JonMain
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Posts posted by JonMain
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check this site for avvy condtions in the Pacific NW
NWAC Detailed Forecasts http://www.nwac.noaa.gov/products/SABSEA
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Why does a leg-shell need to be so breathable. I always wear my Gore-Tex bibs on the bottom, and don't have problems, yet I have problems with the Alchemy jacket not being so breathable. I find I don't generate that much heat/sweat from your legs (but then I am a relatively unsweaty type).
The Alchemy is not light, nor packable. Offerings from Arc'teryx and Cloudveil (and probably Mammut, etc) made out of Schoeller extreme (vs Gore windstopper on the Alchemy) are more breathable and can save 1/4 lb weight with a hood!
Alchemy = 22 oz, no hood, not breathable
Cloudveil Icefloe = 19 oz, nice hood with extra windproof lining in it, breathable throughout and more packable.
Your choice.
I generate a considerable amount of moisture in my lower body, particularly in my groin area. Hardshells just can't vent moisture fast enough and quickly become saturated.
I still like my Alchemy jacket after a few months of owning it. It breathes well enough to keep me dry when I'm working hard, blocks all wind and is much ligher than my previous jacket. It does have three issues: First, I'm a short broadshouldered guy and I have problems with jackets either being too long in the sleeves or too tight in the chest the Alchemy is no exception. Second, it lacks of a hood. Third, and more importantly, it doesnt provide enough warmth when I stop moving - I've heard this from others who have Windstopper garments as well.
As for the jackets you mention, there is one major problem with the Scholler Dryskin Extreme: It blocks only 70% of wind. It is a great fabric for mild-weather or when there is no wind. Any high winds, so common in mountains, and it won't provide adequate protection. I'd rather have the windproofness of Scholler WB-400 even if the breathability is reduced. From reports made by people using it, WB-400 is very nearly as breathable as the Dryskin Extreme anyway.
I've ordered a pair of Cold Fusion pants from Beyond Fleece. If I like them I'll sell the Alchemy and get the Cold Fusion jacket.
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Check these out Ibex Guide Lite Pants. These have had good reviews, though the site I'm listing may have an Ibex bias.
The Black Diamond BDV pants are made of Scholler Dynamic but are the same weight as the Ibex, have non-articulated construction and far fewer features.
Looking at the Arcteryx Gamma LT pants I noticed something interesting. The New Gamma LT pants are only 10 ounces, a nearly 6 ounce reduction in weight as compared to the Older Gamma LT pants. I'm assuming this weight reduction is due to the use of Tweave Durastretch Lightweight in the new version as opposed to the standard weight Tweave used previously. Does anyone know how the new fabric performs? The only hangup I see from the armchair is that the new version is offered only in black and grey, whereas the older version was offered in black, khaki, etc.
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I'm looking for a pair of pants for mountaineering - long climbs in the snow. My primary emphasis is on breathability, followed by wind and waterproofness. Something that is comfortable during both cold winter mornings and sunny spring afternoons is ideal.
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What are your favorites?
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I've been having good results from my polyester base layer and softshell Alchemy jacket. It vents moisture remarkably well, stays comfortable under a wide range of conditions, and is very light. When I stop for an extended period of time I pop on my Coumbia jacket with fleece liner. This jacket is pretty heavy so I'll replace it with a lighter alternative at some point. Suggestions?
Below the waist I'm wearing a North Face Mountain Bib. It kicks ass for what it is, a tough hard shell bib. It does not, however, vent moisture adequately during ascents. I'm looking at either the MH Alchemy Pant or the GoLite Propel Pant as a softshell bottom. I'm leaning toward the Propel because of it's substantially lighter weight. Anyone have experience using either of these bottoms?
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Nice night pics. What camera?
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Thinkin of doing some exploring on Hood Saturday. I summited last month and was thinkin of a having more relaxed day poking around on the mountain and enjoying the scenery. Let me know if you are interested.
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I've worn the Alchemy jacket while mountainclimbing a few times and have never had problems with moisture build up. What base layer were you using? I use a single medium weight polyester base layer.
Cheers!
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Nice pics, what camera?
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the idea of most of these is that they are single layer garments...
for instance you dont see someone wearing three fleeces one over another or with two goretex jackets layered...
why exactly do you want to do something like this anyway?
The Transition is intended as a base layer garment although it can be used as a single layer in warmer temps. I'd layer the two so that each component of my system has more functionality. I want to keep bulk to a minimum. Fleece would suck under the Alchemy jacket (which I already have) since it would be bulky, slow the movement of moisture, etc. The Transition shirt seems better since it is very thin and light - more freedom of movement, better movement of moisture, etc. Also, it could fucntion on its own as an outer layer in warmer weather or during periods of very high activity. Bascially, I would like to have more flexibility built into my layering system.
I've been wearing Alchemy jacket with a single synthetic base layer. The freedom of movement, wind protection and breathability kick ass but this combination it just isn't quite warm enough. So, I'm looking for something more insulative to put underneath. Whatever this extra layer is has to be thin and highly breathable. The Transition base layer seems like a good option.
I think this is called "the paralysis of analysis".Put your clothes on and get out there.
I haven't been waiting till my layering system is optimized to go out. Every time I get back from an outing I take stock of what worked, what didn't and then think of possible ways to improve. It's an ongoing process. Next time I go out I'm going to double up my base layer and see how that goes.
Cheers
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Is there a downside to wearing multiple layers of clothing containing membranes (such as Gore Windstopper) in a layering system? For example, wearing a windshirt such as the MH Transition base layer combined with the MH Alchemy jacket. Such a combination would seem to be highly versatile since both layers have a high degree of fucntionality. I'm wondering, however, if there are drawbacks to having 2 or more membrane-based layers in the layering system. A possible drawback would be decreased breathability, which messes with the whole point of having a softshell layer like the Alchemy jacket in the first place.
Thanks for the input.
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I personally wouldn't take the variation. That photo just happens to show it. I posted the pic because someone wanted to know what the catwalk was. My question about the runout is a completely seperate issue and has to do with the route marked in red only. If the runouts are basically long snow slopes I'd feel more comfortable bringing someone less experienced along.
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The green section in the pic below is the Catwalk.
(Taken from http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/78/object_id/2)
I want to know if the route has good runouts in its steeper sections if you avoid the rock on the ridge and follow the route indicated by the red line above. Is this the case?
Cheers
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As I understand it, the rock is the only element of the route with exposure. If you stay to the west side (climber's left) of the ridge on the snow it's basically a slog with a few steeper sections but long runouts. Right?
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I haven't had issues using my ax with the yucky cut-off shaft spike in a stake position. But then maybe I didn't meet the right kind of very hard snow.
I was on ice at the time. Gave the anchor position a try but the pick was very dull and wouldnt bite... it mostly shattered the ice.
Stake postion or cross body were the options.Actually if I was going to be buying a general mountaineering axe now I would get a DMM Cirque or Grivel air Tech Racing with the slightly curved shaft. When going dagger up a long snowslope your hands stay dry almost like you had Quarks
Dru, not too sure how often I'll need to use the pick. Most of my climbing will be in the cane and stake posistions for awhile. I looked at that Cirque, badass to be sure, but wouldn't the rubber grip and curved shaft make it a bit unweildy when using the spike end?
Cheers!
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I read an ax test that mentionned the Grivel you're showing and while it was the most comfortable to hold, the author mentionned that the molded cover didn't stand up much to hammering the ax into hard snow... (No surprise, just something you might not be thinking of.)
No, I hadn't thought of that, thanks.
I've been doing alpine climbs, Oregon volcanos mostly. I've been using the 'cane' and 'stake' positions mostly since I haven't been on anything that was much more 45 degrees yet. For that reason I'm partial to the more aggressive spike like that on the Eagle or Shuksan. The Snowalker and Raven spikes look short and fat compared to the Eagle or Shuksan. Any thoughts on that? Perhaps I'm using a stake position in a situation where a low dagger would be more appropriate.
Example:
When I did Hood this week I accidentally chose the left gully after reaching the top of the hogsback instead of the correct gully to the right (the actual 'Pearly Gates'). The gully quickly narrowed into a 45ish degree ice ramp a few feet wide with baseball sized chunks whizzing by - something I'd never dealt with before. In a pinch I used the stake position while bringing my feet up and occasionally chopping steps. Dull rental crampons and axes suck! It was sketchy, now I know why everyone goes to the right...
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I'm looking for an ice axe for general mountaineering. No ice climbing! I've been looking at the Grivel Eagle, BD Raven, and the SMC Shuksan. Anyone use these? Comments please.
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What's the length on the axe?
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Lookin for a pardner to hit the south side of Mt. Hood Thursday morning. I just can't let this beautiful weather pass by! Contact me ASAP for some climbing!
Yes, I know this is an 'easy' route. Help a noob out!
I'm not above bribing with post-climb beer. -
thanks for the beta. lookin at taking a party of 4-6 up on Saturday. cheers!
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Is the schrund on the Hogsback still open?
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When I was at Dutchman Flat last week there signs prohibiting overnight camping and parking after 6PM.
Pros & Cons of Layering with Laminated Garments
in Newbies
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You are now carrying 26 oz instead of 19 oz. (Cloudveil Icefloe = 19 oz + Mont-Bell, 7 oz) Now compare to 22 oz Alchemy. Hmmm...