hawkeye69
-
Posts
152 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by hawkeye69
-
-
i have a hard time with anyone calling for more government intervention considering themselves as a climber. the climbers most important trade is self sufficiency. that counts for the crag climber to the super alpinist.
however, to the other part of it, yes. if you spend some dough to fly somewhere you just may stick it out there more. its cost me a couple plane tickets to do something safe.
but targeting them with more government oversight? WTF is this world of climbing coming to when there are climbers even thinkin like that...
the first time i climbed mt hood i was alone, it was winter, and i did it RT from the parking lot in 4 hours on the doggey route. should the government have targeted me because i was from out of town? perhaps they should measure bodyfat and pack weight instead...
-
maybe that road that goes from packwood to white pass, chinnok pass road? that might satiate the wunderlust...
-
does anyone know of a link or phone number or something where one can volunteer to search? i am not an experienced sar dude but i also know that i wont go up and get lost or hurt.
edit: maybe a mod can start another thread about technology and locator units and stuff. i have some stuff to say but not sure this is the right thread....
-
actually misterE, i dont resist them.
i do like it when climbers are well informed and not stuck in a sport vs trad thing. i have no problems with smith or its evolution. and in my own small way i brought sport climbing to a couple of crags anyway. despite that, climbing means to ascend, and that to me means strting on the bottom going up. everything else is for the fun of it or training, and different than why i started (but still fun all the same). which is why i disagree with a jihad on sport climbs.
whatever.
-
point taken pope. one that i fully appreciate as i always thought shooting for a higher number grade was only a part of the puzzle. in my mind there are "few" 5.12 climbers. to me redpointing a 5.12 dont make you a 5.12 climber. rather, a well rounded individual who is comfortable at the grade rates that. when you factor this into the equation, standards may not have climbed much over the years. sure there is the oddball extremely talented individual out there, but comprehensive climbing skills have not gained much ground.
but standards have risen faster, so long as you look at just the number grade. furthermore, most of the choss heaps called "sport climbing areas" would not have been around. you may say, no great loss and i can appreciate that. the difference in our opinions is whether it is really a valid argument these days. besides, i sometimes love the fun of clipping bolts only...
-
good post sweatinoutliquor. Hope they survive and have a tale to tell.
it is really quite difficult to understand just how freakin bad the weather can get in the cascades. i know i didnt get it until i had experienced it first hand.
-
wow. thanks for the beta! i was thinkin of this too.
so i take the sling and wrap it aound the blocks? i clip into it then right? and you mean i need to get some thingies to stick in the rock for an anchor? do you know EXACTLY what size? and like what happens at the top of the pitch? if i forget something can i get your number so i can call you for help? that'd be way cool dood.
-
What's the occasion? A celebration of the castration of America's proud rock climbing traditions? What's being documented? The history of our slide down the slippery slope to climbing without courage? The abandon of the "leave no trace" ethic in favor of manufactured bolt trails? The narcissism of pretending to climb grades that you can't really handle without an obnoxious, rap-placed bolt every six feet? Bad hair styles, lycra and the invitation of multitudes of gumbies who would rather alter the vertical environment than seek a true adventure?
Join me in missing this one.
actually pope, your call to arms is closer to bushes vitriol than i could ever hope to acheive.
and i take the utilitarian comment as a compliment. i think utilitarian is good.
-
I looked down and the first thing I noticed was my girlfriend's cleavage. .... I arrived at the rest to find hand jams....a REAL rest... but no jugs. The only jugs I remember seeing were back at the belay. Wink wink.
now the truth comes out! there really was cause for a stiff rope that day!
-
Stick clips are a result of poor bolting. Smith being the exception due to the erosion at the base of the walls. My first trip down there I climbed Relelations and even though 5.9, that first bolt is sure a long way up. If a route is bolted, it should always protect a possible injury.
If you want to stick clip a route good for you, but you may be missing out on the true rush of climbing. (sport)
in the traditional lexicon of climbers, a rappel placed bolt is cheating. clipping a rapp placed bolt is cheating. not stick clipping the cheating bolt placed on aid is everyones perogative. but please dont get it stuck in your own head that some dude is missin out on some killer rush by playin your own games. you wanna killer rush go solo something onsite near your limits. not to diss on you but some folks just dont get it. its all a contrived game we play and it is everyones right to contrive it as they see fit.
sport climbin is about safety of the moves. otherwise those dudes could have got a much more killer rush by doin the route groundup with minimal bolts.
-
pope, you are free to demonstrate, kick, cry and scream peacefully. its all good.
personally i like all kinds of climbing. if you limit yourself to one, well, you are limiting yourself. doesnt bother me.
as an old timer (learned in the 70's) i did find it strange at smith about 10 years ago to be near guys that were on their second time outside trying an 11a. seemed to play with my senses. last year i chose to belay my gf at the top of a climb to snap some pics. some dudes there had never heard of that, you'd of thought a freak show was going on). surely these were things one would not have had to put up with back in the golden years.
smith is like an outside climbing gym. sure their are negatives associated with that. i dont really like the thought, but the movement is fun and tons of rock was opened up because of the advent of sport climbing. routes that would not be there are there. personally, when i have put up sport routes it seems like a construction project until the send.
and you may disagree, and it is not my objective, but it is hard to fight that the limited rock resource may be best utilized when climbers start from the top down. not in all places, but certainly at a place like smith.
i've spent my time on the sharp end with X rated runouts on ground up FA's. those are times that were spiritual moments for me. and ive done it on some of the classic run out routes like in the Needles of South Dakota. but the fact is, there is room and almost a necessity for places like smith where it was once thought of as a veritable choss pile.
as far as wanting to progress the sport back to either no bolts or bolting on lead, you got an uphill battle. aint gonna happen. i suggest you talk to this man
about how bad wrongful wars can go. the political fallout is terrible, just terrible.
The Global War on Sport Climbing (BWOSC)
GWOB does have a better ring to it,
Global War on Bolts.
have at it, wage your war. albiet peacefully. and if you decide to get serious, well, there are alot of bolts out there to pull. just dont be surprised when some folks get pissed about it...
-
oh my god! all those years with a figure 8 and i coulda died!
pffffffffft.
figure 8 is just like anything else a tool. and like all good tools improvements are made. but i never heard anyone dieing from crossloading in the 70's. and as far as rappelling the loads arent great enough unless you f&&& something else up.
-
interesting disussion. but i do have one question in regards to this
Yes, I clipped up a few routes (even flashed an 11d with a bowline on a coil for a harness
does strokin yourself make that rope stiff?
-
Damn Monty! you dont talk in a high voice either? actually sounds like a pretty rasonable thing, i will try that. umm not the dulfersitz but the betweent the legs thing...
-
advocates for gun control must have a lot more confidence and trust (in our politicians that they can get something right) than i do...
-
if there are existing 1/4"ers on the route, why not replace the EXISTING ones with 3/8"ers?
oh sorry, this is about wanting to rant about bolts. not about making any sense out of things...
-
I see more rifts developing now with the House thing and all.
Discuss
what is the House thing?
-
wow, almost had another 10 essentials rant from the Fundamentalist Mounties Sect. preaching from the FoH, their koran. sounds like a mounties jihad.
if i choose to carry a gun, thats my deal. you guys that have a problem with that can go f*** yourselves.
-
soulreaper said
Instead, they're removing the challenge and adventure for all of us "young" ones who are now enjoying their legacy.
i beenn climbin over 30 years, not much of it in the great PNW (bein new here) but i have been around. i just wanted to say that soulreaper doesnt sound like a "young" climber. sounds like you really have your ethical sh&& together and i appreciate reading your posts.
its good to see someone who is not totally anti- or totally pro-bolt posting here. not that others are'nt.
-
congrats to the new father. hope his boy is just like him, he deserves it.
on a side note it took me a minute before clicking on this thread, i thought it said KEVBONES BOY PORN.
that was a scary freaking thought...
-
thanks for posting.
be interesting to see whats up.
.357 mag titanium here
-
mike has really learned this time. if he decides to bite hes going for something more tasty...
-
This notion that somehow leaders who are confronted with a grave, immediate, and obvious threat should somehow forsee one of the millions of unintended consequences
At this point I'd settle for leadership capable of thinking up at least one unintended consequence.
At this point I'd settle for leadership capable of thinking ...
-
Should I loosen all my knots before a climb so that they can all "tighten"?
much more important is to have tails the length of your penis. a natural selection process...
3 Lost on Mount Hood
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
good post big mac.
there are a lot of folks out there praying, meditating or otherwise pulling for the climbers and the search teams.