Jeff Lougee

Robert, Thanks for the reply. We are definitely psyched about the trip and really looking forward to seeing and climbing in the Cascades - first time for both of us. We'll probably keep the rack light since it sounds like we won't be running into long parallel sided crack systems with nothing but hand sized cams for pro. Have you learned anything else about the traverse where it sounds like you think you might have been off route? We'd like to avoid the pitch of choss if possible; perhaps the 5.10 crack climbing a la the left hand variation is the way to go. One more question: do you feel like boots are warranted for the approach - would prefer to use approach shoes with crampons where needed, but it sounds like we've got some sig. time on snow to the base of the route. Cheers, Jeff

Hi robertm, Thanks for the great post, and I was glad to see folks are getting out and doing this route; sounds incredible. I'm planning to head out there sometime the third week of August, and wanted to ask you about your rack suggestion. It seems like most descriptions of the route describe hand/fist cracks and some wider cracks, but you say gear to 3 inches. I see you mentioned there are other opportunities for other (smaller) pro.; is this true throughout the route where the cracks are fist size (4 inches presumably) or wider? My partner and I are relatively comfortable on 5.10 cracks and would love to obviously minimize the load on the hike out there! Again, awesome post, great photos, and really helpful in terms of our planning for a trip out there. Also, does anyone know if there are any recent reports of the status of the pocket glacier on Slesse? That was another route we were considering, but were hoping the pocket would fall out. Thanks, Jeff

Thanks for the replies, suggestions, and spell-check feature. Isn't Sleese up there in Canadia? Cheers, Jeff

A friend and I were thinking of climbing the Northeast Buttress on Sleese sometime the third week of August. We've heard that a hanging glacier gaurding the traverse onto the route can be an issue, but melts out in some seasons. I was wondering if anyone has any beta on the currrent conditions of the route, especially the status of the glacier, but any other info. would be welcome too! Thanks, Jeff Lougee Jackson, New Hampshire