Climb: Mt. Rainier-Tahoma Glacier
Date of Climb: 6/25/2006
Trip Report:
Dates of Trip: 6/23 - 6/26/06
Day 1: Departed Westside Road via bikes to Round Pass, which didn't save all that much time but was heaven when we returned. Hiked to the Wonderland Trail and up to St. Andrews Park, continuing up the ridgeline to Tokaloo Spire to camp for the first night. Approx. 8 hours from car to camp.
Day 2: Hiked via the Puyallup Cleaver and Glacier past the 9,200' camp and descended onto the Tahoma Glacier. Lots of postholing in the intense heat and we wanted to relax in the afternoon, so we established a high camp on the glacier ~10,000'. Some snowbridges had already disappeared where you could still see tracks.
Day 3: Departed camp in the dark at 2:15 am and followed the established boot track through the lower crevasses and reached to bottom of the hourglass in about 2 hours. Conditions are great and hardpacked as the route is in the shade for most of the morning as we moved up the slopes of the hourglass. No pickets were used. I was slowed by nausea, major digestive issues and dehydration, finally calling it quits at 14,200' while Dan and Joe continued to the summit around 12:30. Almost unbearable heat on the descent with significant postholing across the lower glacier and snowbridges to high camp, to which we arrived at 5:00 pm. A long day.
Day 4: Descended all the way from high camp to Westside Road in approx. 9 hours. We were only roped up to get off the Tahoma Glacier and up onto the Puyallup Cleaver; postholing was already a problem by 10 am
Summary: Despite missing the summit, this was a wonderful mountain experience and a terrific route if you have the extra time and desire a more wild Mt. Rainier experience. On 6/24, we counted 3 parties and only one other one on our summit day. Not very technical, but offers much glacier travel and route finding. Not sure how much longer some of the snowbridges will last though. It was a very hot weekend as everyone else experienced, so early starts are a must for safer glacier travel. Snow is melting quick as huge sections of St. Andrews Park were bare and flowered upon our return after just a few days. I'll be back to make the summit!!
Making our way from St. Andrews Park
Sunset glow from Tokaloo Spire
Tahoma Glacier and Point Success
Dropping down onto the Tahoma Glacier
High Camp on the Tahoma Glacier
Joe in the sun shadow on summit day
Nearing to top of the hourglass and 13,000'
Descending the crevasses to high camp
Gear Notes:
ice axe / crampons
probe / shovel
2 pickets each (not used)
2 screws (not used)
Approach Notes:
Ride bikes to Round Pass!!!
