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counterfeitfake

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Posts posted by counterfeitfake


  1. We don't need to know your oppinion
    You know it now, you can't un-know it!

     

    Is that a determining factor as to whether we qualify for the permit and for which zone?
    Nope, I was just trying to understand your timeline.

     

    I'm not sure all the rangers are on the same page on that. When I last inquired I was told the ridge is in the BB zone. Which makes no sense, IMO.

    Oh shit, there it is, another opinion!

     

    Talking to non-climbing rangers about climbing stuff just doesn't work very well. But when I went up there a couple months ago, I was told by the non-climbing ranger that anything north of the ridge was Forbidden zone, which in my OPINION (watch out Oleg!) HAS to be the truth. There is no other dividing line.


  2. Did you do the legit first pitch?

     

    I was up there a couple years ago with a friend who'd climbed P1 of the Waterway and then 2 pitches of GA. We went up and replaced the anchor on the big ledge, which I think would be the bottom of P3 of GA.

     

    My friend, fenderfour here on CC, thought that P1 was kind of sketchy looking in it's current state, and might need some bolt replacement. He thought the Waterway was a good means to access the rest of GA. If I remember correctly he thought what he climbed of GA was really good, and the parts above that he didn't do also looked good.

     

    I thought he did not use a hammer. You might be able to get some info if you contact him.


  3. Good report, nice pics!

     

    I skied the SW chutes last Saturday, it was in great shape, no sun-cups. The south spur would ski well too, if that's your bag. We skied down right about noon which was good corn timing, the south spur would warm up faster. Approach on snow was super easy, good boot pack, I did it all in approach shoes with ski poles, no crampons, ymmv.


  4. I've noticed that rock climbing is really not friendly to their less experienced participants.

     

    Bullshit. I spend hundreds of hours every year instructing beginners. Nobody has ever asked me anything as stupid as "how do I not sit on my cams?" If you lack common sense to this degree, I would advise you that climbing is not a sport you should be involved in.


  5. You move the cams out of the way of your ass. Any child could have answered that, your question was idiotic. Your others have been pretty bad, too.

     

    I appreciate the idea that the newbies forum should be spray-free, but you're wasting our time. You said you learned to climb 20 years ago. And you have a baby. You're not going anywhere. Come back when you're serious.


  6. Here's the rub: when walking downhill (toes pointed straight down the sloop) on the little ramp in the shop, my toes, mostly only in the left foot, crash into the tow box. Not anything painful, but noticeable. My fear is that it may be tolerable for a few steps in the store, but could become more painful with thousands of steps down a mountain. No beuno...

    However, 90% of their usage will be for vertical ice climbing in the East which there is no problem with, even when trying to aggressive kick the toes like when front pointing.

     

    My experience has shown me that if my toes slide to the front of the boot while walking downhill, they do the same while frontpointing on vertical ice. I've lost toenails over both.

     

    Having a low-volume foot is a hassle. Shoe "size" is one dimension, and it's usually the only one that we are given by the boot manufacturer. When I try on boots I tell the salesperson I have a really skinny foot, and see what happens. It's taken a lot of trial and error for me to understand what fits and what doesn't.


  7. I'd recommend the east ledges descent on Forbidden. It is much faster than down climbing the west ridge and makes for a full traverse experience. It is nice to finish with the stellar rock on the west ridge too, and descending Torment isn't as nice as descending Forbidden, having done both.

     

    For those competent enough to do the T-F traverse, the east ledges are reasonable, but I still think they suck pretty bad. Loose, shitty, unprotectable, nervewracking. I do agree it is cool as far as taking your route clear around the mountain. YMMV!


  8. Nice!

     

    Most parties seem to go from Torment to Forbidden, but I have wondered about the idea of climbing the E Ridge of Forbidden to start the traverse, and then going from Forbidden to Torment. Seems like a more aesthetic route, since it has no backtracking.

     

    I guess it might be a bummer to watch rock quality deteriorate for the whole time between peaks, and maybe the descent down Torment is not so great?

     

    What do you think?


  9. It is definitely possible to climb Lane peak right now. The question is how?

     

    You may still be able to climb up the Zipper or the Fly, I have seen reports of these being skied into July.

     

    If you aren't sure those are in, an approach from the south is a safe bet.

     

    Summitpost.org has more details.


  10. Having been up to Burgundy both when it's snowy and when it's not, having the col covered by snow is a lot easier to deal with.

     

    If you are trying to ditch an ice axe and crampons, don't forget the trick where you can kick steps the afternoon before.

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