counterfeitfake
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Posts posted by counterfeitfake
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Sorry, I didn't really notice the "climbing boot" specification there, but that stuff might help anyway. I've usually heard of this mod in the context of serious skiers doing a hack job on their favorite pair of downhill boots, so they can tour without giving up downhill performance.
Maybe you could work the fittings into a plastic climbing boot, at least. I think it's one of those "anything is possible" kind of goals- how much time and/or money do you have?
On the other hand, with the newest generation of dynafit boots, I feel like the gap is getting smaller and smaller, and there is less of a need. The TLT5 felt like a high-top sneaker to me, in walk mode, and the BD Quadrant was almost as nimble.
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Is it possible to add the tech binding receptor cups to existing climbing boots?
It's been done before, it's not easy, if you google it you will find some good results.
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I've never seen one of your trip reports, John. Maybe you can write one up when you get back from the Alps.
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A humbling route, for sure.
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I disagree. The cops will care at least to some degree, report the theft.
After looking at the ledge I really don't think that block came down by itself. I think it was jacked, probably by climbers, probably by climbers jacked up on meth.Oh stop it.
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That is awesome! I had long theorized that no camera could survive passage through the Pressure Chamber.
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The thing in the picture looks way more complicated than you need. Why not a single figure eight into the quick link?
That's if you're going to use it at all. For traversing a fixed line I'd be more likely to use two daisy-chains, or just slings, or even one, with two carabiners on it.
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I feel like a double set of everything up to #3, plus some hooks and cam hooks, would do it. But you should search around to see whether I'm right.
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I think it's an interesting topic.
It just isn't. It's just bickering over a classification, with no purpose. You're going to stop calling Half Dome a big wall because one guy climbed it without a rope in 2.5 hours? It's ridiculous. Most people know what "big wall" means and if someone's genuinely confused it's easy to use more words to explain what is meant. "Alpine big wall" or "Big-wall feel". Trying to come up with a rigid set of qualifications is just pointless and nerdy.
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Lover's Lane, the Zipper, the Fly.
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Yeah, you're not looking for a big wall, you're looking to start on a small wall. Do the two classics on the Index UTW, Town Crier and Green Drag-on. When you're a n00b each will probably take you more than a day, and you can sleep on the ground. Once you get faster they're very reasonable one-day affairs.
There is some potential at Squamish. University Wall comes to mind, I've been 3 pitches up it and it was reasonable for a relative beginner. I think there is a Squamish Big Walls book still available at the Climb On, and here's some more info: http://www.matthewbuckle.net/climb/beta/squamish/squamishaid.php
My first big wall was The Prow on Washington Column in Yosemite, it was a great experience. Liberty Crack is good too. But definitely get your aid dialed in some before striking off on something big.
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Well there has been a death from this....
Yeah, I understand that. It's a danger we should be aware of. But I don't understand why you'd clip like in the picture.
Let's see, keeps the rope end biner from cross loading, makes it easier to clip, and in the case of the DMM gear mentioned, makes unclipping the right strand of the extendable sling easier in addition to the above.Okay, maybe we are talking about different applications. In an alpine draw I find the flexibility to be the key in making the draw easy to clip. I am not really worried about a biner in a floppy draw getting cross-loaded since it's free to move as soon as force is applied. And I don't think I would want Petzl Strings on my trad rack as it seems like they will only get in the way of racking.
But at any rate, if you wanted all these things you see as advantages, you could do it, you just have to not clip like in the picture. Which should be easy because it is not something you have any reason to do. Or am I missing something?
FYI just about every quickdraw made nowadays uses some sort of rubber keeper, the kind folks at Petzl make one that is way more durable, and works really well and can be re-used but has the added benefit of being dangerous.Well some do, some don't. But they're quickdraws.
To me it always comes down to understanding your gear and using it properly. Everything we do with every piece of gear has potential risk and we should always take that seriously and make sure we understand what we're doing before we do it. There are instances where I might use a piece of gear in a way not specified in the owner's manual, but I wouldn't do it on a whim.
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I'm very confused about what you're suggesting. How were you using these rubber things with cams and nuts?
I never understood why you'd WANT to use one of those rubber things with an open sling. Even if it weren't dangerous, it doesn't seem like it would have ANY benefit.
BUT- if you WERE going to use it with an open draw... why would you then clip it as shown in this picture?
Sure it would kill you if you did it... but why would you do it? What would you be trying to accomplish?
I don't really understand the existence of the rubber things as a product, period. And their name is ridiculous and makes them hard to talk about.
Okay, rant over.
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Ah, nevermind, I jugged that pitch. It was the "free move" I was thinking of.
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The end of the bolt ladder is a fixed circlehead
Really! That is something new, isn't it? I don't remember that.
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Somewhere near The Prow, on Washington Column, Yosemite:
It's a pity, I clipped the mankiest mank I ever have clipped on P2 of that route, but I was definitely not in the mood for photography.
Surely someone has a pic of the square-knotted copperhead on Liberty Crack?
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Really depends. Last year there weren't bugs on the 4th of July weekend. Four years ago they were horrendous. But that didn't stop me from climbing Liberty Crack.
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Bad idea. Likely to be too cold. Might be a different story in August.
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Have you tried contacting Garmont?
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"doing it for the money" is an expression.
McDonald's employees get paid, too, but I doubt they're "doing it for the money."
...what pray tell ARE they doing it for?
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What is YOUR point? Are you trying to say a reputable climbing company is making a belay device that is dangerously weak? Or has "too aggressive teeth" for your liking? Belay devices don't see much force, cast aluminum is strong enough, those teeth don't damage ropes.
You're the one saying you don't trust aluminum "sport gear" and would rather use steel, when everyone else here uses nothing but aluminum equipment, and you're the one saying you think a 10.3 climbing rope is disconcertingly thin, when everyone else here is climbing on ropes in the 9.X range.
Take the advice or don't, quit arguing.
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Bump! $80 or BEST OFFER!
Seriously, make me an offer!
It will be the best one!
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Marc's TR is pretty awesome.
I was really just asking how strong you have to be to french the bolt ladder, I've done it the slow way twice. I don't think the Free Grand is in my future.
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