jrace2

Trip: Zermatt, Switzerland - Spaghetti Traverse ~ Italian Haute Route Date: 7/21/2011 Trip Report: I just finished an attempt to do the Spaghetti Traverse, which is also known as the Italian Haute Route. The weather in the alps has been a bit wet this summer and we were unable to connect it all, but we did get in some great climbing. I am coming back in two weeks to try again and will post details if we make it. This is a super amazing route with a ton of moderate climbing and the potential to climb 10-12 4000 meter peaks in 4 or 5 days. Link to trip report is: http://mountainschool.blogspot.com/2011/07/zermatt-climbing-trip-report-july-15-20.html All best- John Race

I run a small guide service and have been guiding since 1989, full-time since 1992. I love my job. We get 3 or 4 e-mails most weeks from people wanting to break into guiding. I think the biggest challenge is that the supply of people that want to guide greatly exceeds the number of guiding jobs. After 13 years of guiding and doing OK, I took the plunge and became AMGA certified and eventually IFMGA. I work with many fantastic guides that have never taken an AMGA course and are the best at what they do. That said, it is so wildly competitive that guide services do look more and more for AMGA training and a trajectory leading toward certification. It is not exactly a fair request as the training is expensive, but it is one very practical way that those hiring guides can gauge the commitment level of those applying. When I completed my AMGA training I was surprised to find myself wondering how I managed to guide without incident for the first 13 years of my career, and once the bills were paid I was happy I had put myself through the ego crushing routine of being examined. Without a doubt my certification increased my income drastically and made it easier to sell my services. Choosing to guide is above all a lifestyle decision. Most of the money is in doing very routine trips, being desperately patient, and having an almost saintlike partner if you are planning to be in a relationship. As someone mentioned above, guiding is a good "job", an outside job, but it is usually not climbing per se. The pay is rarely huge, and it took me a good 15 years to feel "established." Those that succeed seem to be able to shrug off difficult clients, challenging employers and move forward. From my perspective being a great climber can make it more difficult to be patient with those that are not, but early on I realized that I was not great, only good enough and very enthusiastic. Good luck! Guiding has provided me with the opportunity to see many places and do many things I never would have had the funds to do otherwise, but it has had plenty of bad days.

Thanks Andrew. As much as anything this is a reminder to make the long drive to Mt. Baker this winter!. I will check it out.

Thanks for this. I am wondering if it is not worth the hassle to lug along the Canon Rebel T1i on expeditions and for closer to home use. I certainly use my Rebel without video capability on enough trips to justify owning it. The goPro has many downsides, but does provide relatively inexpensive action type photos. The G12 looked really cool and I know folks who used these in Tibet for climbing with good results. The flip screen is a downside, so I looked for a G10, and they seem to retail for more than they originally sold for as they are not available. Hmmmmm....

I am looking for a video camera for climbing. I would like something that shoots high quality (i.e. for a web site) video, is durable, somewhat waterproof, and lightweight. This leads me to something like a GoPro, although I don't see myself using the head cam, other than for the occasional good ski line. Here is where things get more difficult. I would also like to do some simple video or people talking, likely with a tripod and the GoPro appears to not have a jack for a microphone. It would be nice to have the option to have some decent sound quality from time to time. This will be used on extended expeditions so it needs to be something where I can charge the battery off a solar system with a USD port. I don't think the flip system will work as I need to be able to pull out the card and add cards as they fill. So he is what I need: Lightweight Battery chargeable from a solar panel (or AA's) Waterproof enough to use in the winter Good sound quality Durable Anybody have the perfect system? Let me know if this is the wring forum for this? John

That was us. You guys looked to be making good progress. What did you guys do that day?

It was hard to pass up. Another friend guided an 80 year old on the North Ridge of Forbidden 2 days before and mentioned that he left things pretty set up on the snow pitches.

Trip: Mt. Buckner - North Face Date: 7/26/2010 Trip Report: If any are interested in current conditions on the north side of Mt. Buckner I posted a trip report here: Mt. Buckner North Face - Trip Report - July 25-27, 2010 http://mountainschool.blogspot.com/2010/07/mt-buckner-north-face-trip-report-july.html This was a guided trip with 2 customers and 1 guide. The route was in really good shape for late July. Gear Notes: Pickets are all that are needed right now. It is nice to have a very small (5-6 pieces) rock rack if you are roping up. You could get away with no rock gear, but there are placements if you are so inclined. Approach Notes: We approached via Boston Basin, crossed over Boston-Sahale Col, traversed onto upper Boston Glacier, and then exited via Horseshoe Basin, and Sahale Arm.

I did this a few years back from Icicle to Cascade Meadows and concluded that it might be "easier" going from North to South. This allows you to go up the any path we have been calling the Swauth which is really quick and straightforward. We are planning to guide this Feb 25-28 and do some exploring along the way. I am hoping more folks will do it so that we can sort out the best possible route. My thought on trying it N to S this time is that you can ski down all the slogging terrain going down Chatter Creek. We are hoping for a tow out. There is a slim chance that a cell phone would work from up high, otherwise the timing is the crux. Any other beta would be great. There are still some really big lines to be had in the right conditions back in there.

We came out Tuesday afternoon. We also parked about 6 miles out from the Cold Springs trailhead. Made it to 9350, but did not summit due to the high winds and new snow of Monday night. From the parking point the road was completely snow covered minus a few spots early on where we needed to walk several hundred of dry road between snow patches. Skiing was excellent from about 7400 to 5600.

Thanks. I called today as well and it sounds like 5 or 6 miles of road are still snow covered. We are going regardless on Sunday as we have 3 days to get up, down, and enjoy some skiing. Details to follow.

Marc- Were you on a sled, or in your vehicle at this point? Thanks

On a minor note: One of my customers had his ski poles taken last weekend from the public shelter at Muir. Overall things seem very, very safe, but on occasion things go missing. I would just cache your gear and trust folks. -John

Thank you Marc, -John

Has anyone made an effort to get into the South side of Mt. Adams yet? I am curious about how far out from the usual parking spot the road is still impassable. Any current info would be appreciated.