grandpa
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Posts posted by grandpa
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1 hour ago, genepires said:
isn't the only difference between speed buckle and the buckle you speak of that the end of the webbing is sewn over to prevent it from being unthreaded? KNIFE woudl fix that.
No, the "double back" style has a one-piece buckle, and the end of the webbing must be threaded back over itself every time. The "speed buckle" style has a two-piece buckle and the webbing is fixed in place, and has the webbing sewn over as you mentioned. I've used both and far prefer the old style, but I'm guessing the manufacturers are catering to the "most inattentive among us" by going with the "speed buckle". I find the old style to be easier to set and adjust, but I do know that more attention in "harnessing up" is imperative!
Thanks all, for the replies!
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7 hours ago, Wildearth said:
Gearexpress has a couple of models of the "Safe Tech".http://www.gearexpress.com/metolius-safe-tech-mens-deluxe-harness.html
Thank you! I have not heard of this company. I just wrote to them to confirm, and then will place an order if it's the old style buckle. The way things are going, I must be the only guy out there that likes this buckle arrangement.
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My favorite harness, by far, is the Metolius "Safe Tech" with the two belay loops and the double back style waist belt buckle. But, they now only supply that harness with the newer, "speed buckle". I really dislike those, and it seems everyone is going to that style, so it appears that I'm outta luck. (%$#@#! lawyers, I suspect).
Searching the 'net tonight (so far) has resulted in Ø (zero) harnesses with that style buckle. Do any of you know of a manufacturer that still uses this buckle?
Second question is, somewhere recently I saw/read of a harness that has a small loop sewn into the leg harness strap, designed to clip a 'biner into for use with a prussik or klemheist autoblock. Do any of you know which one this might be. I'll keep searching, but haven't found it (yet).
Thanks, all... -
$20, is that including (cheapest method) shipping?
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3 minutes ago, JasonG said:
I'm pretty curious why you wouldn't just buy a new Reverso? I have had several, including the 1, and the modern ones are WAY better than the original.
I have a Reverso 4, a BD ATC guide and several other such gadgets. I want to use it in the gym where I work for demonstration purposes. Anyway, I have one on the way at a decent price. Thanks, all.
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I'm looking to buy a Reverso, the original (reverso 1, I believe?). In good physical condition, none, or not much scraping of surfaces, no sharp edges (if possible). I saw one in use a few years ago, and was quite intrigued by it, so want to get one to demo as a teaching aid in the gym where I work. I find one on eBay.uk for a reasonable price, but the condition and shipping (~$26) puts me off. Thanks all.
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On 9/7/2011 at 2:37 PM, corvallisclimb said:
...Due to being stainless you have to use some sort of lock-tite or something to keep the nut from loosening...
It's been my experience that if you reef on SS bolts/nuts enough they'll lockup and you'll never get 'em to move again. However, this is in regards to antenna mounting hardware where "reefing" on the hardware is quite possible. This may not be possible with climbing anchors, I don't know. I've never placed anchor bolts.
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I'll take the pulleys, 2 quick links and the Smith rock book. PM you shortly.
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I could see someone describing the Cowlitz and Nisqually Glaciers as being located "below Camp Muir". They certainly would feature some 75' holes.
OK, I can see that. Maybe a loose definition of "below Camp Muir", but valid. I don't take the kids there, and I may go take a look myself one day.
Thanks.
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FS: price drop - Never used OR Alpine bivy in blue. $100 plus shipping if needed (I am in Seattle). It comes with two stakes, the pole, and original stuff sack.
nine one four 5 eigh four, 3 8 o five
Check PM, please.
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Howdy-Ben
Howdy yerself ;-)
Check PM.
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If you haven't read it, you might check out my old NWMJ article on how signaling devices affect outcomes and risk tolerance.
And from the above article, I find this:
"Spring 2010, Mount Rainier - Two climbers fell 75 feet into a large crevasse just below Camp Muir. They called 9-1-1 from the bottom of the crevasse, but bad weather delayed rescue teams. Fortunately, the party had camping gear with them. They pitched a tent on a ledge inside the crevasse and waited in their sleeping bags until rescuers arrived to pull them up to safety."
I was not aware of any significant crevasses below Camp Muir, especially of this magnitude. The only ones I've seen were narrow, maybe an inch or two in width. As a grandpa who often takes "the kids" up there for a day hike, where would I find such a crack in the snow?
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... An example would be using wind power to pump water out of the Columbia and up to a lake at the top of the Gorge which could then be run back down to the river through a generator when needed.
This is done in Northfield, Mass. I toured the facility about 20 years ago, quite interesting.
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...I don't care about two way communication when I'm in the hills, though. When I push the button I want assurance that a rescue is being initiated ASAP above all else.
Yes, that's essentially all I want. I'll look into the one you suggested.
Thanks....
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I've decided it's getting time to consider a locator device, and would like a comparison from experienced users, not just the advertising by the device companies. Anyone care to share the +/- of their devices?
Thanks in advance...
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You'll love Olympus, if you get the weather. It's Classic with a capital C.
Thanks, I've been looking at this one for a while. I do hope it is good weather, I like the views on top as much as the hike up.
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Sandy, just saw your post re: El Dorado... check your PM.
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Take a course like the Mountaineers Basic Alpine course or the Washington Alpine Club Basic Course if you are in Washington, or a similar course from the Mazamas in Oregon...
The problem with those courses, of course, is that registration for both is now closed for the next year
Not true, Mazamas basic course registration starts next Tuesday...
www.mazamas.org
Further, the Mazamas have some *very* good online instruction sessions on Youtube. However (and this is important!), these videos are not suitable for use "in lieu of" competent personal instruction, but they are useful to give you an idea of what some aspects of mountaineering are all about.
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DON'T eat at Whittakers! We did the night before our climb and all 4 of us got food poisoning. Spent 2 days of misery at Paradise lodge and totally missed our climb.
Ha! I've been wondering if you were still around. Haven't seen a post from you in a while.
I did another summit this summer, Shuksan. A most excellent climb, and in some ways I liked it more than Rainier, even though its summit elevation is a mile lower. I used the same folks as when I climbed Rainier (IMG, highly recommended).
A very good place to eat is the Copper Creek Inn. Another is the Wild Berry. Both have good food.
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... A good nearby hiking option is Spencer's Butte or, if you rock climb, the Columns..
Thumbs up on each of these.
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...Either way, I agree with the previous comments. Hire a guide for your first time and let a professional assess the risk...
I agree, my take on this is that a guided trip will cost *far* less than say, a broken leg or the like, if things go wrong, even if you have good insurance. Things might go well, they might not.
I first saw, and started watching that mountain when I was about your age, and finally summited it on my 61st birthday, using International Mountaing Guides in Ashford for the guide service. That was money VERY well spent. And even though it was a most perfect day, weather wise, had I tried it on my own with some "online climbing buddies" of unknown capabilities, I can think of a few times things might not have gone well at all. I learned a lot that I didn't know that I didn't know by going with guides.
Prior to making the decision to go, I read a LOT; (Freedom of the Hills, various other books, nwhikers.net, Cascadeclimbers.com, Summitpost.org), and took a few trips up the trail to Camp Muir prior to making the decision that yes, I can do this, but with someone who knows HOW to do it.
I have no doubt whatever that you can do it. I did and I'm not in the same conditioning category as you appear to be, but there is more than physical conditioning and good weather to make it up and (more importantly), back down Rainier. That is a serious undertaking.
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If you already have an ice axe with an adze, then I would suggest buying a used hammer for a second tool....
Good idea, and thanks (to all) for the various opinions and ideas.
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So you already have an axe and are looking for a second tool for steeper climbs?
Yes, that's the situation... *occasional* steeper climbs.
Ice tools are pretty tough so I wouldn't worry about buying one used.That's the way I figured it, but with no firsthand prior experience, I ask. Thank you.
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I *think* I'm wanting to buy a used ice tool for some scrambling on glaciers this summer (and beyond). Not intending to do any serious ice climbing, but just crossing various late summer cracks and so on..(no, not going by myself yet, still enough a novice to pay the guides).
So my question is, what should I watch for? Good thinks to consider, bad things to avoid (like is there any hazard to buying used ice tools like buying used soft gear)?
I *love* gadgets, and climbing/hiking is a new experience for me, so for occasional (if ever), use, what would be a suitable tool, and what's a reasonable price, in good or better condition?
Ideas?
Salewa mountaineering boots, size 10
in The Yard Sale
Posted · Edited by grandpa
duplicate pics
I bought 'em from Feathered Friends in 2014 to climb Mt Shuksan (successful), climbed Olympus in 2016 (successful), and hiked part of Mt Adams with grandson in 2017, then tried Mt Baker this past weekend (unsuccessful) because my left foot became so terribly painful that I turned back just before the Roman wall where it gets steep. Left foot has had surgery which has now (apparently) caused the shape/size to change enough that the boot just doesn't fit well - is far too tight, and quite painful after a while. So, they should go to someone who will get good use out of 'em.
Original cost was a bit under $600, how about $300, and I ship (CONUS) for that?