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gt5816v

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Posts posted by gt5816v

    Anyone been up the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face?

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    So I was going to climb it Sunday morning but after peering off of the diving board at last light on Saturday I was pretty sure most of the bolt hangers were missing on the bolt ladder. Could've been the poor lighting but I did see a few hangers... :noway: I talked to one of guys at Red Point first thing Sunday and he said the 2nd bolt was chopped for sure but that's all he knew. Anyone got any beta on this?

     

    THanks!

    Want to trade full rack for bike

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    I have an older 18" Specialized Stumpjumper cromo w/xt V-breakes, xt derailures, xtr cassette, gripshifts, Raceface cranks, Spinergy Spox wheels, Judy DH shock, SDG kevlar saddle and that's all I can think of right now. I built it from scratch around 10 years ago. I just got a Trek 69er to replace it. I can get you some pics if you're interested. joshua j murray at g mail dot com

    To Plastic or Not

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I have always used leather boots. This year I got some Asolo AFS Evos. They are super warm and offer tons of support. If you check out my trip report on Thielsen you'll see the bad.. The liner in the those EVOs just chews up my feet! Had the same problem on hood.. Some Intuition liners are in my future!! I wanted a boot for alpine and ice climbing. I don't think there is one boot that will do it all though.. I might get a set of the Trangos for summer alpine.

     

     

    [TR] MT Thielsen - Classic Route 6/9/2007

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    I didn't see any bolts but there was a sling in good condition. I could have easily missed bolts given the conditions though.

     

    I was really shocked how long it took us but we were f'n around with mole skins and gearing up and down with the weather changes.

     

    I guess I better learn how to use my BC skis....

    [TR] MT Thielsen - Classic Route 6/9/2007

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Trip: MT Thielsen - Classic Route

     

    Date: 6/9/2007

     

    Trip Report:

    My buddy Zak and I arrived at the trail head at 10am after seeing a black bear run across the road. Book said 4-6 hours up and back... The weather was overcast but the summit was visible as we hit the trail. Hoofed it up to the PCT intersection with a few sections of snow covered trail. It's every bit of 4 miles in my estimation :cry: , different books call out 3-4 miles. Weather started moving in as we got on the climbers trail. Not much snow on the way up, glad I brought axes, pons, rope, screws, etc.. :tdown: Clouds descended, visibility was 50-100ft and it started misting. We hit the summit spire at 2pm. I looked at it and kicked myself for bringing any gear. :anger: If there were some visibility I would have dorked around on some of the other routes but given the conditions I decided to suck up my gear mistake, drop the pack and free up the 5.0 route. The summit is so small it was kinda spooky in the fog. I couldn't see anything but what I was standing on and I knew it dropped probably 500ft onto the south slopes... :skull: Scrambled back down picked up my anchor and proceeded down the ridge. Gained the trail and slogged back to the trail head. By 6pm we were back on the road and then another black bear ran across.

     

    Then :brew: :brew:

     

    parking_lot.jpg

     

    boots.jpg

     

    summit_view.jpg

     

    rope.jpg

     

    zak.jpg

     

    me1.jpg

     

    summit3.jpg

     

    zak_summit.jpg

     

    Gear Notes:

    I wasn't sure what the conditions would be like higher up so I just brought all my stuff. I'd say for a June and later or possibly even May and later climb no technical gear is needed.

     

    Approach Notes:

    Mosquito's weren't too bad and totally disappeared by the PCT. I'd like to climb this sucker in winter, not sure if the highway is plowed though?

     

    Camp Alpax

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I have a pair of Camp axes. They are straight shaft though. Looks like the same head. Think I paid ~$45 each on SAC for them. Anyway The heads have some nasty casting burs that I cleaned up with a file. The adze isn't very sharp either. For the price I can't complain though.

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