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Lowlander

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Posts posted by Lowlander

  1. The Rangers told me the same thing when I got my permit. It sounded nuts to me, and even more so when I got above Elk Lake. Hearing that people actually had a running belay going is surprising, considering. . . it's flat.

    The route is in fine shape. One impassable crevasse on the direct route to the saddle, but otherwise fine. The snow starts in the avi chutes, then disappears, and then re-appears at Glacier Meadows at about mile post 17.

     

  2. No way man. I was up there this last weekend skiing Zues's white landscape and found great conditions getting to Glacier Meadows.

    No problems above Elk Lake, some snow in the avi chutes starting at about mile 16, but no problem. (Running Belays? You got to be kidding me!!) Some downed trees. 3-4 feet of snow at Glacier Meadows. And at least 2 other parties besides my wife and I. But the skiing was good. Just one hell of a hike for some turns.

     

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  3. Ken4ord- I think the quickest you can do those trekking peaks round trip from Kathmandu is 6-7 days. Kathmandu is at 5,000 ft. So you get a little elevation. Some peaks are at 18,000 ft. So the altitude wouldn't be too different than Rainier here from sea level. Just getting to the peaks and acclimatizing can take a little bit of time. But climbing in the Khumbu region or Annapurna region could be the fastest due to the flights out to Lukla or Pohkara(sp?). Some peaks in the Annapurna take a few days to hike to, but you do acclimatize as you hike.

    If you can't climb, at least do the annapurna circuit. You can jog it in 3-4 days or hike it in 9. Or check out the Terai region, most people just think of Everest when they think of Nepal, but there is an incredible jungle region in the south.

     

  4. Getting to and finding great climbs in Tonsai is pretty easy. But if you want to see a better part of Thailand with incredible climbing. I would check out Lao Liang Island. It is a little hidden gem, gorgeous island and has the best climb I've done in Thailand. Try googling Lao Liang Island and Golden. It was featured in Urban Climber.

  5. Trip: Keith's Hut B.C. -

     

    Date: 11/27/2007

     

    Trip Report:

    My lady and I made some turns up above Keith's hut off of Duffy Lake Road last weekend. Joffre is in the background. Good early conditions. 2 days of skiing, 1 day of blue skies.

     

     

     

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  6. Thanks guys, I'll check into the soloist. I've seen it and heard of it but never really looked into it. I don't mind free soloing either, just been a little wet lately in the alpine.

    Dave- As for the gri-gri, I lead all my sport climbs on a 9.5 Infinity rope and never had it slip.

  7. Sometimes been a little short on climbing partners so I end up getting out by myself for some alpine. I'd like to get a decent route in so I've been climbing some 5.7 alpine climbs with a rope. I'm curious to know what other people's techniques are.

    When I am not comfortable to solo unroped on the climb anymore, I build an upward pull anchor, put the rope through a gri-gri on my harness and then pay out as I climb and place pieces. At the end of the rope, I anchor it, rap down, clean the bottom anchor, and then clean as I climb back up with the rope through my gri gri.

    The technique seems to work well. At least well enough. I am comfortable to solo 5.7's at crags, but not when I am by myself out a couple of hours from anywhere. So this technique works for me, but paying out the rope from my gri-gri as I am climbing is the most annoying part.

    Anyone out there got some other ideas?

     

  8. I use it quite often, but don't have it pre-knotted. I use my tech cord as a cordelette, equelette, or a sling for a boulder or as a sliding X. One tech cord for all purposes. You can rig it pretty fast.

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