I'm moving from Florida to Eugene in June to get a master's of architecture. A friend (and her friend) and I wanted to climb Mt Adams this summer, and I want to get involved with more serious mountaineering as well.
I've done a fair amount of backpacking and modest climbing in NY, TN and NC mainly easy slab/scrambling, winter snowshoe ascents and limited top-roped rock. I also ski (alpine and tele). I have basic backpacking and winter gear, but have never used an ice axe or crampons. I have a pair of 30" snowshoes, long poles, plastic Scarpa boots, synthetic mid-weight hiking boots and lighter hiking sneakers. I also have a snow shovel, gaiters, a 0-deg down bag, lighter synthetic bag and a GPS. I have read most of Freedom of the Hills, and plan to finish/re-read/study it more.
I am more experienced than my friend, and I am unsure of her friend's experience (hopefully he is more experienced than me - I expect so, as they were planning on going before I was invited). I am 26, tall and slender (not very strong at 6'1", 145lb), and haven't done any conditioning (yet). I don't have any 'active' interests here in FL so I'm a bit out of shape for a skinny young guy, but otherwise healthy.
From what I gather about the S Mt Adams route, the biggest things will be conditioning/altitude and axe/crampons on some moderately steep/hard snow slopes (but no need for ropes). I should start conditioning now. I should also get an axe and crampons and find some self-arrest and crampon instruction/practice. Is this something I can just read/practice a lot, and have experienced people show me? What exactly is 'necessary' before we try Mt Adams in the summer? Is it more of a 'put the crampons on so you don't slip, take a couple of practice steps, and you'll figure it out?'
After this climb, I plan to improve my technical skills further, take an avalanche class, get involved with a club, etc. I assume there are local clubs around Eugene, as well as a UOregon club. Will I be able to get most of the necessary instruction/experience from these clubs (for free/cheap), or will it still be necessary to invest more $ to take formal classes as well?
I'm trying to plan my gear out, so I have what I need, without breaking the bank. I think a light-weight aluminum crampon would be suitable, I saw some recommendations in another post. I'm not sure if I should get the strap-on type to be able to use with my regular hiking boots/shoes, or the step-ins which would only work with my plastic boots. I'm also not sure if I need a sturdier pair of synthetic boots, or if I should just wear the plastic ones for most climbing (in summer?) where more support is needed?
What about ice axes? What details should I look for? I didn't see any posts about this specifically (though I didn't really look yet).
Reading about the climb, I realized I need a 'real' tent that will stand up to wind (and snow?). Should I just bite the bullet and get a 4-season tent? I probably need snow/rock anchors too for high-mountain camping? In past winter trips, I've used a 3-season backpacking tent (long gone now) and 2 sleeping bags, and been ok down to -30F. That was in the Adirondacks below 4,000' and I know the NW is a much harsher enviornment. Would I want goggles high on Adams in case it stormed? How about a helmet?
I'll also (eventually) need a real insulating later (down parka), which I haven't needed in the past. I wouldn't need this to climb Adams though (I've got wind-block fleeces, gore-tex shell, etc).
I'm guessing the next major expense will be avalanche gear (and class), and a harness/helmet? I can possibly use others' gear (rope/rack) for a while as I learn?
Will that be enough to get me started, so I can start going out with people who might be kind enough to 'show me the ropes'? Am I missing anything major? I'm a pretty cautious person, so I'm not going to go running up Mt Rainer. I want to get to the point where I can safely learn from those who are more experienced than me, without being a hazard/liability.
I'm really looking forward to moving out there, as I love the mountains, and really miss them since living in FL for 3 years now. I stumbled upon this group today, which has REALLY made me excited, reminding me of the many new things I'll get to do now!
Hopefully I can find some used gear online in time for our planned climb this summer, and save a few $$.
Aaron