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counterfeitfake

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Posts posted by counterfeitfake

    Mount Stuart

    in Newbies

    Posted

    It was snowing down to 3000 feet the last couple of days, did you notice that? I saw fresh snow on Whitehorse and 3 Fingers this morning, and they are much shorter than Stuart.

     

    You'll be traveling in snow, so you need to be prepared for that, and it's already the time of year that avalanches may start to pose a threat. Not a lot of people go up Stuart in the winter. It certainly can be done, but it's a whole different ballgame from climbing it in the summer.

    Rookie Stripes

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Some 'aspiring hardman' has been hard at work at Index lately. Several of the 'tougher' lines have lots of chalk on them and that's awesome: it's nice to see that all the harder climbs are getting mileage, but the tick marks that have appeared on every foothold, handhold or giant, obvious jug are whack. There's even 'foot dot' marks on Shirley, which is a stemming corner! WTF?

     

    Go ahead and dab it up with your rookie stripes if that's what it takes for you to send your proj, but will you at least take the time to brush them off afterwards? Otherwise I'm going to do it and then you won't know where to put your feet the next time you try to go for the redpoint, bro.

     

    I've always thought this kind of post was rooted in egotism.

     

    Hasn't rained in 2 months. Don't worry, it'll all be washed away in a couple weeks.

    [TR] FORBIDDEN Fruit - East Ridge direct - West Ridge carryover 9/15/2012

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    We don't need to know your oppinion
    You know it now, you can't un-know it!

     

    Is that a determining factor as to whether we qualify for the permit and for which zone?
    Nope, I was just trying to understand your timeline.

     

    I'm not sure all the rangers are on the same page on that. When I last inquired I was told the ridge is in the BB zone. Which makes no sense, IMO.

    Oh shit, there it is, another opinion!

     

    Talking to non-climbing rangers about climbing stuff just doesn't work very well. But when I went up there a couple months ago, I was told by the non-climbing ranger that anything north of the ridge was Forbidden zone, which in my OPINION (watch out Oleg!) HAS to be the truth. There is no other dividing line.

    golden arch - index

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by counterfeitfake

    Did you do the legit first pitch?

     

    I was up there a couple years ago with a friend who'd climbed P1 of the Waterway and then 2 pitches of GA. We went up and replaced the anchor on the big ledge, which I think would be the bottom of P3 of GA.

     

    My friend, fenderfour here on CC, thought that P1 was kind of sketchy looking in it's current state, and might need some bolt replacement. He thought the Waterway was a good means to access the rest of GA. If I remember correctly he thought what he climbed of GA was really good, and the parts above that he didn't do also looked good.

     

    I thought he did not use a hammer. You might be able to get some info if you contact him.

    [TR] Mt Adams - South Side 7/24/2012

    in Southern WA Cascades

    Posted

    Good report, nice pics!

     

    I skied the SW chutes last Saturday, it was in great shape, no sun-cups. The south spur would ski well too, if that's your bag. We skied down right about noon which was good corn timing, the south spur would warm up faster. Approach on snow was super easy, good boot pack, I did it all in approach shoes with ski poles, no crampons, ymmv.

    Is that a cam up my ass?!!??

    in Spray

    Posted

    I've noticed that rock climbing is really not friendly to their less experienced participants.

     

    Bullshit. I spend hundreds of hours every year instructing beginners. Nobody has ever asked me anything as stupid as "how do I not sit on my cams?" If you lack common sense to this degree, I would advise you that climbing is not a sport you should be involved in.

    Is that a cam up my ass?!!??

    in Spray

    Posted

    You move the cams out of the way of your ass. Any child could have answered that, your question was idiotic. Your others have been pretty bad, too.

     

    I appreciate the idea that the newbies forum should be spray-free, but you're wasting our time. You said you learned to climb 20 years ago. And you have a baby. You're not going anywhere. Come back when you're serious.

    Preferred boot fit

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Here's the rub: when walking downhill (toes pointed straight down the sloop) on the little ramp in the shop, my toes, mostly only in the left foot, crash into the tow box. Not anything painful, but noticeable. My fear is that it may be tolerable for a few steps in the store, but could become more painful with thousands of steps down a mountain. No beuno...

    However, 90% of their usage will be for vertical ice climbing in the East which there is no problem with, even when trying to aggressive kick the toes like when front pointing.

     

    My experience has shown me that if my toes slide to the front of the boot while walking downhill, they do the same while frontpointing on vertical ice. I've lost toenails over both.

     

    Having a low-volume foot is a hassle. Shoe "size" is one dimension, and it's usually the only one that we are given by the boot manufacturer. When I try on boots I tell the salesperson I have a really skinny foot, and see what happens. It's taken a lot of trial and error for me to understand what fits and what doesn't.

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