Alpine_Junky

thank you KingsMM !!! -Scotty

Howdy all, I've eyed some cliffs near Hoodoo many a time and wondered "Do those things ever ice up?". Was at Cougar (terwilleger) hot springs the other day, good access year round but only 1,700' but with wind off the dam it looked possible that some drips could come in around there. Maybe some spray off the waterfall by the parking lot? Anyway, I live in Central Oregon and I ice climb - so obviously I'm frustrated. Anybody know if it's possible to get to Proxy falls in winter? Everything would be strong cold snap dependent of course but for god sakes... something... anything... maybe I should see about farming in meat locker or something HELP!!! -Scotty ps. yes tumalo, paulina, strawberries... I know... but is there anything else?

I agree, the snow is better at Bachelor, and Bachelor is overall a way better resort than Meadows, but meadows has more pitch right off the main chairs... If you're into graceful high speed cruising on groomers, Bachelor is awesome. If you're looking for trees, Bachelor is awesome. If you're looking for great powder, a consistently ample snowpack, and long fast chairlifts, Bachelor is awesome. Great terrain parks too. Just not a lot of steep skiing... -Scotty

Multipitch: Not a ton, there's multi-pitch stuff at Smith, but nothing over 5 or 6 pitches. The local mountains are volcanic, so the rock is mank, but there's a few multi-pitch routes on Mt. Washington. Skiing at Mt. Bachelor is great... depending on what you're looking for. Great powder, great trees... but it is not steep, not very "colorado-like", Hood has some steeper terrain. Backcountry skiing is all over between .5 hrs to however far you want to drive, ton's. I love Bachelor, consistently the best tree skiing of anywhere I've ever skied. Closest ice climbing spots only come in sometimes, there .5 hrs away. The closest consistent ice is at Lake Tahoe (7hrs) or Lillooet BC (10hrs)... Ice does come in at Hood River (2 - 3 hrs) and the columbia river gorge (3 hrs), Vantage comes in (4.5hrs), Castle Crags comes in (4hrs). There is good alpine ice in the Sisters (.5 hrs) and on Hood (2 hrs) Good granite in the area? No, closest is Castle Crags (4hrs), or City of Rocks (8hrs), there is multi-pitch granite in the Wallowas (4hrs). In summary: you will not find better skiing or climbing here than what you're used too, and the ice will be disappointing without driving a ways... However Bend is a cool place to live, pretty good night-life, less douchebags (I kid the CO'ers... or do I?), the ocean ain't far, Portland, Seattle, and San Francisco are nearby, decent mountain biking, great weather, and plenty to occupy your time. -Scotty

looking more and more like it's going to be N Sister. I'll let you know. The SE ridge looks essentially snow free from town, hoping there's decent cover on the traverse & the alley, but we'll see, I hate fuckin' scree! I'll let you know how it goes, unless I get to go up old Jeffy, just as well if I don't because the N sister season is shutting down pretty soon, Jeff will be open longer. -Scotty

Looking to go up Jeff Sun-Mon, Sat-Sun (with persuation), or push in a day. I'm a WFR, Avy I, strong, lot's of glacier experience, full rock rack, ice tools & pro etc. I've got AT gear and prefer to ski if possible, but hoofing it is fine. As for Rainier I'm looking for qualified partners to do one of these routes: -Tahoma -Kautz -Lib Ridge On Sat-Mon one of these weekends: -June 2 - 4 -June 16 - 18 -June 23 - 25 A strong team of three is ideal for the Tahoma or Kautz, a two-man or 2 two-man teams is ideal for Lib Ridge. I have a few partners in mind already but I'm not sure if the scheduling will work out. Let's do it! -Scotty

Memorial Day weekend approaches... Anybody up for Jefferson on Sun - Mon, Sat Sun (with persuasion), or push in a day? I've got AT gear, or can hoof it. Lot's of glacier experience, full rock rack, ice tools and pro etc. WFR Avy I blah blah blah. Don't care about the route taken but I suppose Jeff Park is ideal. Otherwise I'll be soloing N Sister... again... -Scotty

I was there that day with Jfs1978 and we saw the helicopter from kiss of the lepers buttress. It's rope-de-dope crack 5.8 for sure, which is kinda funky... + smith tuff simply isn't that strong in a lot of places. There was absolutely nothing about the incident in any of the news papers, tv news, or anything else. I didn't find anything on Smithrock.com... I find the lack of coverage strange. In any case I hope that girls is allright... not a bad way to go if she did... -Scotty

Way to go Timmy and Josh, glad to see the locals getting at it. Thanks for photo beta too Timmy... I've got to get in there quick. The tools are coming out this weekend baby! -Scotty

glad to see they fixed the fang problem with the old vipers, they'll work much better with tethers now. Looks like the huge cobra handle of old has been wittled down. Interesting stuff. -Scotty

I know the guy who's was sewn wrong, sounds like that's the only case, bad piece of kit to have problems with. -Scotty

Thanks guys, Planning on bringing skis and full avy gear, hopefully things will settle out a little before then. Timmy didn't you do thielsen with jlag? He seems to recall it being pretty mild. Looks like I'll just take some rock gear, skis, one m axe, one tool, an 8.0 x 60, and avy gear. Looks like we'll have two video cameras so maybe I'll be able to post video later. thanks again, -Scotty

Curious to get some info about thielsen in winter. Road Access? I know the road is plowed to the snow park, not sure if it's all the way to S Diamond Lake (to the trailhead), anybody know? Summit Pinnacle: Rime Ice? Snow? Two tools? Gear (pickets? screws? dig for rock gear? sling natural features? all of the above?). Just what am I getting myself into? -Scotty

Like to get a list going of the best Cali guidebooks. Ideally I'd like something like a Beckey Guide for Northern CA and/or the Sierra Nevada. The name of the climbing region (N CA, Jtree, the valley, sierra, 14ers etc) and the ranking of the books. I've spent way to much money on lame guidebooks. Any and all parts of Cali welcome, I'll get to wherever eventually. Thanks, -Scotty

I'm may be in Portland tomorrow and I'd like to hit the best shops. Is there anything like Second Ascent there? I'm a Northerner that's been transplanted to Bend, can't say all that many postive things about the shops here. I'm looking for ice gear, expedition quality down gear, and 4 season tents. Thanks for the help, -Scotty