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hippie

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  1. Washington Ice by J. Martin & A. Krawarik (Mountaineers Books) is a good book for finding climbs as well as TR's on this site. Good books for helping with technique etc. that I believe are still in print would include How To Ice Climb by Craig Luebben (Falcon Books) and Ice World by Jeff Lowe (mountaineers books). Freedom of The Hills has a nice section on ice climbing.My older edition is a little outdated for current techniques; I haven't seen the current edition. A post on Climbing Partners begging to be included on an easy trip somewhere might prove fruitful. I've been blessed with some of the best mentors anywhere; good experienced partners are the best learning resource.
  2. The climber is OK,he was rescued overnight and was at the hospital in Wenatchee at 7:00 A.M. this morning. There was a small article in todays paper but I have no idea how to link it. He was hit by a headsized rock apparently trundled by the goats and fell 20 feet.
  3. Chapter 2(I ran out of room)When applied to the problem area it forms a coat similar to the liquid bandage products. It also stays a little tacky, something of an adhesive. When I tried it this weekend on a long approach I noticed that my sock was lightly stuck to my foot when I changed to climbing shoes. No movement, no friction. It worked perfectly. A few other tips: no cotton socks, avoid Gore-tex, etc. if not needed (they both leave your feet wet) and wear your boots often enough to keep your feet broke in.To avoid toe problems leave room in the toes and tighten the laces over the instep.
  4. I have had problems w/ blisters over the years and have found several workable solutions. My problems usually are on the back of the heel. Moleskin or molefoam pads cut to fit over the problem area works,with some athletic tape cut long (instep to instep) to hold it from moving. This is a pain to reapply on a multiday trip but it does work. Better is a thin nylon or polyester liner sock under your heavy boot sock.Be sure to bring along plenty of spare socks or dry them overnight, wet socks softens your skin and makes blistering hard to avoid. I have seen tincture of benzoin suggested in a number of places and tried it recently. T of B is a brown liquid used to cover canker sores in the mouth.
  5. I don't know names but both climbers were female. The victim was found with one strand of rope clipped into her device and about 30feet difference in the srand lengths, indicating that she had probably misclipped. A prusik backup would probably have saved her.
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