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mkporwit

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    [TR] South Early Winter Spire - SW Couloir 5/11/2014

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Trip: South Early Winter Spire - SW Couloir

     

    Date: 5/11/2014

     

    Trip Report:

    I've been wanting to climb this couloir for years. Unfortunately, the last three years have seen me greatly curtail my climbing -- partially due to a motorcycle habit, and partially due to me tearing my ACL and MCL three years ago and never getting back into the swing of things.

     

    There were four of us on this climb -- myself, RH, SG, and JG. We left the trailhead at about 8am, having decided to leave the slowshoes in the car. There was a bunch of postholing through the snow in the trees, but once we got out into the open, the snow firmed up. It was a leisurely approach, and we got to the base of the climb maybe around 10:30, having stopped a few times to enjoy the views:

    10265656_10100245214624732_5446054735224350857_o.jpg

    The lower portion of the route, and the (difficult) left couloir:

    10295315_10100245214684612_198332379383026914_o.jpg

     

    Lots of skiers in the basin:

    10363434_10100245214834312_3761058115015245145_o.jpg

    We put on harnesses at the base, but forewent roping up 'cause the climb looked to be in very good shape:

    1613885_10100245214894192_1160097048148495508_n.jpg

     

    This, despite the fact that JG had crampon issues, and as a result was climbing with just one. Fortunately, JG has impeccable single crampon technique. When we got to the narrow, iced over section, I decided I was going to climb that and put in a fixed line for the others to prusik on.

    10330498_10100245215028922_7049884976271377581_n.jpg

     

    Another party was rapping down as we were at the crux, so we hammed it up for a group photo:

    10333715_10100245215083812_840407531282155407_o.jpg

     

    Above the crux was again easy cruising. We topped out around 1pm, and enjoyed the summit for a while:

    10295121_10100245215298382_246588580999941448_o.jpg

     

    We rapped down part-way, past the crux of the ascent, and then downclimbed. I was the last one coming down, and decided that I didn't like downclimbing this one bit, so JG climbed back up with a rope and we rapped down over that. Two double-rope rappels will get you down the entire steep portion of the couloir. The route will likely be out of shape in a week or two. On the way down, many of the rocks that were frozen in place in the morning had melted out, and some were firing down the couloir.

     

    We had some nice glissades on the way out, and headed home. A great day in the mountains.

     

    Gear Notes:

    Picket

    Second tool

    Brought rock gear but did not place it

     

    Approach Notes:

    Snowshoes were not necessary, but would have been nice for the hike in the trees, and for the hike out.

    Before you ask me "HEY SOBO, WHAT TIME IS IT??"...

    in Spray

    Posted

    *DISCLAIMER*

    Please know that if any attorneys are reading this, I am in way planning, nor morally capable of constituting, the action referenced below:

     

    Today, I experienced such annoyance, frustration, anger, and rage at the hands of my BAT SHIT CRAZY EX-WIFE BITCH'S manipulations that I can honestly say, although I have sufficient control of my emotions to never attempt such a thing, that I completely understand now why some people take a gun and pop a cap in the ass of their exes.

     

    As a story was related to me from a college friend about a friend of his: "He's dead, I don't have to fuq with him anymore, and I'll be out in 9 years..." :laf:

     

    Trust me... I understand this feeling too :laf:

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