coldiron

Also, the access road had grown over a half mile from the trailhead, so we cut the brush there too. The trailhead is once again fully accessible.

Brian, Joe and I recently put about 25 man-hours into clearing the Lion's Head approach trail. We probably cut out close to 100 logs and used machetes and even a cordless hedge trimmer to return the trail to its original condition. It's an awesome trail once again! The trail is impossible to lose now... a literal stroll through the forest. 16 years ago, a group of hard-core Spokane climbers had put many hours of upkeep into that trail. I used to see these guys out at Dishman climbing every night after work. Lawn chairs and a cooler of PBR's, smoking dope and crushing old-school 11's and 12's. They had good style and climbed hard... it was cool to continue some work they started long ago. Dishman Dave and Tug are the only two I remember. Does anyone know if any of this crew is still climbing? Lion's Head is a bad-ass, massive chunk of alpine granite. You should get out there and check it out! On a sunny day the Southwest Wall would be great climbing even through October. Route descriptions and beta are being added to Mountain Project. Go get some!

I'll be in Index tomorrow through Tuesday- looking for a partner. Would like to do Davis-Holland, Lovin' Arms, Slow Children, Thin Fingers, Heaven's Gate... or whatever climb you have your eyes on, provided I can thrash my way up it. Text me at (509) 847-8404.

I was there again today with Joe. Zenith is in! It looks a little heads-up at the thin pillar, but looks do-able. H2O2 could probably be climbed now, although a little thin where the pillar touches down. The Cable has not changed. Lots of fat ice at Punchbowl, PeeWees, Brush Bash, More Banks Ice... Banks Lake ice is building fast this week, although the warm weekend will hurt. I think if it cools off next week things will fatten up nicely. Today was nice and cold and stayed high 20's all day despite the forecasted warm temps.

Climbed Banks again yesterday. Ice is building up and getting better. I also took a drive South to Blue, Park, and Lenore Lakes. Nothing was in, and anything East facing is non-existent. Banks is still worth climbing though. Go get some while it's there!

Devil's Punchbowl is in, complete with deathsicles. Zenith?

We climbed at Banks on Saturday, the 4th. Here is what we saw: The Cable is 30 feet from touching down. H2O2 needs a lot of filling in. Lots of good ice in PeeWees playground. I climbed here last week and it was great- took good screws. We climbed Brush Hell, I think? and a nice steep pillar to the left that has a cave behind it. Both climbs were good and protected well. There are some really steep fun moves off icicles over the steep roof in this picture.

The new Canadian Rockies ice guide looks nice, they were selling at Bozeman ice fest. I could only find it online here: Ice Lines: Select Waterfalls of the Canadian Rockies

Ice and mixed partner wanted Dec. 2,3,4,5 I was thinking Hyalite or Canmore. If you're from the West Side, just get to Spokane and I can do the driving from here. The Cascades are also an option if conditions are right (would like to do Pineapple Express, Gerber-Sink, Cotter-Bebie... -Scott

Yes, still lots of mixed steps and ice is forming nicely. Also, I ran up the trail today to below the lake and it was quite warm- lots of melting going on. I'm not sure how warm it was up high, but I think there's a good chance it may have settled out that wind slab. I couldn't tell much about TC conditions yesterday, but the Cotter-Bebie route on D-tail right across from me had lots of early ice forming up.

The road to the TH is open, with packed snow and decent conditions as of Saturday night. The trail is snow-covered but fast up to the lake. Travel above the lake is slow; it's at that intermediate stage where the rocks are somewhat covered, but lots of slippery rock underneath and big holes to step in. Skis will not help you anywhere, unless you're going up just to ski the glacier. Watch out for windslab in the couloirs. We observed whoomphing and fracture propagation in the Colchuck NBC yesterday. It was scary enough that we pushed a couple mixed pitches up the side to avoid the snow and eventually bailed. Lots of wind-loading looks to have occurred over the week- some extreme wallowing was endured!

Just got down from Colchuck. Road is definitely open, about 4" of snow, decent traction. If you're going up high, watch for windslab in the couloirs. Scary whoomphing and fracture propagation in NBC today. Also, plenty of wallowing!

count me in. Scott 509-847-8404

Anybody free on Tues or Wed? I'm down for climbing anything that's in decent shape. Scott 509-847-8404

I'm driving up from Spokane and staying at the Alpine Club hostel in Canmore. Looking for a motivated partner for some or all of that time period. I'll lead WI5+, M7. I'm interested in doing some of the bigger, steeper routes. call or text: (509) 847-8404 Scott