Vickster
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Posts posted by Vickster
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120 you got a deal...
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I am selling 2 new packs.
The first is an Osprey Exposure 50 Large. $140obo SOLD
The second is a Arcteryx Bora 95 Tall. This pack is totally new except it is missing the helmet guard thingie. Asking $250.
I would prefer a local Seattle buyer, they cost to much to ship. Thanks for looking!
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I am selling a 1992 is REI Gore - Tex Alpine Suit. The thing is like brand new and would fit a climber 6'2" up to 6'6" well. I myself am 6'6" and it's perfect. The suit is missing the original belt but I made a belt out of 2" webbing and added a clip buckle. It is totally retro cool. So if you want to look like the guy in the left in this photo http://mountrainierconditions.blogspot.com/2008/01/gibralter-ledges-2008.html now is your big chance. $215, not going any lower, its too cool to sell for less ;p
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Is it this Suunto S6 that I can get new for $20 bucks less new? Just wondering!
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I checked it out, the place is nice but there wasn't as much storage as I need. He is planning to bump the rent to $550 in few months. Nice place, nice loc.
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I wear my green superfeet in my Nepals. One thing I did notice is that my Nepals took longer to break in than any other boot I've ever owned. The first 8 mile hike I did in my Nepals they tore me up (and boots NEVER tear me up)... all the friction points where different then my other boots. After the 5th hike where I really got some sweat in them, they just seamed to relaxed. Now I can run in them and they feel great. Not sure if the boot broke in or my foot got broke in, perhaps it was a little of both going on.
One other thing, I learned a new blister cure. If you get a big half dollar size blister. The first night after you have gotten it, tear off the skin and spread some of the banana boat aloe gel on it real thick, by the next day you will be able to hike on it. Some kinda of magic I tell ya!
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What the subject says!
Check it out here:
Jim
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Selling an Arcteryx Theta AR size XL, color Indigo, for $315. It has been warn like 3 times and is in like new condition.SOLD
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Liquidation prices, don't make me bust out the chainsaw!
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Regular or Long?
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I am looking for an adult Grivel Gladiator Helmet that is fully functional.
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Price reduced again!
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I sent an email that contained the same question I asked here. This is the response I received:
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Hi Jim,
Your comments are all good. There is always an open debate on the use of mechanical devices in certain uses such as a Z-Pulley. One disadvantage is that they destroy a rope faster, often after just a few uses.
One of my trips to Rainier, we jumped into a crevasse near Camp Muir for practice. We went down about 75 feet and tried to climb our way out. The wall of the crevasse was to poor to use ice tools and ultimately we had to get out using the self-rescue method with ascenders or prusik knots, which ever your choice was. Although we setup the Z-Pulley system above the
crevasse, we chose to practice self-rescue. It is rather difficult to setup a prusik knot when hanging, especially if you have only one hand available. If it was very cold, that would make it even more difficult.
The advantage of the ascender was one hand operation and the ease by which it could be moved up the rope. If you are setting up the Z-Pulley system with two people, one acting as an anchor while the other builds the Z-Pulley system the saving in time is often an important factor. In 2005 I took a group of 12 fellow climbers up Rainier and one day we took a private course with RMI. Brent Okita was our instructor (
http://www.rmiguides.com/about/guides/brent_okita.html ) which was especially satisfying based on his experience. We practiced the system a few times and there we used mixed prusik and ascender setups. There appeared to be no preference by our instructor on this issue.
Now on the technical side, you can find good information on the
manufacturers site at:
http://en.petzl.com/ProduitsServices/B17_ASCENSBAS_B17504-H.pdf
The manufacturers reference a international standard called "Personal fall protection - Rope access systems - Rope adjustment devices" which has a document number EN 12841: 2006. I have never been able to get my hands on one as it is only available to purchase, around $135.
Within this standard it does call for a backup system to be in place which is another type of mechanical device. However, in practice this is never done with prusik or mechanical setups.
A single ascender is rated between 900 - 1450 pounds dead weight on a rope(depending on rope diameter/condition). That seams pretty good to me.
Good Luck,
Ed
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In response to Sobo, I have a pair of Tiblocs but have a hard time fitting my big hands in a standard beaner to climb with them. I guess I could use them with a couple big ass HMS beaners.
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why does reason #2 have anything to do with your decision to use ascenders?
The load put on the foot prussik is significant making the knot difficult to free. Bottom line, I want to be as self sufficient as possible and get the hell out, not spend an hour or longer trying to free knot and then warm up my hands. I have always been about 60lbs heavier then any other climber I have climbed with and assume I will fall farther into a crevasse before I am stopped than say someone of equal weight of the other party memebers. Essentially I am trying to prepare for worst case scenarios where I take the typical short 5-10ft fall then start to drag people... or pendulum in and have to climb out 40 ft or more.
There is also the case to be made that if I am someplace remote I would have better chances climbing with with ascenders with an injured arm etc. I guess it comes down to preference and I am still trying to figure out what works for me.
I would of course not climb with the ascenders on the rope... they would be on my harness, backed up, and ready to get out when needed. I am going to pick up that mountaineers self rescue book, it looks cool.
I also pinged the guy who wrote that page... I will post his response when I get it.
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Is setting up a Z pulley rescue system like the one displayed here http://www.highpeaksclimbing.com/Training/ZPulley.htm safe?
I have read in a few instructional books that all clearly state mechanical ascenders are ALL designed to be "used under body weight only" and should not be used in any rescue system.
The combination of the facts that: 1) I often end up in the middle of a rope team on a glacier 2) I am 6'6" 250 with huge feet 3) my hands chill easy so I don't want to mess with prussik knots bare handed 4)I don't mind ballast because I often travel faster than anyone I am roped to. All led to my decision to bring mechanical ascenders on climbs for my own self rescue.
I figured that using the ascenders in a Z pulley rescue system looked like a pretty trick idea since I already have them on me. That is if the system displayed is a reliable and safe way of hauling someone out of a crevasse.
Anyhow, I would like to hear what some of the experienced guys have to say. In the meantime I was going to rig up something similar to what is in that diagram and fool around with it. I do not want to endanger someone by using some microwave ready crevasse rescue I found on the internet. However, if something can be done that is faster and better, why the hell not do it?
Jim
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I want to do this route... I've done a number of dog routes around here and feel ready to man up. I get Monday and Tuesdays off... can work extra days off around that.
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Mt. Stuart via the Cacadian Couloir or the next notch to the east on the South side. Mt. Hood via the Old Chute. Granite Mountain is great for training, just pick an appropriate route based on the avalanche conditions. Depending on snowpack St. Helens is good until mid June ish? While Adams is good into early July. If you go to either late in the summer, be prepared to scale a scorching heap of desolate shit.
Anyhow, pick routes appropriate for your skill level, if you see something and your testicals ascend back into your abdomen, you might want to consider passing.
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2 Winters ago I considered snow shoeing in 8 miles and climbing Mt. Adams, then I decided to just throw away my crack pipe.
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Hehe, I saw that bag in the gear garage and skipped on it, however;I did get the North Face Fission Long for 35 bucks... Excuse for the return = "didn't like"
The thing had never been used not once.
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Price reduced!
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I have nothing but positive things to say about the ID eVent Unishelter.... I'm 6'6", 240... There is room enough to stick my size 48 boots above my head and still not have the mesh door on my face when I sleep. The little vent is handy too, I don't have to rebreath my own bad breath all night. In addition there is just enough room for me to change my cothes inside it while zipped up.
For big dudes it's really the only way to go, for someone smaller it would be a castle... a guy half my size wedge a woman in there and really heat things up.
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If I know I am going up with slow peeps I will go with my comfy FF Raven made with Epic.... and when I go with the fast peeps it's the Viero in Nano. I sleep in the buck, cheaper bags have bigger seams and rub my junk... FF is the way to go...
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Ground Repel Jacket XL, made with eVent Fabric - $75 - SOLD
REI Taku Jacket XL - Essentially new from the basement with a minor repair to the inner mesh with seamgrip - $55
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I tried on a Arc'tyrx Fission LT in XL, they fit VERY small. If you consider one, try one on before buying...
Selling: Osprey Exposure 50 Large and Bora 95 Tall
in The Yard Sale
Posted
Sorry, I got 120 for it.