skjos

Added waypoint coordinates and GPS route to download.

Highway 20 is closed in the winter at milepost 134, that would add about 8 miles each way to the trip. There where three or four stream crossings on the trail, one stream on the traverse to the Jerry glacier saddle, another stream or more on the way to Jerry lakes. You could get by with one liter in the heat if you topped off at all the stream crossings.

Thanks for the help, that fixed it.

Jack Mountain 3-Day from the Canyon Creek Trailhead The Canyon Creek trailhead parking lot is on the left hand side between mile marker 141 and 142 as you travel east on highway 20. You will need a National Forest Recreation Pass to park your car here. The Pasyatan Wilderness requires a permit, but luckily these are free and are self-issued a little ways up the trail. After you get your wilderness permit you have 62 switchbacks before the Crater Mountain fork, then some more trail before you finally get above the tree line and into the Crater Lake basin. Crater Lake We cut from the Crater Mountain trail at about the 7,100ft level and traversed northwest to the saddle. Traveling to the Saddle We crossed the Jerry Glacier avoiding the higher crevassed areas, then stayed high on the rock and snow slopes to avoid having to regain elevation. The steep side-hilling was not worth it; go a little bit lower for mellower side-hilling and climb up to the Jerry Lake's saddle. We did not use a rope here, the glacier looked pretty benign, however on our way back we did see a pretty deep hole punched through the snow. Proceed at your own risk. Jerry Glacier looking back from the Jerry Lake's Saddle There are a lot of flat campsites to pick from at Jerry Lakes; we stayed just off the northeast shore of the southwestern most lake. Jerry Lakes and the route out the next day The hike out of Jerry Lakes goes up a grassy slope between the lakes and then turns west on a rising ledge to the make the top. After getting to the top you will need to head just a little more west to get on a nice ramp down the other side heading north. First view of Jack after climbing up from the lakes This will get you to a row of trees; you can either find a path through the trees up high under the cliffs and side-hill through heather on the other side, or continue down adjacent to the trees and cut through at a lower elevation for milder heather side-hilling. Continue north up a small bolder field into a flat area that has a small pond (5960ft). Pond at 5960ft Then climb a short dry drainage to the very large flat area (6000ft). Stay on the south banks of the flat area, until you need to start climbing up the ridge. Flat area at 6000ft Once you get to the true slope of the south ridge, keep to the west side of the cliffs for a short bit and obtain the top of the ridge or stay on the west slopes all the way up to the base of Jack's rocky southern face. On the south ridge below the cliffs Here you will have some step side-hilling until you reach the snow. There are some ledges above the snow, but they eventually run out and the moat gets too deep to make it a feasible route. Just bring crampons and hit the snow, in fact the crampons are great for side-hilling too (bring 12pts, 10pts are not so great for side-hilling). Side-hill to the base of Jack The first feasible route to get on the face of Jack is just a little west of the rock protrusion at 7,200ft (the one below you when you look down the slope), this route was being pounded with water and looked very slippery, we picked the next entrance which had a very small ledge, but was doable (and later we found out it was right under the rappel). The route on rock This picture makes it look steeper than it really is After hitting the ledge from west to east we got onto the main slopes of Jack which initially were quite simple, but the route does get steeper as you gain more altitude (or maybe it just seemed like it did). Starting out ascent after getting onto the face We stayed east of the main drainage until about halfway up and then we cut across it and climbed to a snow field, here we donned crampons and headed up. We got a little higher than the summit pyramid on the snow patch and had to down climb a little bit to get under the base. Crossing under the summit pyramid Once under the pyramid we stuck to the right side (and moat) of the first snow field until the top of the ridgeline, then we crossed briefly to the back side and then headed east to the summit. Moat Climbing (photo was taken on the way down) Last bit to the summit Summit photo for my kids, who are big fans of Batdad On the way up the rock fall can be managed to a degree, but on the way down all bets are off, it is a full-fledged shooting gallery. A party of two is ideal, three is OK, four you are pushing your luck. If there is another party on the climb, you might want to try a different day. The rock, when not covered by crap tons of smaller rocks, is relatively supportive. That being said I did have a large flake give on me on the west side of the summit pyramid leaving a couple large gashes in my shin. Tons of loose rock on top of better rock The exposure on the route is pretty manageable, they only real nerve racking spot is just above the rappel, the terrain here is no different than anywhere else, but there is nothing below you making the exposure a little intense. Setting up the rappel The anchor here is a rock knob that seems relatively sturdy for Jack, and it had wire and a couple biners backing it up. We added a couple slings and headed down, a 30M rope will get you to a ledge to down climb from (the same ledge you came up on), a 50M or 60M rope might be able to get you to the snow field (no promises here). Rappelling down The route we took on the face GPS route Here are our stats (Garmin 64s): Waypoints: Leave Crater Mountain Trail: N48.73176, W120.92059 Rappel Knob: N48.76958, W120.95376 Summit: N48.77285, W120.95625 Tracks: http://www.skjos.net/reserved/climbing/jack/GPS/ (after downloading the file delete the .zip file extension from the file name; for some reason I could not get them to download with the .gdb and .gpx file extensions.) Distance, Times, and Vertical: Day 1 Canyon Creek Trailhead to Jerry Lakes: Miles: 8.3 Time: 5:53:33 Vertical: 5,305 Day 2 Jerry Lakes to Summit Round Trip: Miles: 5.7 Time: 10:15:04 Vertical: 4,705 Day 3 Jerry Lakes to Canyon Creek Trailhead: Miles: 8.0 (shaved .3 from our route in) Time: 4:24:45 Vertical: 1,460 Total Miles: 22.0 Vertical: 11,470

I'd give it a class 3/4. It was steep like class 4, but no real pucker factor making it feel more like class 3. The register (in 2009) was in a small brass cylinder about 2" in diameter, and 6" long. Some tweaker probably stole it.

This oughta do it:

How about this link to the whole Logan album: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMN2DoFSWn7ArUjlJIuehkgIA_G0oHriLxUiCU

This is what I remember Logan looking like in 2009, with a summit register: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMN2DoFSWn7ArUjlJIuehkgIA_G0oHriLxUiCU/photo/AF1QipOqWNxOqtTtEXdftNz-UY8VDSmPPJHWSCWCfX0

I did the old chute in 04/2009, it was steep, but nothing a pair of crampons and an ice ax wouldn't get you up. I down climbed it facing in, but my climbing partner plunge stepped it. We had a rope and pickets with us, but didn't feel the need to use them.

We were up there on 6/27-6/28. 7FJ no ice axe or crampons required, unless you head up the quicker gully route, then you will need both. Maude - crampons were required for a small snow patch at the summit. I was on the summit at 6:30am, if you get up there later in the day it may be soft enough to get up without them. Here are some pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/skjos96

You can find a decent used Stihl on craigslist for around $200.

Sweet, thanks for the information. How were snow conditions: Any post-holing, would you recommend snow shows, avalance conditions on the pyramid? I'm looking to head up on the next weather window (this weekendish).

Thanks for the road update, are any of the downed trees super-huge, my 24" bar can get through most stuff, but super-big trees take awhile.

Weather/conditions permitting, I'll be bringing my chainsaw next weekend, hopefully, I won't have to use it and the road is snow and tree free. Trees I can handle, but I would like to know about the snow (if any).

Good call. We canceled our plans for Little Tahoma via Paradise this weekend due to recent avy conditions. We will probably just wait until the White River road opens (5/20) and tackle it at that time. Maybe Shuksan next weekend after everything (hopefully) settles.