Moof
-
Posts
108 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Moof
-
-
if you decide to swap out the anchor at the top of pipedream, joe, be sure to change out the other anchor 30 meters lower and halfway over to jensens - i thought about stopping there first until i got even w/ and got a good look at it!
Said anchor is now redone. Pipedream was all oozy and nasty looking, so I aided the next left, whatever it was. Lots of fun, without ooze or excess spice.
New bolts are 3/8" stainless with the Fixe double ring hangers (no rap webbing required). FYI, the pitch is 115' long from the leftmost bolts aboveWindsurfer, and ~180-190' from the ground (two 60m ropes will get you down in one rap).
Rack is triple aliens blue to red (especially red), double camalots #0.75 to #3 (save some for the top), lots of draws, few small offset nuts helpful but more than a single set of regular nuts is overkill.
Fixed line is still up so I can get back next weekend for the two jingus lead bolts, and hopefully get up to the Pipeline anchor too.
For the record, the bolts were pretty standard 1 1/4"x1/4" bolts. One button head, one threaded, both with SMC non-stainless hangers. Holes were reused. If someone wants them for their twisted sense of posterity, they can have them. Maybe we can permanently leave some Gatorade bottles at the base to remind folks of the days when littering was more common too.
-
My gri-gri bitches more than I did belaying you for the whole 5 f'ing hours.... Well, till now.
-
Joseph,
My plan is to be out there aiding up Pipedream to get a line fixed for rebolting purposes. If you're interested in that for the first part of the day I'd love a real belayer. If you just want to do free climbing stuff I would be up for that instead. I'll be out there at about 8-8:30 either way.
-
FYI, I have a double A5 TNF Deluxe Cabana fly that I think fits the BD ledge (anyone know for sure?), and no ledge. It is brand new, never use, never sealed (still have the tube of seam grip I'll include). I'll sell it for a fair offer if anyone needs a budget rainfly. I'd sell for $200 OBO (50% of the BD price), maybe less, maybe do some trading too.
-
PM sent.
-
Price dropped to 160, shipping included.
-
Yeah, screw climbing in the rain/wind today...
Ivan, weekend looks decent with "few showers", so I'm going to try fixing lines Saturday instead. If you want to join up for the bolting fun on Sunday, that would be greatly appreciated.
-
Gonna try and fix lines tomorrow. No bolting till the weekend, as soloing in the rain will be slow at best... I also have to see if I can scrounge up some shorter bolts, looks like I am down to just a couple shorty SS Rawls, the rest are 3.5" beasts (what was I thinking!).
Not sure of other folks plans, but if you see an icicle dangling in the amphitheater tomorrow, that'll be me.
Cheers.
-
Bought in mid 2003, an only a dozen pitches on it. I haven't used it since early 2004, so it's time to set it free. Just not much of a soloist. Original owners manual in good condition is included, but my wife ran off with the camera before I could snap a pic of it (PDF: http://www.mountaintools.com/cat/rclimb/belayrap/images/silentmanual.pdf).
Shipping included for US, paypal preferred. PM me, or email seann_wooleryATyahooDOTcom.
-
Joseph,
I love when a clear cut consensus exists. How about the bolts all magically get refreshed, and nothing gets said about them. Given the state of Pipedream when Ivan went up it, it'll likely be years before Opdyke notices (if ever). Problem solved?
-
Good job making Cosumnes look like less of a dive than it is.
-
-
So he'd really rather have an extra hole than to recycle the old one? That's messed up...
-
Leave the original? Maybe I'm misreading you there Ivan. My intent was to pull and replace that first lead bolt (as well as the top anchor bolts), and our saying local ethics say not to do that? Really?
Top anchor bolts are on the hit list, and I'll take the stuff for the ones off left halfway to Jensens as well, but they'd be secondary (dependent on sunlight).
If it doesn't happen this weekend, I'll take you up on the New Years offer.
-
I'm thinking that a repeat of this (with bolt kit) is in order. Maybe fix lines on this Friday or Saturday, then go back the next to rebolt both anchors.
Anyone interested? Ivan? Joseph?
I'll lead and provide anchor materials, lines for fixing, etc.
-
It wasn't that windy out there!
OK, it was...
I spent my day running aid laps up the first half of Free for Some, then huddling behind a big rock, snickers at Ivan's suffering. One of those days where you hands and legs are numb, but your shirt is soaked in sweat.
Good times.
-
Planck's Constant roof in Yosemite! Ok, I needed 2 big green machines, as I was aiding the beast the whole way. Having 3 would have been better...
Present big gear is:
#5 Tech Friend
#5 C4
#5 Camalot (last generation)
#6 Tech Friend
#7 Yates Big Dude
#9 Valley Cam
Gotta try that next pitch of wrong gull...
-
Billcoe said: "5 hours? WTF"
Hey! That's my line!
Pissing required waiting for a lull in the traffic. Last thing I needed was a public indecency charge while climbing with someone as felonious as Ivan. I'd probably get an extra frisking just for climbing with him.
-
I'll donate some stainless bolts and hangers to the cause if that helps. As long as I don't have to sit at the Windsurfer belay for another 5 hours...
-
Ivan,
Monday's open. Hack our way up some disaster at Beacon? Count me in.
-
Looking for a partner for this weekend, any or all days. Anything from local cragging at Beacon, Broughton, Rocky Butte, etc, or as far out as a 2-3 day Smith trip. Just gotta get out onto something other than plywood and plastic, ugh...
Have car, rack, rope. Will lead up to 5.8ish, follow 5.9'ish. Looking for trad mostly, but will belay and follow sport if that's what it takes. Also up for aid stuff if you suffer from that affliction, but would prefer to mostly do free.
Won't kill you.
-
Yo, where was everyone today? Scared off by signage maybe? Weather was a bit sticky but not really hot at all, yet there was a grand total of one party and one touron at the base?! Wimpage...
Anyway, SE Corner was a blast, Jill's was new to me and a major blast, but that 5.8 just left of SE Corner's start was kinda stout for 5.8. The master cam lodged in there is still there. I worked it for a half hour and got 3 lobes moving, but deepest lobe eluded me and I had to give up. Maybe the last lobe will bust loose with some "loving" with a few hammer taps... Presently it is still not overly beat up, but the trigger wires (cords?) are all toast.
-
Good plan Ivan. After all, what's the worst that could happen. Last solo aid outing only cost my 3/4 of my index finger's nail, and a factor one onto the anchor. Good times...
Gotta get back to that route this fall and redeem!
Anyone up for a super cruiser wall this fall? With a name like Mideast Crisis, there's no way the trip won't pay for itself!
-
Wish I could Ivan!
Gotta get my fat ass outside... Anyone want a fat belay slave for Saturday? Trad, TR, Aid, etc?
[TR] Beacon Rawk - Windsurfer/Pipedream 9/1/2008
in Oregon Cascades
Posted · Edited by Moof
Dave,
I have no idea where the Gatorade came from, as it clearly had some velocity on impact. It's becoming a tradition to pack out at least one drink container per trip. Last time it was a funky Jolt color mega-sized can. Lots of folks stash their cans and bottle under a rock to foil wind and gravity, then forget to retrieve on their way out. I was more commenting on the baffling and unique museum ethics of adding holes to allow museumification of the stations.
I'd love any pics you got, their just fun.