Jeff W

I suggest you don't bother with Mt Adams in 2013; does not lend itself to your objective. Instead, consider Mt Shasta or the Emmons Route on Rainier in 2013.

Mt Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier, while not a short approach, is a fantastic climb. The summit pyramid is the blocky scramble you noted. Nice setting in the North Cascades.

I will check it out. Thanks.

Because I am stuck working in Kansas for the rest of this year I need to look at climbing opportunities closer than the Cascade Range of Washington. Colorado is a reasonable trip from my location in Kansas. Doing a search for possible climbs I came across Longs Peak via the Keyhole Route. 15 miles round trip with about 4800 feet elevation gain all on class 3 granite. Sounds like an ass kicker. Anyone done this route and can comment about whether or not is worthwhile?

Looking for suggestions on carrying my ice axe on an airplane. I can't imagine they would let me take it in my carry-on pack, so would have to check a gear bag at $20 bucks per bag. The other concern with checking a gear bag is finding my axe sticking through the side of the bag at the carousel. Is it common to wrap the axe in something before stashing in the gear bag?

If that frickin dog can summit without a second/ice tool so can I! Actually, I need to break down and spring for two ice tools. Last August I borrowed two tools and spent a day ice climbing in the cravasses on lower Emmons at Camp Shurman. I can see it being easy getting hooked on ice climbing - and would be easier to do if I had my own gear.

Thanks for the advice. I may end up buying a 2nd tool; I will probably need one at some point anyway.

So I have been reading all the posts about ice above the Pearly Gates, using ice screws, running belays, yada yada. I will be flying home mid-June (Tri-Cities) and planned a quick climb of Hood during that trip. Problem is I don't own an ice tool. I have not needed one on Rainier, Shuksan, Baker, others; not sure what is the story with Mt Hood. Are the stories about women summiting in high heals and dogs prancing to the summit just bullshit? Please advise - I may need to place my order for an ice tool.

I have various softshells - Outdoor Research and Mountain Hardwear, Arcteryx Gore Tex shell, Mountain Hardwear waterproof Conduit jacket, Outdoor Research Primaloft Hoodie...From my experience getting the best shit you can afford is worth it. I have used all of it at some point on Mountain Rescue missions and training, as well as for personal climbing and have no complaint about any piece. It's comforting to know you can count on the stuff when it matters. As far as Arcteryx, I like the technical fit of their jackets.

If you are talking about the retainer clips that hold the tails of the straps in place, when mine break I replace them with plastic cable tie wraps. Leave them loose enough to tuck the tail through. They are much more durable than originals.

I suspect you mean there are no crevasses on the south climb. There are none. For overnight you will want a minimum 45L to 55L pack. You will likely be packing a tent/bivy, sleeping bag, jackets, stove and fuel, food and related stuff. As far as route finding, just make sure that on your return you pay attention to the trail below lunch counter. It's common for folks to get off trail and end up continuing down the drainage, resulting in bushwacking to hit the trail again.

Use a prusik minding pulley (PMP) at the anchor. When you pull the rope through the PMP the prusik breaks free as you pull. When you stop pulling the prusik locks off and you reset the other pulley - which does not have to be a PMP. Be sure to reset the non-PMP before pulling them too close together.

For rentals check with Whittaker Mountaineering in Ashford.

On my list of potential climbs this year is Mt Baker via the Easton Glacier, probably the third week of August. I have no experience on Mt Baker. The Easton Glacier seems to be the most clear-cut route on the mountain. Looks like the trailhead starts at Schrieber's Meadow with high camp at about 7000 feet. Is route finding relatively straightforward on this route? Is there a significant crevasse hazard? Thanks for any-and-all info.

I have not climbed Mt Hood, but can speak to Rainier and Adams. Rainier is in a different league, being a couple thousand feet higher than either Hood or Adams it makes a noticeable difference breathing during the climb. Probably the key difference about Rainier is the crevasse hazard. You need to understand route finding in areas of crevasses, and you better be prerpared to perform crevasse rescue if needed. You need to have the equipment to perform the rescue, and knowledge of setting up a 3:1 pulley system. Depending on route you can avoid crevasse hazard entirely on Adams or Hood.