Bosterson
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Posts posted by Bosterson
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patagonia and arteryx were discovered, however they still have a line for people who actually climb.
That's debatable. North Face has a line for people who actually climb, but that doesn't mean their stuff is any good. Arc'teryx has expanded to the point where they have a dozen different versions of each niche in their jacket lineup, and from newer items of theirs I've tried on, their cut (which, all techie-ness aside, was the most important way in which their outerwear was light years ahead of everyone else's when it first came out) seems to have ballooned out.
I used to work at a Patagonia store and while they do have an OK outerwear line, the cut again is not made for climbers. (In fact, all of their clothes have been sized out for obesity.) They are also unrepentant about the fact that the sales are in the non-technical clothing line. I'm not trying to make this a discussion of whether companies should expand, go multinational, try to make a profit, etc. However, some companies, like Feathered Friends, have managed to maintain a high level of quality while keeping their production domestic. Their stuff isn't cheap, but then neither is Patagonia or Arc'teryx. (And Arc'teryx's whole selling point was that it was spendy but it was made in Canada. Now it's made overseas.) Point being that there definitely is some quality we are referring to when we differentiate between outerwear companies that are "real" vs ones that aren't.
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Outside of Horsethief and Bulo Meadow, are there any other worthy spots that an HR boulderer should know about?
There are a couple of boulders at Beacon, off to the left of the trail to the top (in the foresty area), Hwy 14 side. I'm not sure it's worth making an entire trip just for them though...
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PLEASE stay far far away from this route, give up climbing, and die of some completely natural, painful, slowly progressive disease.
I think that's pretty much the only sane response to caring about route grading.
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I second the notion to crash in a corner of someone else's site (ask or don't, though I'd bet the 6-pack would help), then get up at the crack of dawn to be first in line at the kiosk for a permit. I wouldn't go up into the talus field above Camp 4 because the rangers supposedly do patrol up there. (I think that's where they caught Chongo?) I've had people crash in my site, so I think if you just find another group of climbers (not tourists!), they'd be happy to let you join them - especially if you have beer.
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I know this is kind of specific, but I have a red Arc'teryx Bora 35, size regular, in very good condition. I'm looking for an Osprey Stratos 24, also size regular, also in good condition - thinking the panel loading and water bladder compartment would be more useful for me. Straight trade. I can take some pics of my pack if you want.
Email sxeclimber at (yahoo) dotcom. Thanks!
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Update: REI had a sale so I got a new headlamp. No more headlamp trades, but I would trade it instead for a nice compass, maybe something else (updating my gear for backpacking trips this summer). Let me know what you have, or else if you just want to buy it, the Zenix is now $25!
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BD Zenix IQ headlamp. Perfect shape - only used it a few times. Really nice, with center spotlight and two side proximity lights, battery meter, tilt and variable brightness settings, etc. Would make a good climbing headlamp. Problem for me is that I want something I can lie down in a tent with and not have the battery pack behind my head!
$30 or looking to trade for BD Cosmo/Spot or Petzl Tikka Plus.
Mad Rock Splash (sort of like their version of a 5.10 Anasazi Velcro), red, size 7.5 US/40 Euro. Used for one night at the gym but too narrow (so like new aside from chalk). $35
Another pair of Splashes that I bought by mistake - this one is brown, size 8 US/41 Euro. Never worn. $40
Shipping possible (maybe included for the shoes?) but local pickup in Portland preferred. I'll be out of town from 4/23-4/26, but email if you're interested.
sxeclimber (at) yahoo (dot) com
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Sportiva Vipers, size Euro 39 (fits like 7.5-8 US). Used once, but too small. Rubber is perfect. Still have the box. $50
Mad Rock Flash, size 7.5 US (fits like an 8). Mad Rock's version of the Five Ten Anasazi Velcro, only unlined! None of that stupid techie crap Mad Rock puts on their shoes - a classic. (Only sold on their website.) Used once, but too narrow for my foot. Rubber is still perfect. Still have the box. $35
Prefer to sell locally in Portland. Shipping is possible, just get in touch.
sxeclimber (at) yahoo (dot) com.
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Never used. $75 includes Priority Mail to anywhere in the US, or pickup in Portland if you're local.
PM or email sxeclimber (at) yahoo (dot) com.
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SOLD SOLD SOLD
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North Face Foxfire Endurance sleeping bag, regular length, right zip, rated to 0 degrees F. (3 lbs 3 oz.) Features 800 fill down and a waterproof Pertex Endurance shell. (It's not taped, so you can't sleep in the rain, but it'll definitely keep your down dry!) Really nice bag (I know, surprising for something made by the North Face!), only used a handful of times and in really excellent, pretty much like-new condition. As I'm not really spending much time in really cold night-time temps, I just don't use the bag, and frankly I could use the money for something else. (New gear?)
This bag MSRP'd for well over $500 new, so considering its condition I'm thinking $300 including insured UPS ground to anywhere in the US. If you want to make me an offer, go for it.
Includes stuff sack and mesh storage bag.
PM or email to sxeclimber (at) yahoo (dot) com.
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Added pic of the shoes. (As you can see, the tag is still on them!)
Still asking $75. Will throw in free shipping to people who can't swing through Portland. Still not good enough? Make an offer!
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bump
Still available, people!
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These Vipers are the new (yellow) style, size 39. New in the box, never used. I got these, worried they were too small, never returned them, and so they sat in their box unused. Pick them up for a deal and I'll use the money to buy another pair of climbing shoes that fits!
MSRP is $115, sell for $75.
Shipping available - email for details. Pickup in Portland, OR.
sxeclimber (at) yahoo (dot) com
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soldsoldsold!
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I'm afraid my pullover doesn't fit like you describe at all - I'm about 5'9, 160 lbs and it fits well over a jacket and fleece, or as a slightly baggy outer later say over a sweater or t-shirt for me - the cuffs aren't tight at all.
Sorry, I should have been more specific: the cuffs are tight while pulling the jacket on, because they are only half-elasticized. That makes them tight when you're pushing your hands through, but it's not an issue when you're wearing it.
Compared the the Micro Puff Jacket, the P/O runs smaller. The jacket could truly be worn over a shell, but the P/O is tight enough to get into that a shell would be too bulky. Worn without layers, the P/O is loose around the stomach area, but normal around the shoulders. (This is because Patagonia doesn't taper their stuff - sizing up for obesity.)
This is at least my experience with the one I own. I have pretty wide (climber) shoulders, so maybe that's the issue.
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The Micropuff P/O runs on the small size. That's ok becase the regular one is super boxy and not tapered enough at the hips, but the cuffs on the P/O are REALLY tight. If you normally wear a M in Patagonia, expect this Micropuff to fit like a midlayer - over light underlayers, but you're not going to be able to pull it over your shell.
(This assumes the jacket is a 2005 or newer - Patagonia's fit is so idiosyncratic and varied, and they change their stuff so frequently, you kind of have to specify... In any case, the year of manufacture is on the white tag, like "S05" or "F06" or something, under the style number. The benefits of being an ex-employee...)
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Ok, the headlamps, boots, and T-Rocks have been sold. As for the rest:
-the tools are $15 for the pair
-the Platypus bladder is the same
Email me at sxeclimber (at) yahoo (dot) com if you're interested.
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C'mon people! Climbing shoes, hiking boots, headlamps! It's summer and this stuff is cheap!
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Okay, it's almost summer. Whatever.
The usual rules apply: local pickup in Portland, OR preferred, but I'll ship if you pay the postage.
Email inquiries to sxeclimber (at) yahoo (dot) com.
Onward!
Petzl Zoom headlamp from forever ago. Takes 3 AA or one 6V. Extra bulb stored in the lamp housing! No LEDs in this one, but it used to be the standard. Only $5.
Misc. Princeton Tech headlamp. 2 AA. Includes a fleecy storage bag and an extra bulb. $5
Salmon full grain leather hiking boots. (I think they were called Adventure 7's?) Despite the dirt, they were only used a couple of times, and have been in storage for a long long time. Men's size 9.5, and comes with an unopened bottle of leather waterproofing solution, if it's still good. $40.
Platypus water bladder, comes with hose and spare nipple (not pictured) and an insulating pouch. $10
5.10 T-Rocks climbing shoes, size men's 9. These have a nearly brand new resole on them, but it changed the shape of the last (they're not as pointy as they used to be) and now are running about a half size smaller than normal. I can't fit my foot in them properly anymore, so they're only $15.
This tiny multitool features two screwdrivers and pliers and folds up to hang off your keychain. Was a gift but I never use it. $10
These tiny "spy" binoculars were made in Russia! 2.5x zoom and focusable. Come with a little case. (Another unused gift.) $10
Have at it!
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Spring cleaning continues!
North Face Sentinel Windstopper fleece jacket, men's medium - $40
Marmot Scranton anorak - men's medium (runs big), $20
This thing is a beast. It's meant for snowboarding, and is absolutely burly, with nailhead cordura on the tail, elbows, and shoulders. Has a kangaroo pocket below the waist drawcord, a goggle pocket on the chest, and the hood rolls down into the fleece lined collar. I've had this thing forever and don't ever use it (it weighs a ton). If you're going to ride the lifts, it'd be a good beater jacket... at least you won't have to worry about ripping it.
Mountain Hardwear Dome Perignon - large, $20
This was a gift and hasn't been used.
Marmot Liquid Fire gloves - men's medium, $40
Softshell ice climbing gloves with leather palms, removable fleece liners, and super (plastic or kevlar or something) reinforced knuckles!
As always, local pickup in Portland, OR preferred, but will ship for cost blah blah blah.
My gear closet is shrinking by the day. It's fantastic.
Edit note: the Essenshell has sold!
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sold sold sold!! they're all gone!
Spring cleaning is happening early to help fund a trip to the Sierras this summer. I can't even remember the last time I used any of this (exceptionally meager) rack, so it's time to get rid of it. Everything's in great shape, maybe slightly scratched, but totally functional, with no real wear spots anywhere.
Note: all biner strengths listed are long axis, closed gate.
BD Livewire, 26kN
BD Big Easy, 23kN
Omega ISO D, 34kN (!) - two available
BD Quicksilver II, 25kN - four available (the last one is not corroded or worn, but has some dirt stuck to the gummy crap the original BD sticker left on the biner)
REI lockers, 22kN
First draw: BD Quicksilver II bolt end, BD Hotwire (25kN) rope end, 13cm Petzl 22kN dogbone runner
Second two draws: BD Quicksilver II bolt end, Petzl Spirit (23kN) rope end, 13cm Petzl 22kN dogbone runner
First draw: BD Quicksilver II bolt end, DMM Mamba (25kN) rope end with integrated 10cm runner (25kN)
Second draw: 22kN bolt end, 22kN rope end, 8.5cm runner (22kN), all by Camp Italy
Third draw: 24kN bolt end, 24kN rope end, 10cm runner (21.5kN), all by Blue Water
Both biners are BD Quicksilver IIs, 16cm runner (25kN) by Mammut
30cm runner by Blue Water (29.4kN)
1.3m daisy chain by Wild Things has never been used!
89cm runner by Blue Water (29.4kN)
66cm Yates runner - two available
Prices:
Biners are $3 each, or three for $8
Draws are $10 each, or three for $25
Daisy chain is $10
Runners are $3 each, or three for $8
I live in Portland, OR and am happy to let people drop by to pick stuff up; otherwise, I will ship for cost.
PM me here or email sxeclimber (at) yahoo (dot) com.
Eddie Bauer
in Climber's Board
Posted
This was a few years ago, before the economy tanked.