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plark42

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Everything posted by plark42

  1. Sure thing- I guess if I want to climb mt. hood, i'll just have to do it along with a huge crowd.
  2. For sure- I will break it down for her to digest!! Thanks for the input
  3. Afternoon? wouldn't that put me more at risk with the mountain hazards such as rock and ice fall and weak snow bridges? I think I'd rather face the crowds! Thanks for the input.
  4. Thanks for the responses- I am going to teach the physics first (at home), move on to the anchors in snow and finally try a rescue in a real crevasse... (that I could walk out of if things go wrong). Thanks again!!
  5. Hey CC'ers- I was wondering if any of you have an effective system, method or steps to teach someone else crevasse rescue technique(s). I want to teach in steps, because crevasse rescue requires using a bunch of small things lumped together (equalizing anchors, muenter mule hitch, snow anchors, ascending a rope... etc). Does anyone have any recommendations/preferred methods? I want to teach in small steps starting at home with ascending a rope and move on to the knots and hitches in the system(s) and eventually go out to Elliot glacier on mt. hood and build snow anchors and do a mock rescue. I was taught crevasse rescue techniques in one long day of class and to tell the truth not a whole lot of it sunk in... I've had to refresh myself (which hitch goes where and when etc) with books and pictures. Thanks for the help!! Also- are there any good "anchors" to build on household items (e.g., rapping a sling around a recliner or tv?) to demonstrate systems in the house?
  6. what time would you think is best for that? 12am? 1am?
  7. I think avoiding the crowds (and minimizing the impact of human error) might be a better judgment call than minimizing the risk of the steepness (i.e., taking the hogsback/pearly gates route). Thanks for all the help- any pictures would be nice
  8. Thanks for the info- It sounds like a good time... and a straightforward route. Any more pics would be awesome!!! thanKs!!!
  9. Hello CC'ers- I was wondering what the route up mt. Adam's mazama glacier was like right now... I have heard that this route is a good first "real" glacier climb- any thoughts? Would it be wise to do it with only a second? I have some glacier travel experience but my second does not (and I will teach and practice glacier travel stuff with her before we go of course). I just wanted to know if this route would be a good first glacier for her to climb on. Thanks for the info-
  10. Thanks for the advice.. We are both taking a snow climbing class this saturday (as a refresher)... so.. we should be fine. I am going to bring a short rope and snow pro along anyway just in case she (or I for that matter) feel sketched out.
  11. Thanks for all the responses- I will look into the west crater rim variation... it seems like it would be more fun anyway (more solitude) and maybe a bit safer- (with a belay). Does it require a second tool? or front-pointing? How steep is it? Thanks!!
  12. Thanks for the info- I was planning on bringing a short and light 30m 9mm rope and some pickets just in case. I think it won't be necessary though (based on all the pictures I've viewed). Thanks for the responses.
  13. Has anyone recently been up the South side/Hogsback route up Hood? If so, what conditions are at the top near the pearly gates? My girlfriend and I want to summit mt. hood- should I bring a rope for the upper part of the hogsback/pearly gates? Or would I just get in the way of other climbers if I took the time to set up a belay for her/myself (or is it even necessary???) I've heard a bunch of different things about the hogsback and pearly gates- varying from easy (with steps already there) to icy and you fall you die. I also heard that it is a "bowling alley" for rock and ice, so I guess a belay would be unreasonable. I am a relatively experienced mountaineer (in Colorado and Alaska) and she is taking a climbing class this weekend to refresh her snow skills. I guess I am just asking for the overall impression of that part of the climb... is it difficult (requires front-pointing?) or just easy and a bit hairy... Thanks for the advice.. Hopefully my lack of knowledge won't insult anybody. If so, I'm sorry.
  14. Is the Elliot Glacier in good shape to practice on in July? Will I be able to use pickets and flukes or should I bring some ice screws? How hard/steep is the Hogsback up Mt. Hood? I've heard everything from easy and 35 degrees to icy, tough and 45 degrees. Guess I'll just have to get up there and figure it out. Thanks for the responses- I will definitely look into the Mazama glacier route up Adams!!
  15. I am a NOLS mountaineering alum and I know the basics of glacier travel. My girlfriend is new to the sport. Where is a good place to go where there is easy glacier travel (close to Portland) so I can teach her rope techniques and crevasse rescue? Thanks!
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