iank2z

yo Lambone that's some pretty impressive slogging around, let me know when you have some time and want to come down to slog around for some rock!

a little short notice for me today, however let me know how it went and if you plan on going back. -iaN

I was up at the crags this weekend, it was awesome as usual, I saw lot's of ice and small frozen falls on my way up to Becks Tower which is on the south flank. Based on what I saw, I would think Root Creek on the North side is a frozen wasteland. If any of you mixed climbers make it out there and find what your looking for, I'd love to come out and get some footage and pics, for some sites I'm working on, let me know. -iaN

if you have to drill on a quartzite dike you may have to sacrifice a bit or 2, I can get a 2 1/2' inch 3/8" in about 20 min not to bad for granite. The locals are a definitely a tough bunch. but the reason there are so few routes here in my opinion is that the rock just lends itself to more difficult climbing which was just beyond the "past" generation. I found this forum when i was google searching images of the crags and was way psyched when I saw your write up on Battle mtn. I often can't understand why more climbers aren't psyched on this place, but i keep thinking the crags time has just begun and it's nice to be there early on. keep in touch. -iaN

you mean we are not talking about using gear and clipping bolts on the same route, sorry my bad, I guess I'm just mixed up!;-( sorry I'll stick to rock and leave the real mixed climbing to real hard ass's like Clint here.

hi michael, i read your posts on castle crags, good stuff. I know this reply is a little late but if you are still interested. I moved to Weed 5 years ago, for a year, in that year i experienced exactly what you were describing a secretive self preservationist attitude, and distrust for newcomers. But I went on with my business and established a dozen new routes in the gully behind 6 toe crack now known as "the Grotto". These are all single pitch routes but they are some of the best routes at the crags from 10a - 12d. I moved back a year ago thinking I wasn't as much of an outsider, yet this wasn't the case. Still locals either didn't have the info I was seeking or they weren't sharing. So again I got to work, added 2 more routes to The Grotto, and then got pointed in the direction of Castle Lake. Were an unfinished route started by a climber just passing through awaited, It took some work and 2 bolts but I finished that route "Shastafari" 12d and "Raw" next to it at 11d. Then I turned my attention to Castle Dome's East face, I did the Dike route again just to check things out and because it's the finest route in NorCal. That day I hiked up the ramp past the Dike route were I came across a huge overhanging dihedral with a pin in it. Of coarse nobody new anything about it, didn't matter, that now goes at 12c all gear "Castle Corner". Then another 4 routes next to it went up all high quality, and a second pitch which I haven't red pointed yet but it will be about 12a or b. Anyway I started a website AlpineAddict.com were I will be documenting all the info. you are welcome to it or to share what you want. I'll be starting a winter ascent of Beck's Tower in a week or 2, and i've also been active at Ney Spring an awesome little local secret. Check out my site and if your coming down this way drop me a line. -iaN