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blueserac

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Everything posted by blueserac

  1. Adding to what PLC stated, "...if it doesn't you're a deadman..." Flukes or deadmen are great in appropriate conditions, already mentioned, and are best in a soft, homogenous snow often found later in the year like summer, autumn and before the new snows. Winter snow packs are layered with all densities of snow from slush, awsome "styro-foam", to ice so employing a dynamic anchor that, as mentioned, dig under action of load it can deflect off a harder layer. Setting the angle for the cable of the fluke can be tricky. Flukes are however pretty compact. Pickets are like the PHD cameras. Simple and easy. You can pound them vertically or you can always make a "T-Slot" anchor from it. I really like pickets for our coastal rime. Get out and play with all these anchors in different applications and snow types until failure. Study why they work, and why they don't. That's the best advice you have had already. Plus you can also sport a cool tag on your forehead from examining the failure of vertical picket placement.
  2. Get a copy of "Climbing Ice" by Yvon Chouinard and give it a thurough read through. Try these pages for self-belay: pp. 53, 44-45, 47, 51-53, 128, 129, 155, 187; and for self-arrest: pp. 47-49. Or you could always have a look in the index. Since whatever decision will make will be based on snow conditions get out and play, and those crappy warm and wet days are great [pub] practice days. Learn why techniques work and fail so you can use them unconsciously up there. Have fun flailing. As Obi-wan says "this tool is your life".
  3. Have you considered going straight to the source for ingloo technology? I hope you find these to be fun: http://www.nfb.ca/enclasse/doclens/visau/index.php?mode=view&language=english&filmId=11340&PHPSESSID=9242ff87edd3d99f76f30888649f3daa http://www.arcticomi.ca/iglu.html
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