Iggy

Nice work. I'd still recommend it earlier in the year. I did it in the first week of July '91. It was still chopped up but not as bad. We took about the same path up to the big crevasse. I think that wall to wall crevasse is always there. We rapped into it and climbed out the right side up a "bobsled run" next to the rock waiting for more chunks to hit. Makes you move a bit faster. It was our third time in there due to weather so we left camp at 0830 after we dried out. We were on a mission from God. I would not recommend the late start.

I believe there were some other parts of notes but I didn't see that. It would have been notable.

Trip: - Ptarmigan traverse-extended finish Date: 7/16/2008 Trip Report: Wanted to do the Ptarmigan again but was detered by the mared exit with 8-9 miles of road walking. My partner Jack Barben found a post by Lowell Skoog about the "extended finish" out to Holden. This sounded interesting and I would also be able to get Sinister if our plan worked. We left under sunny skies and a stellar forcast. Even the nasty dirt gully on Mixup arm was filled in with snow. As we came over the shoulder of Mixup we met Art, Brett, and John going in to do Formidable. It was easy traversing getting up to the Red Ledges. A bit of steep snow and then around the corner and over to a relatively smooth Middle Cascade Gl. After descending the Spider-formidable col we decided that if we were going to make our pickup we needed to skip one of the peaks here. since Spider is so near the col we decided to do Formidable and followed Art and the gang over. We spent an hour exploring the "shortcut" Barben col and then used the normal route where we met the other guys on the summit. I really liked the ridge before LeConte and we thought about camping there but decided to head down to yang-Yang lakes for the night. It was beautiful and not the bug infested swamp of my memory. The next day was our only cloudy day of the trip. We climbed up to LeConte and made the long traverse around and up the glacier to the col leading to S.Cascade Gl. Here we dropped our packs and followed a GPS over to the base of Old Guard. The W. Ridge was a nice scramble and about the most solid rock of the trip. It cleared a bit on top and we got our first glimpse of the potential crux of our trip, up, over, around and down Dome to the Chickamin Gl. and the base of Sinister. From this vantage point it looked as if huge crevasses blocked an exit onto the Chickamin from above. The other way through would have been over the Elephant head col but that looked like more rock climbing than we wanted with full packs. We descended old Guard and walked down to the S. Cascade Gl. to do the S. slope of Sentinel. This was approached via a very manky snow bridge that exited onto a slab covered with ball bearings. Having survived this we proceeded up to the top via some of the most rotten rock in the range. We didn't bring our cameras because the view was the same as from Old Guard. To our surprise there were 7-8 goat in the col about 75-100 ft below the summit. We continued down to White Rocks after passing a very taciturn 10 man group from NOLS. They crossed the gl in front of us without so much as a wave. We finally yelled hello and they said they just had come from Dome via the standard road slog. At this point I really din't want to do that road. Down at White Rocks we had great views and decided our next move over dinner. This had been a very exhausting day. The next day would be a "rest" day and we would only climb over Dome and maybe camp at the Dana-Dome gl. col leaving the day after to explore the feasability of descending the Chickamin. When we got to the col we had a choice of "resting" at noon and roasting in 80 degree glacier heat or just carrying over Dome and seeing what happened. As you can imagine the rest day was cut short. We summited Dome as you can see with "Jack on Crack" http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/Jack_on_crack-Dome.JPG[/img]and had the celebratory Ritter Sport for the effort (660 cal). We were happy to find a way through the crevasses down the Chickamin to a camp at the base of Sinister. After summiting Sinister all we had to do was "walk" over the Sinister-Gunsight col and we were home free. After getting down we packed up and hiked up to the col. We had a little issue with crumbly clay over slabs and had to protect this to feel secure with the loads. The rest of the trip was beautiful but was indeed an "extended" finish. South of Sinister is open country up, around and through Ross pass then Totem pass Lots of snow, scree, up, down and an occasioanl bear brought us to Canyon Lake after another 12 hr day. This was the end of the difficulties but not the end of the trail. We still had 21-22 miles to get out though the rest would now be on trails. Leaving canyon Lake we easily got on the trail and followed it over and around to Miners Ridge. Having lunch on the shoulder of Miners Ridge one can see back to Dome-Sinister and then turn around 180 degrees and have a spectacular view of Glacier Peak trough the trees. The walk on the back side of the ridge was miles of flowers and non stop views of Glacier. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/S_on_Miner_s_Ridge_toward_Plummer_Mtn.JPG[/img] We thought we still had another night out but appeared to be making good time. The trail was good but we were getting pretty tired and footsore. We decided to make a push for Holden in the hopes of a shower and bed. Finally 13 hrs later we arrived in Holden and were treated to free showers, food and an invitation to sleep in the geologists tents. The next morning we caught the bus to the lake and got a boat to get to our ride at Fields Point. This was a great trip with great weather and should be considered for those repeating the Traverse. We had great snow closed crevasses and would recommend doing it in mid to late June at the latest in a normal snow year. Thanks to Lowell Skoog for the beta. It beat the hell out of a road walk even if it was 52 miles( per TOPO). Gear Notes: 30 meter rope, crampons,hard hat,picket, and a little pro if you want to do the crack on Dome (#3 camalot"). Maybe a small rack for the unexpected such as the Gunsight col. Approach Notes: Drive to Cascade Pass and start walking.

Man, that is a hell of a lot of work to not climb Challenger. Great photos though. I agree with the above that that one sunset photo is amazing. I did 3 Picket trips last year and those photos almost made me forget the bushwhacking and want to do another.

I did that route 16 years ago with the same excellent ice conditions. There really wasn't more than 30 feet of rock "climbing" mostly traversing on steep powder snow over extremely loose unprotectable shale. The rest of the steep ice was great with not a speck of snow on it. I did it in the 3rd week of August. It was a while ago but it might still be a little better a month earlier as far as the rock part goes.

That was my point. It was totally hidden with a smooth surface and no indications whatsoever. Even late in the year you can be surprised on a small smooth appearing glacier.

Trip: Jack Mt - South Face, beware easy routes Date: 8/21/2007 Trip Report: Jack Barben and I walked in to Jerry Lakes and climbed the S. Face. After climbing out of the Jerry Lakes hole we traversed over to the head of Crater Creek and crossed the SE ridge at about 7,000ft. The right side of the face looked steep and wet so we traversed entirely on snow under the summit block to the top of the snow and started going up just past the summit block. There was still enough snow in the gully to make us climb the ribs but not enough to make us use the snow ramps. On descent the trickles were small streams. This peak is very rotten with multiple variations possible. It appears the easiest way up is where the streams were the wettest at this time. Up was no problem but the down part was some tricky down climbing of some 8-10 steep steps. We did one 40 ft rappel near the bottom. Everyone knows this peak is rotten but as a long time cascade climber I would like to attest to the fact that it is more so than most. Little Tahoma is Prusik Peak next to this one. Both of us were kicking rocks down in spite of how careful we tried to be. I almost whacked Jack with a softball to the back of the head. Fortunately I was only about 8 feet above him down climbing and it bounced before it hit him. The only other thing I would say is that on the way out Jack fell into a 2.5 ft wide crevasse high up on Jerry Gl. THis was an area smooth as glass and well above the obvious crevasse zone. If it were not for his pack he may well have ben wedged in 10-20 ft down. This is a weeny glacier and the type that invites one to take a chance and not rope up. At least for me I will resist the urge next time I have it. We were roped up but I will admit the thought of not doing so had crossed my mind. Jack is a pretty mountain from Crater Mt. or Jerry Lakes. However, once on the S. Face it is one butt ugly mass of choss. Now I know why I have never seen a close up of the face in a trip report. The only reason I did it was to complete my 9k list. The one redeeming value is the summit views of virtually the entire range. Gear Notes: If you forget your hard hat, go home!!! No pro needed but a few long slings might come in handy. The trick is finding a stationary oject to atach them to.

I'm available M-TH this week. I've done the volcanoes from many routes so I'm a little tired of them. I would be interested in a 3 day trip to Spikard or Jack or a 1.5 day trip up Little Tahoma during this time. I'm very fit with a lot of time off.

I have 13-15th available and need a partner. I did Redoubt a couple years ago but ran out of weather.

Last year we crossed just past Access Cr. and didn't find or need a log. The water in the 3rd week in July was only about 12-18 inches deep and there was a large sand bar in the middle to break it up. I would however definitely bring poles and an old pair of tennis shoes or sandals for the rocks. Also, if you cross to the south of Access creek earlier than the 3800 ft recommended by Nelson your bushwacking will be really miserable for a few hundred yards. We crossed higher on the way out and it was much less painful

I have the 13-15th off and need a partner to do Mt. Spickard. I've been in there before for Redoubt but could only do the one because of weather.

Would you be interested in the Tahoma Gl. I've done several routes including Liberty,Ptarmigan, and Sunset. Myself and another fellow are fit and experienced. Wouldn't mind another fit person on the rope. We will be going July5-8.

Wait til netxt June or early July.

I would appreciate any beta on the W. Ridge of Terror for anyone who has been there recently. How is the creek crossing and route up the forest to camp. Any pro needed for the ridge of Terror. Photos? Thanks.

Has anyone been there lately? Any info on conditions and the best way to access the route would be helpful.