jesselillis
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Posts posted by jesselillis
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Can someone tell me if all the Dynafit bindings have the same mounting screw footprint?
Specifically, I want to take the TLT Vertical bindings off my Shuksans and replace them with TLT Speed bindings. Will I need to drill any new holes in the skis to mount the Speeds?
Thanks
-Jesse
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Trip: Dragontail - NE Couloir
Date: 2/19/2011
Trip Report:
PreTrip
Thursday evening Jiri and I decided to climb. Sleeping at gate by ~930PM Friday.
Approach
Left car at 4AM as planned (brief encounter with Chad Kellog and Brittany (LN?) at car lot, planning to do Triple Couloir- did not see them again). Snowshoes on packs and bootpacked well-traveled road to TH (snowshoes after ~2 miles, ~2 inches slippery snow); arrived ~530AM (nice full moon for hike). Uneventful 2 miles to the trail split and another 2 to Colchuck lake (~750AM covered in ~8inches snow). Cross lake (~815AM) and started up in trees towards base of TC. Lots of snow up towards Asgaard pass (12-18 inches), some concerns re: snowpack and avy danger. Traversed high- almost at base of Dragontail, towards base of NEC. Snowpit (in pass): top ~24inches unconsolidated, then a hard 2inch crust, slightly weaker layer below; no clean layers broke on column test. Traversed across Asgaard Pass to continue ascent in trees for snow stabilization, ditched snowshoes and 1 pole each (kept 1 each for descent) and crossed the pass again to the base of NEC (~1020AM).
Climb
Snow in the couloir was far in excess of expectation- sinking to hip height for first ~300 feet vert; some discussion about our anticipated speed (very slow), unpreparedness/unwillingness to bivy and overall worthwhileness of climb. Deciding to slog to a 'constriction' in hopes of more consolidation, found sightly better conditions, but consistent slogging for 1000+ feet [Jiri was a machine through this as I felt progressively worse]. Climbing was unremarkable until ~1PM arrival at base of headwall (crux). Jiri graciously offered me this lead, which I took. Pitch was likely in M5 conditions, felt much more difficult for little gear and stable features absent/hidden by snow (presumably first of supposed 2 pitches of mixed climbing completely covered by snow). Jiri up behind me (3PM) and took off for what we made into 2 traversing pitches (steep and slippery) to notch below summit (5PM). Decided not to gun for summit (uncertain route-finding and time/light constraints).
Descent
Had to make 2 raps (free gear on route!) due to only bringing one rope. Back in pass ~540PM, back to snowshoes ~620PM, to lake by 7PM. You know the rest, it sucks. Car just after 11PM.
Subjective
1 No route finding issues. Mostly slowed by my hiking and the amount of snow we encountered; also by the time each of our leads took- hard to find pro (loose snow covering sparsely protectable rock).
2 I really need to learn about ISO and taking photos in the snow. The views from the climb were phenomenal, but killed by my inability to work a camera.
3 In these conditions I was underwhelmed by this route. Long approach, unremarkable snog slog, and 1+ mind f* leads.
Gear Notes:
Gear
rack- 4 screws (useless), 2 pickets, 3 tiny TCUs, .3,.5,1,2 camalots, nuts 4-10, 4 pitons*
rope- 1 50m
avy- shovel, beacon, probe
*a better rack for our conditions would have been 6 tiny tcus, nuts 4-8, 4 pitons (no screws, no cams bigger than .4)
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I left my snow saw in the snow after digging a pit in Crystal Backcountry. It is on (well, 15 feet below) the ridge one uses to approach Pickhandle Point from the ski resort (on the resort side of the ridge). I know it is hell of unlikely to come across it, but it doesn't hurt to post. Lost on Friday, Nov 26.
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I'm interested in making a trip to the Canadian Rockies (from Seattle) for ice this season. I haven't been anywhere in Canada east of Lillooet. Could folks comment on closest drivable worthwhile ice destination, and contrast with ice destination closest to an airport?
Thanks
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PM me with description and we can arrange for return
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taking first trip to pickets this week
can i pull off trail runners with gaitors and crampons or do i need hiking/mountaineering boots?
i hate the idea of 4 pounds of boots in my climbing pack while on inspiration or terror...
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what have folks brought (or wished they brought)?
im thinking of bringing either twins (excessive rope drag?), a single double (ive heard the pitches worth pitching out are < 1/2 rope length) or maybe a single double and a 6mm tag line.
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I'm looking to get out this weekend, regular partners seem to all be busy. Liberty Ridge or Mt Olympus are near the top of my list (leave Seattle Friday evening, return Monday night), but I could be convinced to do a shorter trip (Adams or Forbidden or Stuart or something).
PM me if you want to swap ideas and experience/ability.
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I'm visiting Font tomorrow
Anyone have valuable beta for visiting from Paris?
Specifically accessible by train and not too much walking?
6a-ish routes (v3)
Or any other fun beta
Thanks
-j
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I think in the chaos of a new climber trip, some of my trad gear didn't make it back to my pack
The largest item unaccounted for is my #3 BD cam.
If you found this and return it... well I'm impressed by your ability to resist the 'booty' temptation that seems to afflict so many among our ranks
Playground Pit, Leavenworth, lost Sunday 5/23
Thanks
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Have a few days to kill in Sweden, generally discontent with what I've found via a google search. Anyone been there and done some climbing? Recommend a crag (and a means to arrive at it)?
Sport or trad, to 5.11.
Thanks for any thoughts or redirects (to more useful URLs than I've found)
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Heading to Red Rocks with a couple friends, looking for beta of all nature.
Group of 3, climbing abilities range up to leading .10 trad/.11 sport.
Looking for sport crags, classic trad climbs (bear in mind, group of 3), climbs that fit the season, camping spots, local eateries, off-day recommended activities, closest free internet, and any other experience/wisdom you care to share.
Thanks
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any of you handy types built your own bosun's chair? i'm reticent to drop $60 on the BD one, but it sure would be nice for those climbs where you know 50% of the time you are going to be hanging in your harness belaying...
web-redirects, personal design plans, alternative strategies, etc. welcomed
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Partner and I are planning to hit Lillooet this weekend despite >0 temp and possible rain.
1 Advice for places that are less likely to be melted out/affected by warming Ts?
2 We'll probably stay at Mile-0 (or some other local hotel)- is anyone else going up that wants to pack 4 into a room to save some money?
3 Also willing to carpool (we have vehicle) if you are have similar objectives and travel plans (leave Fri afternoon/early evening, return late-ish sunday night).
PM responses to 2+3
-Jesse
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what did you have in mind? i might be keen. ill check back in 2 hours, maybe pm me your phone number?
jesse
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I'll be in Squamish this weekend, probably just cragging.
Due to some complications I don't have a ride back to Seattle. I would like to return Sunday night or Monday. Anyone going to be up there that I could get a ride back with? You're welcome to crag with me and some other friends that will be up there.
PM me.
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found some rock gear climbing in wa pass this weekend
PM me and describe to claim
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describe to claim
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This weekend a friend of mine and I plan to climb Shuksan by the Price Glacier and descend via Fischer Chimneys- dropping us not at our car.
We are wondering if any other party is planning to do the same route during the same time period and might be interested in pooling our resources to do a car shuttle.
Any other ideas or experiences would be welcomed (bike stash? hitch hike? alternative descents)
-J
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Is there any rock climbing on San Juan Island?
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anyone care to share experiences with the or nighthaven or bd betalight? know of others in the same class?
thanks
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If anyone is thinking of heading out to Banks Lake or Lillooet for the 3 day weekend, I'd be super keen to join.
PM me if you want to swap ability/experience info.
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I'm thinking about getting a GPS- specifically a Garmin 60CSx.
Anyone have one?
Recommend any internet review sites?
Used the MapSource 24K Topo Northwest?
I haven't decided if I really want/need the whistles on the 60CSx or if I should look into a unit that essentially gets you back to your tent/car. What I am really concerned with is getting the unit that picks up signals most reliably.
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PM me if you have a guidebook to Potrero Chico you would be willing to lend/rent/sell.
Any other beta about the area appreciated.
Thanks
GPS for Mexian Volcanos
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
I'm thinking about a trip to climb Orizaba and Ixtaccihuatl.
Anyone have a GPS that they have loaded decent local (Mexico) topos on?
I don't own a GPS but I'm looking around now as I'd like to have one for this trip. If you know of something that would work well for this application, please let me know.