Camped on the Elliot Glacier flats Weds night about 7500'. To the summit up the direct route (right side of Elliot Glacier Headwall.) Crossing 'schrund at 9500' at top of snowdome very easy as of now. Crossing 'schrund at just above 10,000' took a little work and will be downright impossible soon - will have to traverse climber's right onto the standard Sunshine Rte to pass. Climbing about up to 40 deg or so on the headwall, soft post-holing. 5 leisurely hours to summit. Left skis at 11,000' - W ridge icy/ crunchy.
Skied EG Headwall - so tasty! Perfectly softened by noon with a firm base, sliding slush. Large crevasse about 300' down is passable on either side and the rest of the glacier is completely closed. Traversed back onto snowdome about 9000' with great skiing to about 7800' then mush. Skied direct back onto Elliot Glacier. Cracks visible but still small and narrow on the flats at 7500'. Snow to just below Tilly Jane Cabin at about 5,600' but oh so dirty and slow! Full on carbon-skiing! Dusty hike down the last 2.5 miles to the Tilly Jane TH, plenty of downed trees to cross.
Gear: Icelantic Nomad skis w/ Mega-ride boots (plug.) Ace axe (long) and crampons a must. Good to have harness and short rope for crossing schrund (and someone willing to lead it!)