scm007

That would work for me. Are you wanting to do it in one long C2C push, or camp at Muir?

Not sure at the moment, anything interesting you?

What is the status of the North Ridge of baker?

Anybody interested in climbing Rainier this weekend? Maybe do a Friday/Saturday climb?

I seam sealed mine, but have only been in light sprinkles with it. Bomber in snow for sure. Can't say how well it would do in a deluge.

Hey I was thinking about perhaps this weekend? Which route are you considering?

Of course there is no wind, there is never any wind on a big mountain..... In case you didn't grasp the sarcasm, yes there is wind, can be pretty stiff.

I would also like to know this. I went up there on Tuesday, judging from the conditions, I think you can get some good turns in if you started your descent ~9:00 - 9:30. If you timed your climb right I would do it like this. Summit ~ 8:30 Descend to the hogsback ~ 9:00. Strap on your skis and start your descent. To summit at 8:30, I would leave T-line around 4:30. Although I'm sure I could do it much faster than last time around, having lost the route once, taking breaks, etc.

I have never climbed there before, but is it common to setup TR's from 3 nuts there? Seems a bit odd. Also if the area is such that a slip can occur, how did they even get the first piece in? They must have descended unroped to the anchor? This whole thing seems very wrong, but I can't say without knowing a bit more about the climb they were trying to TR. Any more info from someone who knows?

I use the firstlight, without the vestibule. I love it, totally bitching setup. Way more comfortable than a bivy sack, same weight. You won't regret purchasing it... as long as you only use it in the snow.

Why not just solo it, or find a buddy and group solo it? The climbing is almost nonexistent up until the last pitch, which is then quite easy but very fun.

Yeah I was also way ahead of that huge Mazama (I'm assuming) group. Passed them pretty early on even though they left way before us. I think I did talk to you, I'm pretty sure I was the solo guy you gave advice.

Maybe, were you the guy that went up high on the traverse, then backed down? Gave us some advice about going through the dirt patch.

Yup the conditions were great for cramponing. I didn't use the staircase, and the climbing was fun! I also traversed low.

What is the condition of the trade route up the SS of Hood right now? Are people jumping off the hogsback early and traversing to the WCR finish? How is the traverse/final pitch up the headwall on WCR? Any need for a 2nd tool?

I was planning on dumping my gear at the hogsback then footing it to the summit. After reading about someone getting their sleds jacked, I'm not so sure now. What have people typically done in the past? I would hate to get a bunch of shit nicked.

So the chute wasn't too icey? No need for a 2nd tool?

How much are you asking?

I guess my fear about the conditions was realized your posts pushed me to not going. Thanks a lot Hopefully with this weeks relatively constant weather we will break off all of this shit that has been accumulating and next weekend will be much better.

Sounds good man, interested in next weekend? Should have gone this weekend -- Got scared off Hood by the mountain breaking apart.

Ha ivan I love your answers. Seems a little silly to bring a 6 pack to the hogsback, I will likely just bring a 30pack to T-line for way less effort

Coming off this week of precipitation, and getting some of the hottest temperatures we have seen this year thus far, what are the Hood experts opinions regarding the relative ice/rockfall danger for this weekend? I am on summitting from 6-7AM, getting down around 9. Is this adequate for the weather conditions brewing right now?

Jay are you leaving on Sunday morning or Sat morning? I will be leaving T-line at 1AM Sunday morning. I will be splitting.

Haha sure thing! 11pm sounds a bit early, I think I will leave T-line around 1am. When you mean "sled" do you mean snowmobile or tobaggon?

I would be stoked to go with you, unfortunately I have obligations on Saturday until ~11:00 AM, and I live in Eugene OR. Just not enough time in the weekend