Jump to content

mec

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    683

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by mec

    [TR] Quartz Mountain - Training Day 07/14/2018

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted · Edited by mec
    fixing date

    Trip: Quartz Mountain - Training Day

    Trip Date: 07/14/2018

    Trip Report:

     

     

     

    Looking for a long route somewhat close to Seattle, we ran across Training Day in the new Snoqualmie Rock guide by Kurt Hicks. We had never heard of it before, and it sounded like it was just what we were looking for. 13 pitches, with about an hour long approach, and a short drive from Seattle.

    Ornulf and I met up in Issaquah at 5:45, and after a quick drive started hiking at 6:30. After a half hour on the CCC Trail, we turned left and started up hill. There was no trail, but we kept heading upward. The forest was relatively open, with minimal bushwhacking. The last few hundred yards to the base had some bushwhacking, but nothing too obnoxious. 

    The start of the climb was not fully obvious, but it looked like one could take any of a few different paths on the first pitch. we went up the left side of the base, and went just right of a roof. 

    The first few pitches were straight forward, and not too difficult. Then at pitch 4, the difficulty started to increase. As the difficulty increased the number of bolts increased. Any move that was somewhat difficult generally had a bolt right next to it. Some would argue there were too many bolts, and we did not end up clipping all of them, but for those less experienced with slab they will be much appreciated. Pitch 7 was the crux pitch, and was a continuous 5.10a slab, and heavily bolted. This pitch had the 22 bolts. Only downside to this pitch, was that it ended with about 15 feet of pulling on cedar trees to get to the anchor. Pitch 9 was the second crux, with some high steps to get through a couple of small roofs. 

    After pitch 9, the climbing quality decreases as the climb starts to traverse up and left towards the notch. the rock is covered a bit more in moss/lichen and there are more trees to grab/climb through. though getting to the notch is pretty cool, and you get some great views. Plus, after the 13th pitch, the rap line is essentially straight down, and straight forward, with clean rope pulling. only challenge is the ~200m of bushwhacking back to the start. 

    Route finding throughout the climb was straight forward with a few spots where you look around, but then it becomes pretty clear. The descriptions in the guidebook are spot on, though the ratings might be high (but I have mostly been climbing at index), plus some of the lengths in the guidebook seemed to be a bit short. We used 2 60m half ropes, and they were perfect. . There was some run outs on the easier ground but we never felt that we needed more gear/bolts. the guidebook also called for a double rack up to #3. Overall we only placed 6 or 7 pieces throughout the full climb. So, bring a light rack up to #2 (we placed the #3, but you could have placed the #2 if needed). 

    Overall it was a fun day out. I definitely recommend the route to others looking for a long climb off the beaten path. IMG_2495.thumb.jpg.355cea836e64ba95404f8a9442cce129.jpg

    looking up at the start of P1. we went up here and right of the roof. 

    IMG_2465.thumb.jpg.66fa5105a4a94477bf03bfa35ed6cac6.jpg

    top of p1, looking up.

    IMG_2467.thumb.jpg.05cac55c0ecb5449f50cd77b56fcfbdb.jpg

    looking down p3

    IMG_2472.thumb.jpg.6f67db9aa220480d47c316d8cd7b223b.jpg

     looking up p6, which goes up and left.

    IMG_2473.thumb.jpg.d582f3d23ada4098b5b194f476ac5bd8.jpg

    looking up p8

    IMG_2479.thumb.jpg.1da27409d9bb789602158a6cc34893f1.jpg

    Ornulf getting ready to pull on the cedars at the top of p7.

    IMG_2484.thumb.jpg.2b70757f9fbe93ff48afafd9d90545a5.jpg

    looking across p13 towards the notch and the great view. p13 is a short traverse that lines you up for the plumb rap line 

    IMG_2488.thumb.jpg.cfcefc25e3dbc4f757d81fbe20fb8a2b.jpg

    looking up towards the notch, 2 raps down.

    Gear Notes:
    22 draws, and a light rack up to #3

    Approach Notes:
    The new Snoqualmie Rock description is pretty solid. There is no trail up to the base. After you start up the hill off the CCC Trail, just keep going up and join the drainage and go up until the rock is there on your left, and bushwhack a short way to the base

    • Snaffled 1

    half/twin ropes??

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I am curious what everyone's thoughts are on half/twin ropes for trad climbing. I have used them in areas like Darrington, and it was great not to have to haul up a second line to rap. I have a trip to Yosemite planned, and I am wondering if half ropes will be just as good down there? Much of my targeted climbs in the valley are steeper than darrington, but still requiring double rope raps.

    (should I bring half ropes, or leave them behind and bring two singles?)

    Rideshare from Seattle to Smith this weekend

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Anyone heading to Smith or Oregon this weekend from the Seattle area? I am looking for a ride to The Dalles, OR (or anywhere relatively close such as Hood River, Goldendale, etc). (can't climb this weekend, but need to pick up a car from my parents). Leaving Friday night after 5, or anytime Saturday works best for me.

    I can help pay for gas.

    drop me a pm.

    Witch Doctor Wall

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    great, thanks for the advice. i was up there about a half dozen years ago, but right after I got there, it started to rain and did not let up. So I hiked back down...

    I am surprised the dreamer trail is bad. last time i was there a couple or three years ago, it was in good shape except a couple of places going up the drainage... is that washed out even more now?

     

    I'll keep an eye out for the sunglasses... :)

    Witch Doctor Wall

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Anyone been up there this year? Looking at doing either Voodoo or Solaris (or both), and curious what the condition of the trail is, and if there is anywhere to find water near the base? (or do we have to hike it all in...)

     

    thanks,

×
×
  • Create New...