danielloveland

Bill, what drill are you currently using? Just wondering. I have been using my hand drill but this takes some serious time. I have been a little busy with the kiddos and work so I have not been out climbing, but I plan to do some route clean up soon. Have a good one.

IF YOU ARE REALLY BAD *SS YOU CAN "FREE" THE POISON OAK WITH YOUR BARE HANDS USING NO GEAR, LEAVING NO TRACE. YOU COULD ALSO AID IT AND USE YOU SOME KILLER SPRAY TO FREE TO POISON OAK. IT'S YOUR CHOICE.

Bill, who is this guy in your photos - The one with the fuzzy white hair? He was climbing with a harness made out of webbing. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/medium/Racking_for_the_3rd_rail.jpg This is the guy I met at the butte a few weeks ago. Your right we have never met. Sure we will sometime at the butte. Take care. Dano

Bill, I have met your before. I took a look at your photos and we met about 2.5 weeks ago at the ledge of "Fandango" I used your rope to climb the ledge/anchor. You guys were climbing that 5.8 gully inbetween fandando and superman. I climbed on your rope and then you pulled my rope from superman and we traded ropes on the ledge. I remember this very well becuase we could not hear each other and I got the feeling you thought I might be trying to swindle your rope or something. Anyways, I am sure I will run into guys soon. See ya at the butte. Dano

Bill, you are right about toothpick it should be left alone it is so nice and clean for a butte climb. I can't believe Mcgown free climbed those routes. That is really nuts those guys were very bold. I have the old yellow book that was one of his and he drew in all these crazy aid routes on mean street. Is the tree you use for the anchor on white rabbit free of poison oak? I went to hit it two weeks ago and it looked nasty. It is really a shame the bolts have been cut over there. Do you think anyone would mind if we placed 2 bolts on tiger eye 10/b, below Flight of the Seventh Moon? It would be fun to sport the whole route from the bottom up, seeing as there are tons of bolts on seventh moon and the 5.8 to the right of it. You could give it that Smith Rock feel(probably going to get hammered for that one). I find it funny that everyone looks down on bolting at the butte when plenty of routes are bolted at broughton. The ethic at broughton seems to be that you have to lead with gear about 20 ft and then you hit bolts at the crux moves. I think more of this ethic should be applied to the butte. More people could do mixed trad/sport at the butte. Dano

Bill, please put in more anchors, nice work on dreamweaver with the epoxy. It looks likes some hicks have been whipping beer bottles at them lately. I have been climbing at the butte since 92' (back when there was bolts on bite the bullet), It is nice to see people giving this place some love. It would be great if we had better top anchors so we could climb more climbs during our evening sessions, plus some of the anchors are getting old. Currently it is a pain the @ss to setup webbing anchors on some the climbs and there is a lot of poison oak around some of the key trees you need to use. I say we should put in so many new anchors that whomever is chopping them cannot keep up. Also I think if we locate some of the anchors further over the edge of the climbs so you have to repel off of a tree to get to the bolt anchor that would keep them from getting chopped and keep the newbies from getting over their heads. We are going to try and clean up Ghost Rider and Chinese Finger Torture in the next week. These climbs look great but have been really overgrown. It would also be nice to see a bolt anchor on "close to the edge" and "toothpick" as you need so much webbing to setup this anchor and it doesn't seem like it gets much action. Plus it would make it more efficient because you could repel from the tree and then setup your anchor and climbing rope and then finish repelling to the ledge and everything would be ready to go. Just my two cents. Bill, I would like to climb with you out at the butte one day. When do you climb? Maybe we have already met. I own the snowboard and skateboard shop on 72nd and Sandy. If you are ever headed to the butte stop by our shop and say hi.