Just wanted to put my 2 cents in. I was on liberty ridge during this last incident, we passed Cahill and the other groups about 1-2 hours before helicopters began circling. I would have to say the conditions are aweful up there. Super soft snow below thumb rock and mostly ice starting about 500' above thumb rock. I witnessed an avalanche start under another party's feet below thumb rock which entrailed enough snow to end up about 15' wide, they were lucky not to go down with it, I was scared to cross the slope. At thumb rock, rocks peirced the tent of the same party, I had my helmet close by. 15 people at TR that night, 1 w/ a sapce blanket, lol. Anyhow, above TR the snow was nice to the left, but once the ridge was regained it was all ice all day, need I say it sucked and took us an extremely long time, being very careful. The ice to the left and below of the Black Pyramid was black ice, virually inpenetrable, I had to cut steps with my adze. We went far left at the top and managed the bergschrund with relative ease, only a few vertical moves, but still nothing but ice until the final steps to the top.
With that said, this climb was only the 2nd time I have ever strapped on crampons, and although I was spooked, I mananged fairly well. You just have to respect the mountain, it is the minute you don't respect it that it kills you. Not to disrespect anyone, accidents are always tragic, but could it be that after 25 ascents/attempts of rainier maybe you lose some of that fear and concentration that drives your steps and tools in deep? I don't know. But I would say to you fellas who have trips planned that you should be fine, just be careful. Liberty Ridge definitly isn't technically that hard, but it is long and mistakes equate to death. There was a party attempting the curtis ridge during the same period, this is definitly a harder route.
Also, about the helicopters. They were coming and going all day, but obly the rescue copter and the blackhawk were close to the route, the news helicopter stood off, I actually never saw it. Anyhow, good luck to you all. Be safe and my regards to Cooley and Cahill's family.
