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Posts posted by gruntpltleader

  1. Trip: MT Washington - North Ridge


    Date: 7/13/2010


    Trip Report:

    A buddy and I decided to attempt Mt Washington to escape the heat of the valley. we stepped of on the pct at a truly late start 0730, cranked the Ipod with the mollies and headed for the climbers cairn. we made good time and eventually gained the ridge. we both decided at this point that we were 1 old, 2, fat and 3 unexperienced. we fueled up and headed to the saddle arriving 6 hours after beginning. There was an outward bound group rapping down to the saddle and would keep it busy for at least another hour. At this point my buddy chickened out and would go no further. I did not feel comfortable climbing the pitch without a belay and we headed down. absolutely beautiful views from the north ridge and will have to come back in a couple of weeks with a new partner.


    Gear Notes:

    slings, 60m rope, 20 lbs of fat on way up, 180 lbs of chicken on the final pitch


    Approach Notes:

    lots of snow still and this led to some bushwacking, but as long as you are going up you will gain the ridge. gps coord for climbers cairn led to easy nav

  2. " Reminds me of the time we were lost in the wilds of Afghanistan. We lost our corkscrew and were compelled to live on food and water for several days!!"

    -- W.C. Fields I think.

  3. Surf's up dude. heat your screws with a lighter, and touch them to some Mr. Zoggs Sex Wax. They slide into wood like the Seventh Fleet into your sister!!( just kidding) it really works though

  4. Let me know exactly where it is, but I don't think the the CRFB's came that far south. I think it is part of the Little Butte Volcanics or some of the other older cascade volcanics. College geology is kind of fuzzy yet, but look in Geology of Oregon, Orr and Orr. They would know if any one.

  5. If you head into portland try Dr. Crawford at OHSU. I didn't tear the ACL, but completely tore the PCL, Meniscus, and a bone fragment when the PCL detatched. Portland Knee Clinic referred me to him. Great guy, and one of the best surgeons on the west coast.


    A big plus is to do as much physical therapy prior to the surgury as possible. It really speeds up the healing process, as your muscles will atrophy very quickly.


    I don't know how you feel about cadaver parts or allografts, but from what I read and what the doc's told me that they heal faster and stronger. You are not taking pieces of tendon from other parts of your leg/knee.



    It totalled my climbing time last spring, summer, but I am looking forward to this year.


    good luck!



  6. I've been on a lot of forces marches with considerable weight for distance and time. The best bet for me was powder gold bond medicated or vaseline if you are really going to push it, IE 20 miles in 6-8 hours. And going commando with loose fitting clothing. Baby wipes were considered mission critical for long days in the feild where hygene can be poor at best.


    Nothing beats general conditioning, just hiking/road marching alot.

  7. A buddy of mine gave me his merrells that fit really well and fit my crampons. He only used them a couple of times. I am looking into the soles idea. I plan on picking up some nikwax to waterproof them, unless some one has a better product. I wish I did live near seattle, but the Oregon Coast is home for me. Way to far away from anything cool.(except for surfing) Thanks for all of your input.

  8. Plus, for overnight trips, it's way easier to dry out a separate inner than it is to dry out a leather boot.


    And if you forget your pee bottle you can just piss in the shell and empty it out the door :D


    I usually stuff a snaffle in each boot to dry them and empty the pellets out in the morning.


    Thanks for the comments 1 Question


    A. What the hell is a snaffle?


    As much as I detest REI I am planning to go to the REI used gear sale this weekend. also looking at ebay after I try on a few boots for sizes.


    Ranier won't be until next year at least. I kind of want to get the main Oregon volcanos first. 4 planned this summer and maybe a couple of day trips.


    I am concerned about plastic boots on long approach marches IE Jefferson, Baker, and others.

  9. Help!!

    I finally decided to buy boots vs rent. I have heard good things about la sportiva makalu's. Any comments?


    Also is it really worth it to buy plastic when I will be doing very few if any winter climbs and no vert ice climbing?


    I know boots are judged very subjectivly, but a real objective comparison is what I need as like most I'm on a budget and like get most for the money!



  10. I appreciate the input. All of the above is right what I had already heard with the exception that flukes can be a pain in the ass to rack. Upside is that they could be used as an emergency shovel. I have only climbed Mt. Hood south side route and now am hooked. The guy that I am learning from is a very experienced climber. He has a long list of summits and as a school teacher climbs all summer long. He has been doing it a long time and he carries a fluke and a picket among other appropriate protection. I have a half formed goal to climb all of the Cascades at least once, and will climb safely and conservatively as well. I don't want any freinds in the oregon guard to have to tvcome and save me!!!! May to September is really my climbing window. Once again any input would be great.