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counterfeitfake

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Posts posted by counterfeitfake

  1. i smelled some wretch odor, like a hippy smell when their patcholi wears off. then i realized i need to take a shower. been conserving water by drinking only beer and no showers.

     

    I've often wondered about a beer/coffee only day. How does that work for you?

  2. We're talking about a guy who had as his signature for many years, "I love pussy but never the bitch it's attached to."

     

    How are any of you taking the guy seriously at all?

  3. I think racking with a clean nose wiregate might prevent wired gear from freeing itself and taking the plunge.

     

    A while ago I was on a quest to find the ultimate racking 'biner. I thought it would be a clean nose wiregate, and bought about 5 different kinds. I was picky and found all of them lacking in some regard. Some of them have really small gate openings. I know I own a Helium but I can't remember which one that is. I am still mostly using Neutrinos.

  4. I just returned from the Bugaboos and they are in great condition. B-S col is still mostly filled in, the 'schrund is just starting to open. The glaciers are mostly covered with no crevasses showing. Most routes seem to be free of snow. The weather was nice for 3 days in a row. Go get it!

  5. P2 of McTech Arete. The most strikingly beautiful line I've ever climbed. I did it a couple months after leading my first 5.10a and I remember it as one of the hardest leads I've ever done. I think I didn't hang, but don't quote me on that...

  6. If you can't reach it, you can't retreive it. Routes where this is the standard approach will therefore usually have a piece fixed there.

     

    If you're just cleaning a traverse, hopefully your follower left the pieces close enough together that you can clean each one.

     

    You can also re-aid a section, if you have the gear for it.

  7. Fox, I am not talking about that, although we had a look at it on the way down. Looks good, and a party we met up there had just come off it and gave it the thumbs-up.

     

    Peter is right, it's the wide crack in the left side of the bay, up the right side of which goes Rattletale P3. Vertical to slightly overhanging, and probably 9" wide, not quite wide enough to get my hip in, but narrow enough for heel-toe most of the way and good chicken-winging (if there is such a thing). Oh and dirty and mossy, although less so today than yesterday.

     

    Is that Chasin' the Lizard? I was guessing it would be an Index 5.10a OW but I don't know me offwidths so good.

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