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Peter Way

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Posts posted by Peter Way


  1. On 3/4/2019 at 5:53 PM, ggres335 said:

    Where is this "gully"? Rainier area?

    Nisqually bridge.  Half way between Longmier and Paradise.     We also climbed 2 lines right at the start of road to Ricksecker Point.    One was thin and un-protectable the other fat and vertical at the top.    You have to rap in and climb out.   Park where the road is closed and rap over the edge right there.


  2. Take dried potato, spices and butter to add to your freeze dried meals.   Put twice as much water in the meal as it says, let it sit a while then add some stuff to amp it up.   Take dried fruit and sugar to add to your breakfast cereal.

    Take the food that you know you will like to eat.   Take the best chocolate you can buy (Toblerone) instead of M&Ms.  It may cost you more but you wont regret it.


  3. This climb is called "The Cooper 30"    It's 30 meters tall and hangs off Cooper Spur above the Eastern side of the Eliot Glacier at 8000 feet elevation.   It forms early, I've climbed it in mid November.   And it lasts late, this year I climbed it in May.   Where else can you go locally and find water ice that lasts 6 months of the year?    Some years there's a whole mess of other ice handing up there too.   Head in from "Tilly Jane" trail head 5 plus miles.   In the summer when the road is open you can drive all the way up to "Cloud Cap"


  4. How to Climb ice in Oregon in May

    Step 1)   Refer to, How to climb ice in Oregon in March.

    Step 2)   Do that, because the ice is still there.

    Its bleached and sugary on the surface, and may not last too much longer.  So go get it now, cause, where else ya gunna go find water ice in May.

     

    IMG_2068.JPG

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  5. Went back up onto the Eliot Glacier yesterday.   The ice is still in good shape.

    Got me thinking however.   I've not seen or heard this climb named anywhere.   I've no doubt this thing has been climbed many times, cause, if your hiking up the Eliot, well there it is in full view.    It's at 8000 feet and forms up early most years.   So I came up with a name for it.    I'd like to call it  "The Cooper 30"  Cause it's 30m tall hangs off Cooper Spur.

    If anyone knows of it being named previously please speak up.

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  6. Location:

    Cape Horn Columbia Gorge.

    Take Cape Horn road, off Hwy 14, to the end (gate). Continue walking down the road (this is a private drive way) to the rail line. Follow the rail line west, down stream, (this is BNSF private property). Approximately 100 yards short of the rail tunnel, the climb can be found on a cliff band 50 yards up and above the rail.

     

    Route:

    50m WI4

    The first 10 meters lays back a bit, then sustained WI4 to the top. The ice ends in frozen brush. 5 meters through the brush to a rap tree.

    The water weeps out of the tree line above the cliff and is not associated with a major drainage.

     

    This climb was repeated today by Yeman, Andreu, Tohper and Jeff.

    The name Wind Walker seemed appropriate given the 60mph wind gusts we were climbing in.

     

    The Gorge ice right now is in better shape than most people can remember.

    Yeman and I also climbed Nancy's Run today, in awesome shape.

    Tomorrow may its last day.

     

    Peter

    P1140281.jpg


  7. Falling in a crevasse is a serious business. When it happened to us while descending the Muldrow, it took two of us to stop the one that went in.

    One climber trying to stop another needs quick response and perfect form.

    Keep it safe.

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