would be a very long-lasting if not permanent solution that you could always re-seal with more silicone if it sprang a leak down the road.
I am pretty hard on gear but the Camelbak bladders have been the most durable of the options you listed in my experience. Threaded fittings on Droms always loosen and eventually leak due to the hose moving around as I climb, and you know my position on the Platypuses.
I will test the RTV silicone idea out when my current bladder fails in a few years and I have to replace it with one of those Antidotes. If it is a bad idea, sorry - I wish that I could give you a proven solution instead of a random idea...
long & free rock/alpine partner
in Climbing Partners
Posted · Edited by tradhead
Check your PMs.