I'm planning on hitting up the Kautz Glacier route on August 18th with three others. Any ideas on what I should bring that's out of the ordinary - pickets, screws, etc? What will the ice chute be like? Good snow or solid ice? Is the glacier itself heavily crevassed or is it easy to route find? Any information at all would be great. Start up times, bivy sites, access to the route, etc. I have Mike G's guidebook but it doesn't give much as to getting to the route. Good first ascent route or do you have any other alternatives. Thanks a lot.