jmckay
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Posts posted by jmckay
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Skied a couple of laps down “Husume”, a steep NW aspect which skies into
the Blackcomb glacier drainage, accessed via the Spearman Gl. As for the
ski quality, it was quit exceptional, unprecedented for this time of year.
Good goggles are a necessity as you should be expecting a face shots with
most turns.
In Immediate lee steep ridge top terrain we were able to ski cut some
small soft slabs 30cm thick. There was limited propagation with these
slabs, but, this limited volume would typically initiate sluffing in the
upper 20-30cm of new snow. This resulting loose snow sluff is capable of
entailing enough volume to knock a skier off there feet or carry a skier
over or into hazardous terrain and even burry a skier in a terrain trap.
We accessed Husume via the Spearman Glacier. Thought limited opportunity
for visual observation, it appeared the coverage on the glaciers is very
good for this time of the year. Of further note, especially in the case of
the upper Spearman Glacier is that it has become more complex over the
summer. As a result, it would be very advisable in even previously
familiar glaciated terrain to us great caution when visibility is limited.
Keith Reid, MG
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These observations and opinions are those o
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Hello,
Climbed part of the Urs Hole today. It is in thin conditions with a bunch of open pools to try not to fall into. We turned around about 2/3 of the way up due to an unformed section with a ton of running water. All being said, it's probably worth giving this one a miss right now.
Looking from the road:
Cascade - Missing sections of ice on the upper pitches and doesn't look great
Rogan's - Bottom looks very thin and unappealing.
Rocks were still showing through the snow in the bowls above the routes this morning. However, with more snow or wind this could change quickly along with the potential for avalanches.
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Assistant Alpine and Assistant Ski guide
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Got back from a week of ice climbing out of Rampart Creek yesterday with the Yamnuska semester program. As noted by many there is a lot more snow in the gullies than usual this year and despite not seeing a lot of avalanche activity we stayed away from most climbs with avalanche hazard above them. Another 15-20cm on the highway yesterday kept us headed for more benign terrain. For those interested, here is a summary of what we climbed and saw.
We climbed at:
Tangle Creek (OK but still a bit thin)
Two 0’Clock Falls (good condition)
Louise Falls (climbed below the roof, pillar still needed a few days and lots of hanging ice hazard)
Elliot Left Hand (ice is great but watch for avalanches now, 2x 60m ropes are best, good trail starts 60m S of the small side road where you park)
Meltout (good)
Shades of Beauty (great condition)
Haffner Creek (still thin but coming along and very wet)
Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
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Went into the Whistler Near country today with Keith Reid, MG and Dave Sarkany, SG. Great day of skiing. This is what might pertain to your trip out there in the next couple of days:
We dug a hole around lunch time and found a series of moderate test results all within the newer snow ( over a meter in the last few days). There was one that stuck out a little more than others, this moderate shear was down 55cm. It was in an interface that didn't really jump out at us visually while doing the profile.
We didn't see anything slide out there but skied quite conservatively. There was some cracking and propagation in isolated lee pockets in the alpine. On the bright side things were settling out really fast. Foot penetration went from 90+cms in the morning to 40cm in the late afternoon. I didn't really chat about it with the other guys a the end of the day, but I would call it CONSIDERABLE in the alpine and MODERATE at treeline.
Alpine temperatures hovered around -3 to -5 for most of the day, it snowed off and on, less than 10cm throughout the day. Winds were light to moderate from the SE.
Although there were 180cms where we dug our pit (6300ft), several areas still have rocks and trees sticking through.
Whistler Patrol will still have a day or two of avalanche control work to do out in the east before they open the Harmony and the new Flute Chair. Check in to be sure of the safest route out that way. Also plan on an hour in the base area to get a backcountry pass, everyone is lining up to get their seasons' passes and edge cards.
On the ski down Whistler Mountain there were several unmarked hazards that the crews just haven't gotten to yet, so stay attentive until you are at the Pub.
Conny Amelunxen
Mountain Guide,
ACMG
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Fine skiing for November today on the main Black Prince slopes. The November crust is still saving the day. A fairly good workout breaking trail in 20cms new snow and 30cms unconsolidated snow below that. No recent wind effect to the top of the trees. The crust still carries almost everywhere we skied up and down. With a light touch and an eye for the willows we had good turns from the top to the trail.
No signifigant weak layers found in several rough compression and burp tests. Several healthy sounding avalanches ran from the big slabs in the alpine somewhere on the Warspite/Black Prince ridge.
The weather forecast for Banff, Yoho and Kananaskis seems to point to a calm, showery weekend and the avalanche danger is forecast to decrease over the next two days in Banff, Kootenay and Yoho. However, if the weather forecast is wrong and the wind does blow up high, there just may be avalanches running fairly far and fast out of the steep alpine along the divide. I would not recommend wandering around under any big, steep, alpine terrain on skiis or crampons just yet. If you do, just remember what the Friendly Giant used to say to Rusty, "Look up. Look way up!"
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
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Did the classic Surprise Pass tour today (Nov 21). Total loop from Lake Louise round-trip was about 5 hours. We (Err, I mean Nick) had to break trail the whole way as there were no signs of previous travel from Saddleback Pass onwards.
Snow Conditions: Pits were dug just below Saddleback Pass and then at the top of Surprise Pass. Both offered the same results and similar to what Park's Avalanche Bulletin has been stating: moderate to hard compression tests failing on the thin facet layer immediately above the Nov 7 rain crust. Below the crust is pencil hard snow to the ground. The new storm snow appears to be bonding well to the wind slab from last weeks wind event. Ski pen ranged from 20cm to 35cm. Weather conditions all day were calm winds and snowing steadily at less than 1cm per hour with the temperature being -6 Celsius. Total snow depth at Saddleback Pass and Surprise Pass were both a little more than 100cm.
Now for the goods: knee deep powder top to bottom. The only rock hit was the first turn out of the pass. Some old avy debris was hit under the storm snow about halfway down the run but can be avoided by deeking skiers left. The rock garden just before valley bottom is not an issue since there is plenty of supportive snow.
Note: I have heard stories of folks, while skiing up Sheol Valley, getting suckered up the wrong gully thinking it was Surprise Pass. Be sure to go right to the end of the valley. The proper gully is much shorter and less steep than the first couple sucker gullies (which would put you somewhere undesirable on the ridge of Fairview).
Hard to believe this is November in the Rockies. A little wind though and it will be a different story up there.
Sean Isaac
AAG
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Spent the last two days at Parkers Ridge. No new avalanche activity and great
ski conditions. The snowpack has set up great, with easy trail breaking and a
nice uniform supportive mid-pack on the descent. Even the alpine offered
relatively uniform and friendly ski quality.
It was quite windy today, and conditions are changing with warm temperatures.
Reports of rain to 2300m in the Maligne Lake area, and it was raining from
Sunwapta to Jasper on the highway this evening.
Moderate slope test results down 40 cm and 70 cm on a steep lee alpine feature.
Slabs are forming, and the cornices were showing some growth over the past two
days. Mixed N and SW winds with lots of strong gusts today (reverse and cross
loading).
The Nov 7 rain crust is down about a metre (mid-pack), and was not reactive in
the slope testing.
The warm weather isn't helping the ice. The Weeping Wall is in thin and mixed
conditions (there were a couple parties there today to try Mixed Master and
some other mixed climbs). One party on the 'Stage' beside Curtain Call.
Questionable weather that is a good place to hang out with that much wind
loading happening. Another party parked for Shades of Beauty area. Everything
looks early season thin and white. Tangle Falls has lots of water flowing and
it's hard to find a spot to even ice boulder.
In short, the skiing is better than the climbing!
Jordy Shepherd
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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Up at the Bald hills today with AST group. 0C in parking lot. Strong
ice crust near ground at lake, higher in the snowpack as you ascend.
Near treeline the crust seems variable depending on aspect.
At 7000ft did a test profile at the bottom of "telemark hill" right
where it breaks into the open.
There was are 2 laminated ice crusts here about 30-50 cm down giving
easy to mod compression tests. The result was a sudden collapse
between the crusts.
We also did a reutchblock and got a score of 3 on a low angle 20 deg slope.
It was very windy and snowing fairly hard in the alpine and lots of
wind affect in open terrain. No wumpfing noted but hard to tell in
this weather.
It will certainly be interesting to watch the treeline areas where
the crust is more evident and reactive. I would watch unsupported
features at treeline. Raining on the way home.
I would anticipate an increase in the hazard based on the changing
conditions during today.
Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0
780 852 3237
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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Rain and warm temperatures started this morning at 0500. Contrary to
the public forecast, the rain was steady and became heavy at 1230. At
1240, several large avalanches released on Hudson Bay Mountain. One
size 3.5 hit the Davidson mine road again. Fortunately, it ran a bit
further south in the path and did not block the road completely. The
deposit was moist snow with some dirt in it. Another size 2.5 ran in
the so-called Diamond Face on the Kathlyn flank of Hudson Bay Mountain.
Temperatures are dropping now and most unstable snow seems to have
released. Where that is not the case, I would expect a potential for
large avalanches, even to ground. It certainly is a wild week, and
more snow is forecast.
--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
Mountain Guide IFMGA
Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0
tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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Went up Lesser Flute for some skiing today. Access was from Whistler Mountain. None of the alpine lifts where turning, and the only access was from the bottom of Harmony Chair. Every other route out was cut off by Avalanche Closures and will likely remain that way tomorrow unless the patrol gets to do more avalanche control.
The avalanche control that was done on Harmony Ridge did not cause the snow pack to avalanche. This was, I think, the first avalanche control the ridge had scene - with no skier compaction either. In other areas I did not see any natural, or human triggered avalanches except for a small size 1 sluff on a east facing aspect (skier triggered).
We skiied two runs on the north west side of Lesser Flute. The snow was very enjoyable, reasonably light and had a ski pen of about 25cm. The total height of snow at 1800 meters was 135cm. Most terrain features are pretty well filled in. The creeks are visible dips, but mostly snow covered and easy to ski across.
As for a summary of the snow pack: (where I measured the 135cm height of snow)
There is Fist density snow from the surface down to 35cm. Within that layer there is a layer of stellar snow crystals that caused easy compression tests.
Below that is a layer of 4 Finger Density snow that quickly changed to Pencil density as one looks down the pit wall. This snow showed a couple of Moderate compression tests, but the resulting fractures where irregular breaks.
At 65cm below the surface there is a slight change in density, with looser snow (almost 4 finger density) under the Pencil density snow. Here I managed to get Hard Compression Tests - the fracture was very clean each time. This failure point could be a problem in the future - if it is widespread.
The usual near ground ice layer made up the bottom 30cm of the snow pack. I got a moderate/hard shovel shear test on this.
I'm rating the Hazard at Tree Line (where I was) at Moderate. The Stability as Good.
Definitely feels like winter! The attached photo was taken today from Flute looking E at Oboe Mt.
Dave Sarkany, Ski Guide
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Just got down from a jaunt up to Paul's Ridge where I was able to link a few sweet recoveries before writing off the ski day.
It was -0.5 in the parking lot with about 30cm of snow on the ground. The parking lot and road was plowed while wet, then re-froze so it is a bit bumpy but straight forward with a two wheel drive and winter tires.
The trail up is fully covered. There is an unpredictable breakable crust most of the way up so be prepared for the return to the car. The crust becomes a little more supportive when the trees start to thin out and it easily holds a skier above the cabin. It made for challenging skinning and I wish I had brought my crampons. I measured 95cm at the Red Heather cabin and 110cm at the top of the ridge 1550m. There was 2cm of new snow (groppel) on top of the crust at the ridge that was blowing into 15cm pockets here and there.
It was -3 at ridge-top, snowing a little more than a centimetre an hour with gusty winds. The skiing was challenging because there are rock hard water runnels cleverly hidden in the flat light.
With the forecasted snow this weekend should be quite fun up there. I would advise a cautious approach as the current conditions make for a great sliding surface for a future avalanche.
Cheers,
Conny Amelunxen
MG
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Climbed icicle Fairy with Pierre yesterday. The route
is in, with the ice hanging just below the last bolt
and the first pitch thick enough to get some shorter
screws in. The ice isn't hanging far enough to stem
to it though, so exiting the rock is quite physical
and felt harder than the grade. Second pitch thinner
than usual for the start, and quite wet (mushy), but
very climbable. Lots of snow out there though (knee
to sometimes thigh deep) postholing and high winds
yesterday that covered our tracks immediately. It
didn't feel overly dangerous yesterday with the
quality of the snow, but with all the winds I might
wait until the weather settles more before venturing
there.
Sarah Hueniken
Assistant Alpine Guide
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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Went to Haffner Creek today for some mixed action. Definitely not the place to go if you are looking for proper ice climbing. The regular ice pillars are not yet formed (see attached photos). The little bit of ice that is present on them happens to be very thin and chandeliered. These need a while longer until they will be ready to climb.
However, if drytooling and thin ice is your bag then some of the bolted mixed rigs are good to go. Half n'Half, Shagadelic, Californication and Swank were climbed today but the ice portions of these routes are far from being fat and do not readily accept ice screws thus fairly runout by Haffner standards. Top outs are a challenging combination of loose scree and half frozen dirt. Everything is dripping hard so another week or more should see the ice filling out as long as temperatures stay below freezing.
PS- Snowing lightly all day.
-Sean Isaac, ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
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Apologies if this is redundant but don't recall seeing a post on it so:
There was an avalanche incident on November 13 somewhere in the Golden area. A group of snowmobilers were spread out while crossing an avalanche path on a logging road at about 1310m (4300 feet) elevation. This would be below treeline so it would seem this was a slide path with start zone(s) above and a track or runout that crosses the road. The fourth person across was struck by an avalanche and partially buried. No injuries but a close call. What triggered the slide is not known and I have no other details. It's kind of old news by now but worth knowing that there's enough snow out there to make avalanches possible and it would appear they are capable of running well down into the track or runout zone in some places.
Things have probably not improved over the last few days since this incident. The leading edge of the latest front passed through Revelstoke around 11 a.m. PST today bringing scattered showers and strong, gusty winds to the valley bottom. If it's windy in Revelstoke, it's probably honking at upper elevations. This evening at 11 p.m. it's +4 degrees and the rain started again in earnest earlier in the evening so I suspect it's dumping a few hundred metres above town.
The Canadian Avalanche Centre have started issuing avalanche forecasts. Go to www.avalanche.ca if you want to read their take on things. If you're not already on their list, it's not a bad idea to sign up to have the forecasts emailed to your inbox whenever they are issued. You can do that from the bulletins page on the website.
Winter is here to stay. Yippee!
Karl Klassen
Mountain Guide
1735 Westerburg Road
Revelstoke, BC
Canada
V0E 2S1
250-837-3733
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Went back up to Stanley Headwall today (Nov 15) to the Killer Pillar area at the end of the headwall.
There is a little more snow on the trail then when I was there last Friday (5 days ago) but still not enough for skis since we were frequently walking on rocks underneath.
My main concern is it snowed all day at an average rate of 1cm/hour; sometimes more, sometimes less but fairly steady. The slopes below Nemesis sport variable depths of snow coverage ranging from 10cm to 50cm. The wind in the valley itself was moderate with strong gusts and starting to create some soft slabs. Lots of spindrift pouring down the cliff but no avalanche activity noted, YET. I personally would not want to go up there the next couple of days due to the new snow and wind redistributing it. Nemesis has big real estate above and who knows what is going on up there.
Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide
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Climbed R+D today. Very dense ice, hard to penetrate and easy to get picks
stuck if you weren't hooking. There is a wide variation of snow conditions
in that bowl, but one thing is very certain. All the avalanche terrain that
effects the approach and the routes in Ranger Ck has enough snowcover to
produce signifigant avalanches with the next big weather change.
This would apply equally to Parallel Falls, the Drip at the Centre of the
Universe, possibly French Ck.and probably most routes in avalanche terrain
along the Divide in Banff and Jasper.
I felt Ok in Ranger Ck. today but would have to think long and hard before I
would go back after any snowfall, rain or big warming. It is a great early
season climbing area that often sees upwards of 50 people a week before the
snows comes. It would, however, probably be a very bad habit to climb there
regularly all winter. In questionable stability, it is a nasty place, with
180 degrees of steep avalanche terrain, LOTS of wind effect, a junkshow
snowpack and no where to hide. An awfully committing place for one pitch of
grade 3.
We carried beacons, probe and shovel on the approach and it felt like the
right thing to do in that snow covered avalanche terrain
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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At 1100 m on Hudson Bay Mountain, 20 cm of snow fell today at a temperature of
-2 degrees and southerly winds. Another 15 to 20 are forecast for the valley
bottom overnight. I expect large natural avalanches overnight, particularly if
the temperature rises as forecast. It was too socked in today to see anything.
Some avalanches could run to the valley bottom on the debris that filled the
paths in on 28 October.
Christoph Dietzfelbinger, Mountain Guide
Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers B.C. Canada V0J 2N0
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca
tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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I drove through Rogers Pass today intending to go for a tour on my home from Golden – unfortunately the road closure due to a 4 or more semi pileup on Heather Hill delayed my travels and by the time I was at Rogers Pass (snowing 1-2 cm/hour) I thought better of the plan and continued home.
I did go for a tour to Balu Pass on Nov.9 and at that time I managed to ski from the hotel and didn’t have to hike with my skis at all (extra caution needed where the tree cover has protected the trail from snowfall – means it could be prudent to walk in a few spots on the way down).
There were numerous old wet avalanches from the previous weekends rain event that had run to midway (or farther) down most of the major avalanche paths that run off Mt. Cheops above Connaught Ck.
As well one avalanche (size 2.5) crossed the summer trail just after it crosses the creek to the north side of the valley (this path is known locally as “Frequent Flyer”) – the wet deposit carved a deep frozen gulley in the snow that is awkward to cross with skis on (means I took mine off).
The crust from the rain event was buried below 15-20cm. of new snow and at valley bottom was not fully frozen nor supportive but was not a problem on the existing uphill track that follows the summer trail – higher up the valley the crust was supportive as air temps dropped and the snow amount climbed to 25cm. (but was variable depth in wind exposed areas). The skiing was good and at that time the new snow was not sliding on the crust – however some of the snow did feel a little stiffer due to wind effect and we stayed away from steeper convex slopes for this reason.
Since that day the snow has continued and I would expect that there is at least 60cm. or more over the crust now and given the severity of the weather I would expect there has been significant wind above the treeline – so if you are heading out be cautious and keep the reins in check until the bond to the early Nov. Crust has a chance to adjust to this recent snow load. Tuesday should be cooler with a break in the storm but the forecast and models show a significant rise in freezing levels on Wednesday accompanying another storm front – I wouldn’t be surprised if this triggers an avalanche cycle in the backcountry.
Oh ya and then there is the deadly drive on the highways!
Keep them slippery side down (at least us old guys anyway)
Scott Davis
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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Went to Haffner Creek today for some mixed action. Definitely not the place to go if you are looking for proper ice climbing. The regular ice pillars are not yet formed (see attached photos). The little bit of ice that is present on them happens to be very thin and chandeliered. These need a while longer until they will be ready to climb.
However, if drytooling and thin ice is your bag then some of the bolted mixed rigs are good to go. Half n'Half, Shagadelic, Californication and Swank were climbed today but the ice portions of these routes are far from being fat and do not readily accept ice screws thus fairly runout by Haffner standards. Top outs are a challenging combination of loose scree and half frozen dirt. Everything is dripping hard so another week or more should see the ice filling out as long as temperatures stay below freezing.
PS- Snowing lightly all day.
-Sean Isaac, ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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Why would you wish that on anybody. What has he ever done to you?
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Climbed Murchison Falls today.
The Parkway did not share its usual impressive views.
Not much visibility was had from road elevation between 9:30 and 18:00 (
late start).
The snow getting to the route was just enough to provide coverage and good
traction.
Once in the open below the route depth is variable, lots of wind activity,
snow drifts increased areas to knee depth, yet still much exposed rock.
Overall volume of snow in the lower bowl not a big issue YET but slabs are
forming.
The route can be best described as fun with adequate protection and
currently hard for its "guide book" grade with some early season hazards.
Main characteristics are ice lenses with rotten snow and ice bellow, found
on most ledges.
However, things are never desperate but remain technical until the end.
The upper left side was dripping and the route does appear ro be filling in
quickly.
During the day snow came down averaging 1 to 2 cm per hour.
At 19:00 lots of new snow on the road all the way to HWY1.
Patrick Delaney
Ass. Alpine guide
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
To add to Patrick's excellent report, the top 15 m did have slightly less
than adequate protection (though it is easier climbing) -- bring a couple
extra long screws and be prepared to excavate deeply through the crap to the
better, though sun-rotten, stuff below. Be careful on those ice lenses,
there is a huge hole into the rushing water that crumbled into existence as
I was exiting near the top.
Tom Wolfe
AAG
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The following is a report on conditions observed at the Stanley Headwall today (Nov 10).
Approach: It is that in between time of the season when there is just enough snow to make walking tedious but not enough to warrant skis. 10cm of snow at the parking lot and on the lower trail which became deeper as the hike progressed. By the time we left the trail and the trees there was 20 to 40cm making for awkward stumbling through the scree below Nemesis and up to the Thriller Cave. Going to need a good base and more snow before skis will be useful. 6 pairs of feet stomped up and down the trail today; however, 3cm of fresh snow fell during the day and it was still snowing lightly when we left so our nicely packed trail might be gone by tomorrow.
Snow Conditions: It was -7 C at 1950m at 10:00am at the Thriller Cave. The big slopes below the routes have approximately 35cm of snow consisting of 15cm of low density fluff over the 5cm thick Nov 7 rain crust. The rain crust did not support walking. No wind effect noted in the valley. Due to the low ceiling, we could not see the slopes above the Nemesis and Suffer Machine. No recent avalanche activity noted from our limited perspective.
Route Conditions: Stanley ice is a little bit behind schedule for this time of year but there is still lots of water flowing and ice is growing. Hopefully the temperatures will stay mild thus keeping the tap on. See attached photos of French Reality area, Suffer Machine and Nemesis
French Reality: Lots of thin looking ice in the lower mixed corner. The upper pillar is not yet connected.
Nightmare of Wolfe St: Not in yet but close.
Acid Howl: Not even close
Suffer Machine: Fully formed and looks thick enough but still narrow in places. Might be problematic getting from the aid-bolt traverse to the ice. A team attempted it today but backed-off from part way up the first pitch (the M7 rock pitch).
Nemesis: It was climbed today. Appears in WI6 conditions right now but still wet so should continue to fill out.
Thriller Cave: Thriller is in usual mixed shape but will get bigger since it is still dripping. The hanging ice pillars of Roto Tiller and Distiller are as big as I have seen.
Sinus Gully: Formed. We had a drill with us so replaced the mank bolt anchor at the top.
-Sean Isaac, Assistant Alpine Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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R&D is still in good shape with a few short wet sections. There is a great
big pile of debris from a wet avalanche below the climb and the surrounding
snowpack has a 5cm breakable rain crust near the surface with a few cm of
new snow on it.
None of the other pure ice routes have formed in the Ranger Creek basin.
Cheers,
Marc Piché
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more i
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Canadian Avalanche Centre Avalanche Accident Information Report
November 9, 2006
Source: Kananaskis Country Rangers
Date: November 5, 2006
Time: 1310
Location: Mount Inflexible (Kananaskis Country)
Elevation: approx 2600m
Size: 2
Type: Slab Length: Unknown
Width: Unknown Slab Thickness: 50cm (estimate)
Aspect: Northeast
Slope Angle: 35 degrees (estimated)
Slope Configuration: Start Zone – rocky cliff bands with pockets of snow.
Track – ice waterfall.
Runout – Talus slope
Two climbers were ascending a frozen waterfall located on a ridge just south of the Fortress ski area. The climb lies below a large alpine bowl. The climbers were in a narrow gully when an avalanche came from above and swept the climb. The leading climber was partially protected by a rock outcrop which deflected some of the debris around and over him--a close call. The lower climber was buried in the gully. The party did not have avalanche transcievers, probes, or shovels. The surviving climber followed the rope to the vicinity of his partner and dug for approximately 45 minutes with his helmet before going for help. The accident occurred Sunday in the afternoon on an east aspect. The area above the climb was lee to westerly winds, which had been transporting snow at upper elevations early in the storm when it was colder and the snow was dryer. Poor weather hampered efforts to determine exactly what happened but a fracture line was noted in the alpine bowl above the climbers. It is suspected that a smaller avalanche from near the ridge crest at about 2600m (perhaps a sluff) triggered a slab in the bowl, which gained mass as it descended and caught the climbers in the terrain trap below. The victim was found by Kananaskis Country rescue personnel an estimated 300cm below the surface
Western Canada/ November /K country ice
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted
Mark Stanley and I were up on McGill shoulder today at Rogers Pass. Warm morning, -1 at the parking lot at 8:20am with about 12cm of new snow overnight. Cooled off considerably and by noon it was in the –8 range. Light northerly winds with minor transport in the areas we skied, didn’t really see too much of the high country but I’m sure it was blowing hard somewhere. May want to watch out for that pesky reverse loading due to the N winds for the next couple of days in the Alpine and exposed features.
There was about 10cm of slightly colder snow overlying a generally well settled and well bonded snowpack up there. The 10cm was reactive in steep wind affected micro features but nothing of consequence at all – just some cracking and sluffing.
Excellent... I mean excellent skiing. Over the head face shots for the top 2/3 of the run – then into alders and the rain/temperature crust for the lower 1/3. But still more than enjoyable, and the upper 2/3 was worth any minor bushwhack anyway.
Ian Tomm
Assistant Ski Guide