BobKoen

One other thing that should be mentioned. We got a very expensive parking ticket and almost got our car towed while doing these climbs. We parked at the wide spot on the road on the eastbound side across from the descent to the log crossing (as the climbing guide suggests). Then while descending from the climbs and dealing with stuck ropes in the dark and other minor difficulties we saw a cop car park behind our vehicle with full flashing lights, but no sirens. Then a while later (while still trying to retrieve our ropes) we saw a tow truck pull up. It was starting to look like our mini-epic with the ropes would turn into a major epic involving a hike back into Lilloet. Fortunately Graham managed to get down to the vehicle before it was towed and sweet talk the cop into only giving him the $109 ticket rather than the $500 ticket plus having the vehicle towed. In short, don't park on the road. There is a pullout several hundred meters to the west on the westbound side. Use this, or the pullout near the bridge to the east.

My memory has deteriorated to the point where I am now fully qualified to hide my own Easter eggs, so I couldn't figure out exactly what Darren and I climbed in relation to the pictures that PaulB has posted. So I went back on Sunday with Graham Rowbotham to do this climb again and sort things out. Darren and I stopped at the top of Paul's P2, so we must have climbed the narrow gully at the bottom in 2 pitches. Why didn't we go any higher? Dunno. You can't see more ice from the top of that pitch, so we must have incorrectly assumed that we were done. Too bad, but good for PaulB and party. Graham and I then continued on to the top of the upper pitch that Paul and party climbed. The pool had iced over so we got up into the creekbed above, but it looked like it would be a long walk before finding another bit of significant ice, and we were out of time, so we came down. But who knows, I was wrong before. I have these observations about this climb: - It is very scenic. - There is no view of the highway or noise from the road. - There are 3 main pitches. Pauls P2 (grade 3, 1/2 pitch), P4 (grade 2, 3/4 pitch), and the top pitch. - The top pitch goes at grade 3 on the right, 3+ up the middle, and 4- on the left, in the conditions that we found it. - There are quite a few other short and moderate steps that some will solo and some will belay. - The route safely supports several parties due to the walking between pitches. - It makes for a great day out on moderate ice.