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alpinerack

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Everything posted by alpinerack

  1. My wife and I are meeting in Barcelona after 3 months apart. We are hoping to do a couple days of rock climbing. Does anybody have any recomendations for the area. I was looking at Montserrat but am having a hard time finding appropriate info. We are looking for moderate clip up's as I am planning on only taking a rope and a dozen draws. Should I take trad gear? Any help would be much appreciated.
  2. The bergie is still closed, however, i did notice a hole starting to punch through right off of the climbers boot pack and it looked deep! We had no wind until we reached the summit and the snow conditions were almost perfect.
  3. Climb: Mt. Hood-Hogs Back Date of Climb: 4/24/2006 Trip Report: The forcast was calling for great weather this week so I made the trip back down to Portland to pick up my friend Travis for another attempt on Mt. Hood. We planned on doing it two weeks ago but were driven further East by bad weather. I talked him into doing a one day ascent since I have school on Tuesday night. The hike up the palmer was long and boring, my iPod was very handy here. We had great weather and great snow conditions. It took us about 4 hours to make the summit and another 2 hours to get back down (plus a nap in the crater). I actually got alltitude sickness while in the crater. Kind of odd considering I have been on Rainier 8X and never been sick. Guess I'm getting old. After a 20 minute break and lots of food and water I finally got enough evergy to push on. Once on the summit some clouds came in and we were in a complete white out. We spent little time there cause of the wind and cold. The moment we climbed back to the crater the sun came out again. Just our luck! Me climbing the hogs back. Going through the gate. The summit in a windy and cold white out. Travis descending the summit slopes. and on the way back to the car. Gear Notes: ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: straight up from the parking lot!
  4. Climb: Snow Creek Wall-Outer Space III 5.9 Date of Climb: 4/18/2006 Trip Report: Yeah, I know, it's another late TR. Conrad (aka thekorn) and I met throught the cascadeclimbers.com climbing partners forum. We quickly made plans for a trip to 11worth to get aquanted with one another. With no actual plans in mind, we decided to go check out Snow Creek Wall. The 2 mile approach to the wall went fast until the creek crossing where we would post hole through the snow every other step we would take. Thankfully the snow pittered out as you get closer to the wall. Conrad climbed the first pitch which was a little wet but easy. I did the 4th class traverse to two tree ledge. After the traverse we were stuck in the shade for the rest of the climb. The temperature quickly dropped on the wall which led to a lot of shivering at belays and numb, throbbing fingers while climbing. Conrad lead the 3rd pitch which started with a great 5.8 crack followed by the infamous 5.9 travers. I lead the 4th pitch with a 5.6 runout over big holds followed by 5.8 climbing up the right facing corner up a pedistal. Conrad lead the 5th and 6th pitch which were completely amazing. 300 vertical of pure crack climbing with nobs everywhere for your feet. We topped out with just barely enough daylight to get down the gully before dark. Lots of TICKS!!! They were everywhere! On Tues. the 19th we climbed Gun Rack 5.9 at Clem's Holler and Javeline 5.10a at Special Spot. They were both great climbs. Gun Rack Javeline Thanx for all the great leads Conrad! Gear Notes: Full rack, headlamp wish I brought gloves for my numb fingers! Approach Notes: Lots of punching through the snow at the creek cossing. The descent gully is pretty wet in spots.
  5. Climb: Smith Rocks-Koala Rock Date of Climb: 4/10/2006 Trip Report: I know, I'm 3 weeks late with this one, i've been busy. My friend Travis recently moved to Portland and has been bugging me about taking him up hood. We planned on Mon-Tues (April 10-11) with a high camp at Illumination Rock cause he wants the full on alpine experience. We drive to Hood to find a full on white out and blizzard with no sign of improvment. 2 hours later we arrive in the Smith Rocks parking lot! The place was packed with groups and we didn't have the patience to wait in line to climb. We pulled out the Allen Watts book and came up with Koala Rock as the alternative. It's only about a 30 minute hike up the river and past the irrigation canal to the base of the rock. We started with Round River, only rated 5.4 but it looked like a quick way to get to the top. Because of time we led the first 2 pitches as one, clipping bolts up the first 30 meters of easy 5.4 climbing and then placing a couple of nuts on the upper 30 meters of even easier 5.2 climbing. From the ledge the book recomends climbing through easy ledges to the left but we spotted some more bolts that go straight up from the belay. It ended up being fun, steep and well protected by what looked like new bolts. I guess the Round River Direct is no longer rated R! It was a great climb to start with. Next we moved over to the South side of Koala Rock and climbed Suck My kiss 5.9. It starts with a really fun move around the arete and onto the easier face above. We next set up a top rope on the first pitch of Thin Air 5.8. Thin Air was spectacular, the best climb I have done at Smiffy (Only been there twice before). Round River Direct 5.8 Travis on the 2nd pitch of Round River 5.4 Me leading the 3rd pitch 5.8 Travis following the 3rd pitch Travis climbing Thin Air 5.8 on TR Best of all, we did't see another person the whole time we were climbing. Everone was to busy running laps at the Dehidrals area. Gear Notes: Quick draws and a set of nuts. Wish I took some cams to lead Thin Air. Approach Notes: about 30 minutes of easy and scenic trail.
  6. It's 11:45 Sunday night, but if you still need a partner for tomorrow give me a ring! 206-235-6312
  7. Looking for Weekday climbing partners. I have mondays off and tuesdays off until 5:30. Trying to get back into a steady climbing schedule for this spring and summer. I typically climb up to 5.9 trad and 10b sport. Most interested in moderate alpine climbs. Goals for the summer: North Ridge of Stuart West Ridge of Forbidden North Ridge of Mt. Baker Adams Glacier on Mt. Adams Anyone interested? PM me or mossyrockstar@gmail.com
  8. Hey Clint, I tried out in 2000, I think? They were hiring 8 people out of about 50. Compitition was pretty intense! One thing I recomend is always be the first to volunteer when they ask someone from your group to demonstrate a skill and always tell them your name. Remind them who you are so you are not just a number. Be prepared to run up to pan point with out snow shoes in deeeeep snow, hopefully you will have a boot track the whole way up. Stuff they will want you to know- snow anchors, hip belay, injury scenarios, avalanche and weather, crevasse rescue, z-pulley and others, self arrest, glacier travel, rest step, parts of an ice axe and crampons, knots, they will have you calmly tell a client that they need to turn around and go back to camp while everyone else summits. Thats all I can think of now. Hope this helps, good luck.
  9. Heres the deal. I have monday's and tuesday's off of work and skull. My main climbing partner (my wife) has a knee injury, my other climbing partner is moving. If anyone has the same time off and wants to get out please PM me. I have my own rack tools ropes car just need a partner
  10. Looking for a solid climber to do the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart. Mon. and/or Tue. are my days off. Sometime in early Sept. would be best. diabodarby@yahoo.com if interested.
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