Noodle

No problem, enjoyed reading your Cooper-Kor TR!

Trip: Bugaboos - Pigeon Spire West Ridge (5.4, 500m), Central Crescent Tower - Lion's Way (5.6, 6p) Date: 7/12/2014 - 7/18/2014 Trip Report: The Bugaboos are a collection of peaks in the Purcell Mountains of eastern British Columbia consisting of granite spires that tower dramatically over heavily glaciated terrain. MikeP and I spent 5 amazing days in this alpine climbing mecca. We left right after work Friday and after spending the night at a friend’s cabin in Sandpoint, ID and 30 miles of dirt roads, we arrived at the trailhead Saturday afternoon with Flight of the Valkyries blaring over the speakers as Hounds Tooth, Snowpatch Spire, and the Bugaboo Glacier came into view. Packing, wrapping the car in chicken wire, and mosquito killing then began in earnest. Now, we had reservations for 6 nights in the Kain Hut where things like a bunk, running water, kitchenware, propane stoves, toilet paper, and power outlets are provided. Despite these luxuries it turns out that a 6 day pack with climbing gear weighs a metric a**-load. Combine this with the unbearable heat and it took between forever and an eternity to get to the hut. Alastair, the hut custodian, greeted us and explained the ins and outs. Shortly thereafter we both agreed that due to our off-the-couchness and struggle lugging the pigs we deserved a rest day which we spent scoping out the Bugaboo Glacier alternate approach for the west ridge of Pigeon Spire, and then traversed over to the trail between Applebee Camp and the Kain Hut for a nice loop. Pigeon Spire’s west ridge was our plan for Monday. The previous evening we met two women who had the same plan so we teamed up for the glacier travel approach. We all found the Bugaboo Glacier approach that follows along the south side of Snowpatch Spire and Pigeon Spire to be very pleasant and asthetic, esp compared to going up Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. MikeP and I simul-climbed most of the ridge with the exception of the two short sections of 5.4. The route was simply spectacular with endless fun easy climbing on incredible rock with views and exposure that didn’t stop. By the time we got back down to the base of the ridge weather was clearly on its way in so we boogied back down the glacier, getting drizzled on just a bit. Later that evening it dumped while we enjoyed some quality reading time in the hut. We were pretty spent so we took another rest day, planning to climb the Kain route on Bugaboo Spire the following day. We were up at 3 AM and made our way to Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and the base of the Kain route. Cracks were opening but it was passable without any shenanigans. I had spent half of the previous day in the outhouse and by the time we got to the Col I was nauseous and generally feeling like crap so we bailed. I was feeling better by evening and wanting to get on something else for our last day, we chose Lion’s Way (5.6, 6p) on Central Crescent Tower. The approach is mellow and short, and we were at the base of the route in just over an hour. The route starts out with some 4th class climbing and then is mostly low 5th class with the exception of the 5.6 corner which was shorter than I expected (maybe 20’) and really fun. The summit was comfy and provided great views, esp. of the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. Maybe next time! Gear Notes: 60m rope. Standard alpine rack for Lion’s Way, err on the side of more cams and less nuts. Lighter rack for Pigeon (we used light protection, 30m simul climbing). Lightweight boots, aluminum crampons and ax. Glacier travel gear recommended for the alternate approach to Pigeon depending on time of year. Things were melting FAST.

Maybe Tricouni NE face?

Woah, awesome!

Trip: Trappers Peak - South Ridge Date: 6/12/2011 Trip Report: John and I climbed Trapper’s Peak in what I would call spring snow scramble conditions. The ridge was mostly snow covered with a few areas of exposed trail. There were large cornices on the east side of the ridge, but it was easy to keep a safe distance. The short steep gully that you reach soon after gaining the ridge was snow filled but thinning out enough that we were punching through to slick rock/heather. This was probably the trickiest part of the climb. We trended left near the summit onto rock & heather to avoid steep snow. Compared to my trip last September the summit was almost unrecognizable save a rock fin just to the north. If my memory serves, based on the bit exposed there’s proabably 5-6 feet of snow up there. Gear Notes: Ice ax Approach Notes: Road is in good shape. Patchy snow around 3500’, continuous snow by 3800’. In the trees the snow is perfect for booting. Out in the open and after it warms up things are a bit softer. Streams are running high and fast, especially in the afternoon. There are two crossings on the old road section of the trail that are tricky but do-able. Thorton lakes are still all snow/ice covered.

I always wear a helmet on rock. Local crag = no approach, why not wear one. Alpine = pain to carry it in, but consequence of injury is higher (though a rock to the head at your local crag is likely to be serious as well). Honestly, the Petzl Meteor is so light and breathable it leaves few excuses.

Yeah, hard to complain!

Trip: Forbidden Peak - West Ridge Date: 10/1/2010 Trip Report: Attempted the west ridge, spending the night in Boston basin. Fall colors are out in force and this being my first time in the basin I have to say it is one of the most spectacular places I've ever been. Weather was spectacular and there was plenty of water all the way to high camp. Morning Star creek was running fast, but the crossing was do-able. We arrived after about 4 hours and set up our bivy. We headed out the next morning at about 6:30 with moonlight and the first signs of sunrise, weaving our way up the polished granite slabs. We made our way towards the alternate gulley (couloir is long out of shape) on icy moderately steep snow. The exit off the snow is getting thin but is still do-able, though a fall there would be bad. From here we pitched out the gulley, which was downsloping, wet, and in many places quite loose; we spent way too much time getting up it. In retrospect, staying out of the gulley on the left side where the rappel stations are (which we did about half way up) may be a better option. We felt that there were several 5th class steps, but again maybe we were off route. Once we got to the ridge, it was clear that we were running late... ah for the longer days of summer. We decided to keep going and see how fast progress would be now that we were out of the gulley. After simul-climbing about 1/3 of the way up the ridge we reached the first vertical barrier, checked our watches, and decided to bail. Once on the ridge, the route delivers with amazing exposure, scenery, and climbing. Once back at the saddle, we walked down to the first rap station, and did four or five raps back to our gear (all raps stay out of the gulley except for the last which deposits you at the base). We carefully downclimbed snow to easier slopes and arrived at camp 10 hours after starting which would be reasonable if we had actually made it to the summit . Got back to the car at about 8:30 PM. Pictures at: http://picasaweb.google.com/adamlandefeld/ForbiddenPeakWestRidge# Gear Notes: 7.7mm 60m rope, medium rack, crampons Approach Notes: Steep, easy to follow. Morning Star creek is running fast, but there is at least one possible crossing that will keep your feet mostly dry. Tons of water available.

I'm not a skier, but I definitely was thinking that the place was a skier/boarder paradise!

Trip: Gothic Peak - Date: 2/21/2010 Trip Report: 11.5 miles, 4500' gain TH: 8 AM Summit block: 2 PM TH: 5:30 PM Left the trailhead under clear skies and chilly temperatures. It's really amazing how little snow there is... didn't hit any on the trail until 3500'. Snow was solid after the gully/creek crossings. Crampons were quite useful down low in the morning and on the way down when the snow was frozen. A group from Saturday had put in a trail to the saddle south of Gothic at 5440'. We continued to the summit block, traversing occasionally to avoid rocky outcrops. We decided not to go for the summit, not feeling comfortable with conditions on the summit block without a rope for protecting the ascent and for rappel. Snow conditions felt generally safe, though there were varying crusts and wind pack to keep you on your toes. But even on lee slopes the wind pack was not very cohesive and felt fine. Now for the pictures. All I can say is OMG winter wonderland! Basin below Foggy Lake Near Foggy Lake Del Campo Gothic Peak Approaching the summit block Sheep Gap Mountains Gear Notes: Crampons, snowshoes (not used), rope would've been useful for summit block Approach Notes: Snow free until 3500'. After making the first creek crossing on the traverse, do not follow the tracks going straight uphill. Continue traversing, cross the second creek, and follow the tracks (summer trail).

We chickened out given the low snow and ended up making what is likely the first sled descent of Hex Mountain.

hnn... Doesn't sound too promising. Driving by it in the summer, the rock looks like sh**

Will do! The north slope looks cool and I wonder about it every time I drive past in the winter. In the words of my climbing buddy "Sounds stupid...I'm in"

I'm wondering how much snow is on the north side of Peoh Point/Cle Elum Point right now. Pics would be sweet!

Good call! Probably one of the small varieties like bearberry. Thanks!